daslolo
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Posts posted by daslolo
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47 minutes ago, KevS said:
How about a hydraulic ram mounted vertically on the pier.
Why double acting?
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5 hours ago, Davey-T said:
I made mine from 8 inch square tube mounted on 3" angle iron, easier to engineer than round tube.
I rises up a foot, this is governed by the size and throw of the actuator, the difference between it fully down and fully up before the outer tube looses overlap, any higher would require a complicated triple tube arrangement.
Dave
Got a photo?
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I'm embarking on the same adventure.
Here is the plan:
Pier made of 2 tubes . The Host is 6" with an ID that matches the OD of the smaller tube which is a roughly 5"
Smaller tube attached 3" inside to a 12" linear actuator, these are narrow enough to fit in the 6" host tube.
There will be some leeway, this is handled by 2 screws welded to the 5". The pass through a slit in the 6", tighten by bolted handles
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On 24/06/2011 at 12:04, Bizibilder said:
The advantage of a bolted down steel pier is that you can move/remove/modify it quite easily. Concrete is pretty much permanent. In terms of "strength" there is not much between the two if properly built.
My own steel pier was made (welded) by the local steel fabricator - I just drilled the holes and shaped the plates (as I have access to machine tools). All the steel (offcuts) and welding came in at around £70 if I remember correctly.
70 GBP!? damn that's cheap, care to show photos and dimensions?
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On 25/01/2018 at 17:00, John said:
I'd steer clear of Tele Vue eyepeices if they don't suit you though. There are other decent options around
Do you have a list?
ES82 are uneven in quality.
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awesome test Don, thank you.
unacceptable for photo but maybe ok for visual, which requires other lenses to move the eyepiece off to the side
a guy on CN ran raytracing in OSLO and found an ok solution for about 60$: two meniscus
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Gorgeous composite
Mind your crop frame in the last swirl
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On 16/06/2019 at 02:34, Miguel1983 said:
That is the Hyperion 21mm on there, gives me 44x and a nice overview of the Sun
Which website do you make these images in?
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what's the field stop mm on the 16mm?
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ok, I guess they calculate viewing as a function of jet stream speed
it's very useful, thanks Mark
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ok im looking out of the window, it is overcast, the site confirms 3 layers and yet it calculates a viewing of 1.5 arcseconds, the same value tomorrow with no clouds
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i'm in an area where cloudless sky doesn't always mean clear view because of air current above and moisture which the weather app doesn't account for
do you folks know of an app that gives a viewing index of the location?
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On 28/02/2020 at 04:13, Ships and Stars said:
Kasai Widebino
svony makes clones of these - amazing comfort!
i think it's the zero eye relief
do you guys know a binoviewer or even binoscope setup that matches this comfort?
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On 27/02/2020 at 11:44, PeterW said:
no eye relief
god i hate long eye relief
i have a pair of 26* 2x42 no eye relief and that makes them so comfortable, just plop them on my eyes and they become an extension
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3 minutes ago, Philip R said:
Hi @daslolo and a late welcome to SGL.
thanks mate!
4 minutes ago, Philip R said:Have you seen/watched this
yes, it's about deforking, what i want is dovetailing that fork mount, to put other otas on it
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I had a 9.25 ages ago, very solid mount, my eye wasn't as discerning
new lx65 - stellar optics, garbage mount and software.
Based on this large sample base I'd go new Meade optic and some other mount
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I see threads on deforking an OTA but I'm curious about dovetailing a Nexstar 11 fork.
Has anyone done it?
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On 10/04/2012 at 05:13, laser_jock99 said:
drill & tap
how do you drill and tap the tube without leaving aluminium shavings in the tube?
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I've tried another combination and couldn't even get focus. It's so funny how the 120mm Orion has tons of back focus but not enough front focus (is it a thing? when the focuser is all the way retracted inside the tube). I'd pull out my saw if I were sure to keep it.
What is the best combination of OTA, bino and eyepiece to get a nice wide AFOV through a Quark?
