Pixies
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Posts posted by Pixies
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Could it be an exit pupil thing? I guess if your focal ratios have all been similar, the same EP focal length would mean a similar exit pupil. This would affect the sky brightness and, if the exit pupil, wasn't too large, would help with astigmatism?
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4 minutes ago, KevS said:
I dread to think what the outcome would be if I plotted an expense/usage graph on XL to derive £/hr for AP and astronomy in general. I have purchased some comparatively expensive cycles over the years, but at least I can use them when it's cloudy.🙄 Having said that I feel a new camera coming on🤣
I see a lot of references to bikes. Is there a correlation between astronomy and bikes? (Visual vs Astrophotography) VS (road vs MTB)?
Anyway - back to Dannomiss' last question...
8 hours ago, Dannomiss said:The 3 locking screws at the back of the telescope are loose - is that normal?
You mean the 3 primary mirror collimation locking screws? There appears to be 2 schools of thought. I guess most would say you need to tighten them up once you have collimated the primary with the 3 adjusting screws. However, they can throw out the collimation slightly. The other school says don't bother with them if you are happy collimating the primary at each use.
I'm in the first camp (although a newbie). You can see how they alter the collimation if you are a less than very gentle. I treat them as the final stage of collimation - like a fine-tune. However, don't tighten them too much, as they will just take over collimation duties from the main adjusters.
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12 minutes ago, John said:
If it gets a real clout the finder mount could possibly twist the tube wall ? - I've seen quite a few newtonian tubes where that has happened and the tube is slightly deformed where the finder mount shoe screws onto it as a result. One of the reasons that I remove my finders when the scope is not in use.
OK - you've persuaded me to see how it goes removing it!
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Just now, Stardaze said:
I'm still getting used to mine and the overall FOV. Have got really used to the Telrad for the most part
Yep - I've got to find room for that as well!
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10 minutes ago, Stardaze said:
That's a monster, which one is it?
I bought one of these and just used the central point and one of the screw points from existing, which is secure enough for my SW 9x50 RACI: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/finders/baader-universal-quick-release-finder-shoe-base.html
but from Astro Buy & Sell
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3 minutes ago, Waldemar said:
pick the telescope up in such a way that the finder is closest to your body. In that way the chances of bumping it are minimal.
Except with my head!
Seriously, thanks everyone. I'll just have to try to avoid being my usual clumsy self!
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Hi,
My new finderscope has arrived and it is considerably larger than the little plastic 6x30 that came with the Bresser dob.
Up to now, I've been lifting the scope in and out the back door with finder attached, and keeping it in a quiet corner of a room when not in use - with finder attached. However, I'm now nervous I'm going to whack the finder {on the door | with my head | with a small child} when moving it outside. I'm loath to take it off for storage and realign it each time, though.
Does anyone have a cunning solution they use to add some kind of protection to the finder? I'm thinking of trying to fashion something out of the various bits of plastic packing material I have knocking around the house just now.
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2 minutes ago, Barry-W-Fenner said:
That's interesting. The scope was out for about 30mins approx cooling before I started viewing, Perhaps it wasn't quite at the optimal temperature.
I have seen that spike on my 8" dob after 30 minutes, but gone at 60.
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I've seen that extra diagonal spike when the tube hasn't cooled completely.
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On 13/06/2020 at 17:56, x6gas said:
+1 for a RACI finder... it's just so much easier when the image in the finder is the right way up! I must say that I find an illuminated finder invaluable too - even though my skies aren't jet black I do struggle to see the crosshairs sometimes. Having tried very many finders including Telrads, red dots, straight throughs of various kinds, a 9 x 50 illuminated crosshair RACI is the only finder I will ever need.
How do you find lining it up when you first start? With a straight-through, I keep both eyes open and usually find the starting target that way. I assume with a RACI, you will need to sight the whole tube in the right direction first? I'm just about to replace a rubbish little straight finder with a big illuminated RACI, and have bought a Telrad to accompany it. It's an 8" dob.
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6 minutes ago, Don Pensack said:
--get rid of the 1.25" adapter that you now use and instead use a tall 1.25" adapter like the Baader Click-Lock, or an Antares Twist-Lock, or something with at least 10mm of height above the focuser.
Baader Click-Lock on sale in the For Sale section just now. Spooky!
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New finder to replace the cheap plasticky one that comes with the Bresser Dob. With this and the new Telrad, nothing will escape my gaze..... mwahahahah!
Just need to get them both fitted. What was the Synta/Vixen finder shoe that a few folks here recommended to replace the Bresser shoe?
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New finder!
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Here is the sticky thread with various SkySafari observing lists:
There are many directly available within the app, under the Observing Lists 'online repository'.
