dunners19871

yeah, i was hoping there might be a common thread size for which there is an off-the-shelf adapter. looking at preciseparts.com, they can make one, but its $170. FLO have an adapter for the Baader focuser to the RC6 and its £30 haha ideally I want something that price 

14 minutes ago, Coco said:

Get your local engineering shop to make one, or email https://moonrakertelescopes.co.uk/contact.html  and ask to make an adapter.

problem is, i dont know what size thread the focuser has, so don't know what to be asking for

thanks 

matt 

Hi All,

I have a strange one, that im really hoping someone can help with

I am looking to use my focuser from the Orion ED80T CF on my StellaLyra RC6, as the stock focuser on the RC6 is total garbage and ideally, I don't want to buy a new focuser. 

I saw the Baader Steeltrack focuser that is for refractors, has an adapter to fit the M90 thread on the RC6, so I am hoping that there is some other adapter to attach the focuser I already have

The issue I have now is I don't know what thread is on the Orion scope and Orion themselves have no idea what thread it is... If anyone can help with this, I would be so grateful. Really want the RC6 going for galaxy season and really don't want to spend £330 on a new focuser haha

thanks 

matt 

8 hours ago, michael8554 said:

Why still Red ? Well the sensor is now mono, but the processing is still RGB, and is applying an appropriate White Balance.

A Custom White Balance should correct the caste.

Michael

Thanks Ill give that a go  makes sense.  

do you have any idea on what might have caused the cross? i assume i've touched something i shouldn't have but knowing what is the tricky bit. Now i have got a sensor to work mono modded, i want to get it spot on... well as spot on as you can, trashing a perfectly good camera 😜 

Thanks Michael.

Matt 

Hi

I recently tried mono modding my 700D... that sensor is dead now. I think i damaged the blue data bus getting the glass off, which seems to be the main issue with that camera and the 600D. I then got a 450D as the glass looked like it pretty much drops off those, which it did, happy days.

I removed the CFA using glass polish and a cotton swab, wrapped some cotton around a toothpick to get closer to the edge, but wanted to keep a good distance from the bus and gold pins.

i have attached my result and have  a few questions maybe someone can help with

1 is it meant to be red? i have seen other pics like this but as there is not matrix shouldn't it be grey? is there still a layer to polish off? 

2. there seems to be a cross of dead pixels that has appeared, any ideas on what could have caused this? 

3. the image is combined with flats, which i thought would remove the cross and the dust, but both are still there. any ideas on why that might be

Thanks in advance, and for all the previous posts, its a really interesting topic :) 

cheers 

matt 

Hi all,

I am hoping someone might be able to help with a possible way to shoot dark and bias frames on a DSLR (canon 700D) without the need to cover the scope  or camera, ideally using APT scripts 

My thinking is that the camera, has a noise reduction mode where it will take the light shot, then with the shutter closed it will take a dark frame and subtract it from the light. So could you take a series of dark frames on ATP and lock the shutter down?

If anyone knows I would love to know. Would be great to automate the lights, park the scope and have it run darks and bias, without the need to go out to it and cap up at 3.-4 in the morn 

Thanks 

Matt 

@astro_pics_uk