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Got it, and I found out the eye relief becomes insanely long so if I can find or make a cheap telecentric I'll do that.
6 hours ago, Merlin66 said:Measure the free diameter of the Barlow lens, draw on a card a circle twice this diameter, hold the card behind the Barlow pointed towards the Sun, when the image fills the circle, the distance from the Barlow lens to the card is the focal length. Works for all negative lens.
This is fun, sun away for a few more days so let me try the 200W desk lamp. Thrice the diameter for a 3X barlow?
focal length is about 132mm
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18 hours ago, Stu said:
At higher powers the mag is just too high so I'm not surprised you get a blurred image
Is this blurry because of atmospheric conditions?
10 hours ago, Louis D said:I use the nosepiece from a Meade 140 2x Barlow screwed into the front of the binoviewer's nosepiece to reach focus with a 3x magnification factor
how do you get x3 with a x2 barlow?
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On 02/03/2020 at 22:23, Stu said:
It's actually Baader Zeiss Mark IV on the left, the right are some supercharged TS ones, work very well too.
Very similar look to the Denkmeiers, I was told the Mark 5 were very good.
Does the size of the prism matter if you are looking for wide AFOV?
On 03/03/2020 at 00:24, Space Hopper said:Whats your current scope and kit setup ?
Today it's an Orion 120 with a Quark. The binos I am likely to keep are the Celestron.
The current eyepieces are 33mm I think, very simple, open glass. When I add a 2x barlow to reach the level of magnification that I'm looking for, the image is blurry and it's a bit like looking through a keyhole, there is almost no keyhole if I use a par of 15mm eyepieces instead. Bluriness remains, I think it's just a bit hazy today.
I wish I could show you but any attempt to take photos through the eyepiece looks like this...
(I wonder if that line in the middle is a crack in the etalon, it disappears when the focus is right)
On 28/02/2020 at 06:55, Louis D said:if you don't want to go the cheapie route like I did.
After taking a glance at the prices, I'll join you on the cheapie route so...
On 28/02/2020 at 06:55, Louis D said:I use a pair of generic 23mm 62 degree aspheric eyepieces and barlow them up to whatever power I need. No keyhole effect with them, and they're super light and compact. Once barlowed to 3x or more, they're pretty much sharp to the edge.
Do you barlow each eyepiece or the nose of bino? Show me your setup.
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On 28/02/2020 at 02:42, mikeDnight said:
Revelation binoviewers
I cannot find them in the US.
The Celestron and Astromania aren't working for me. But the other day at the store I had the misfortune of trying out a pair of Televue - they are so perfect for my eyes.
On 28/02/2020 at 06:55, Louis D said:Decloaked 18.2mm TV DeLites are supposed to be very good in binoviewers if you don't want to go the cheapie route like I did.
decloaked?
On 27/02/2020 at 23:23, Stu said:
what is this mount? it looks like a DM-4
Denk II on the left, what's on the right?
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21 hours ago, Rusted said:
2) THE SUN IS ALWAYS A DANGER! EVEN AT LOW ALTITUDES THROUGH CLOUD!
I tried both TS GPCs, 1.5x and 2.5x, with my TS binoviewers.
Eventually I settled on a 1.25" WO 2x Barlow nosepiece for binoviewing in my 150/8 PST H-a mod.
Sharp and relatively inexpensive at 47 Euros online and worth every penny in my experience.My original TS binoviewer was badly misaligned and caused eye strain and dizziness.
It's replacement was excellent and very comfortable to view through.
Allowing instant merging of the images without conscious effort.
I mostly used 32mm and 26mm Meade 4000 Plossls.
Not the 40mm! Which have tunnel vision and far too long eye relief for binoviewing.What binos do you have now?
Adjustable pier... any idea?
in DIY Astronomer
Posted
Oh and the upper seal might provide extra lateral stability.
12V ? I haven't found linear actuator with enough lateral strength to carry the 70# forkmount. If it's 12v pump, I've only seen double acting manual pumps, 110v electric pumps... And it gets complicated with oil and expensiver.