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11 minutes ago, Dannomiss said:
Looks like there's one for £6.49 and £18.99
I'd say go with Plus.
Pro gives you "Astronomy League Supernova and Quasar Database" plus purchase options fro some big databases. The comparison chart is here: https://www.skysafariastronomy.com/
the free one doesn't give you teh POV stuff. Neither does it have the observing lists, which are REALLY useful!
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12 minutes ago, Dark Vader said:
You go to 'Observe' -> 'Equipment',then add your scope, bins, EPs, etc.
Then 'Observe' -> 'Scope display', and add theFOV indicator from the list you created above.
Yep, that's the one.... 😁
DV
Had some coffee now? 😉
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On 14/06/2020 at 11:17, Dannomiss said:
I didn't no. Not sure I would be able too with my eyes unfortunately which is a shame, but once I have telescope that will help... But it maybe also because I wasn't looking for them, so will try again for sure 😊😁
But I am Pleased with the 10x50s and even in light polluted area its amazing how much more stars I can see with them as opposed to just looking with naked eye
The first time I saw them, I wasn't looking for them and I thought they were some kind of reflection problem with the binoculars. If you are doing it hand-held, they can be hard to make out. If you can get the bins stable on something (tripod especially) you should see them pretty clearly on 10x50s
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Ha! I know all about trying to find the section to display the FOV on the screen. It took me ages to find it! You go to 'Observe' -> 'Equipment', then add your scope, bins, EPs, etc.
Then 'Observe' -> 'Scope display', and add the FOV indicator from the list you created above.
Now you can also use 'Observe' -> 'Scope display' to select which FOV indicators to display on the starfield. Note - you will need to select 'Show even if not connected to telescope'. You can also add Telrad circles, which is very helpful for starhopping (if you have a Telrad, obviously).
Here's my display with Telrad circles (red) and the FOV of my 18mm Starguider on a 8" Bresser Dob:
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I learnt the sky before having a telescope mainly with binoculars (that and growing up as a kid in an area with reasonably dark skies). But if you can afford a reasonable pair of 10x50 bins, it'll give you a head-start, especially if you suffer from light pollution. When I say reasonable, £50 is more than enough.
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Hi Khalid.
This place is a wealth of help and information, as I'm sure you are aware, of you've already been browsing through the posts.
I bet thE western Sahara has some dark skies!
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As an aside... from a Premier drum fan.
The Premier Resonator was produced from mid-late 70s to the 80s. The shell is 3-ply birch (with reinforcement rings) and used a thin inner liner (separated from the main shell with a air-gap). Any pre 80s drum shell will likely be 3-ply with reinforcement rings. More modern shells have many more ply without reinforcements and are generally heavier. So if you are looking for lighter shells, then earlier drum kits are what you would be after.
Anyway - a Premier Resonator dob. Clem Burke would approve!
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15 hours ago, JG777 said:
They are not quite the same thing
https://www.chemicals.co.uk/blog/what-is-the-difference-between-distilled-water-and-deionised-water
But for cleaning mirrors they are totally interchangeable and will achieve the same result. Deionized seems to be cheaper and easier to find, just don't drink it.
As a long-term source of fluid, it's not very good for you! But for the occasional sip, it'll be ok 🤮
QuoteIt was thought that low-mineral water acts on osmoreceptors of the gastrointestinal tract, causing an increased flow of sodium ions into the intestinal lumen and slight reduction in osmotic pressure in the portal venous system with subsequent enhanced release of sodium into the blood as an adaptation response. This osmotic change in the blood plasma results in the redistribution of body water; that is, there is an increase in the total extracellular fluid volume and the transfer of water from erythrocytes and interstitial fluid into the plasma and between intracellular and interstitial fluids. In response to the changed plasma volume, baroreceptors and volume receptors in the bloodstream are activated, inducing a decrease in aldosterone release and thus an increase in sodium elimination.
https://www.who.int/water_sanitation_health/dwq/nutrientschap12.pdf
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2 minutes ago, johninderby said:
A Lunt wedge, a Badder Hyperion eyepiece and a couple of Baader adapters.
and a partridge in a pear tree...
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I have you now...
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So glad I bought a new telescope....
in Getting Started With Observing
Posted
If it's cloudy, now's the time to learn. And if the locking screws are loose, then it will probably need a quick tune up.
Plenty of expertise on here. I've found the following 2 resources were excellent:
https://garyseronik.com/a-beginners-guide-to-collimation/
http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/
And I hope it goes without saying.. Keep fingers away from the secondary mirror surface. I always wondered with these open heritage designs, how easy it would be for someone to mistakenly get a fingerprint on it?