gilesco

18 minutes ago, Adam J said:

But that won't change anything the mass of the camera and other equipment will still be the same distance from the pivot point irrespective of what spacers you add. The only thing you could do is place a spacer behind the focuser. But as I say above you really should not need to do that, these are solid focusers. 

What you are saying is implying that there is a lens in the focuser drawtube (which I don't believe is the case).

We have the lens array at the end of the OTA, and that achieves focus at the camera sensor, we do have the field-flattener in between. All the focuser does is vary the distance between the lens array at the end of the OTA and the field-flattener / camera sensor at the other end.

When I achieve focus with this set up currently the focuser drawtube is almost at full extension, so by inserting spacers between the focuser and the field-flattener focus would be achieved without drawing the focus drawtube as far out of the OTA as it is currently.

15 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

 FLO and Telescope Service may have something.

Not seen any M74 or M65 spacers in the UK.

Starizona have one, designed for their reducer: https://starizona.com/store/apexed-esprit-120-150-threaded-extension

Available at Highpoint Scientific: https://www.highpointscientific.com/starizona-apex-ed-esprit-120-150-threaded-extension-for-0-65x-reducer-apex-e150ex

In Europe: https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/product_info.php/info/p12813_Starizona-Apex-ED-Esprit-120-150-Threaded-Extension.html

No delivery until new year (and I'm in the UK, so will just wait and see for the time being).

8 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

Before fixing it I'd certainly want to be sure it was broke! As suggested, first check for tilt.

Olly

There's nothing in the subs to indicate it is an issue. I just get worried when the tube is extended that far out, I do automated focusing (Sesto Senso 2) when I am absent from the scope, the ticks range from 0 - 97500 or so, focus position is at around 82000 - I would just be more happy if I was achieving focus at nearer the 50000 (around half way the tube extended).

I was more interested in whether other Esprit 120 owners find their focus position that far out.

6 hours ago, Adam J said:

The focus position is the focus position you cant change it, the camera sensor will always land in the same place relative to the lens, I would not thing that any of this would trouble the focuser on an esprit 120 though, they are pritty solid things.

Adam

Yes, I'm talking about putting a spacer at the focuser end (at the M74 or M65 interfaces), simply so that the drawtube doesn't need to move as far out, I'm not talking about changing the distance between the lenses.

So, I have the following imaging train attached to my Esprit 120:

Stock Focuser  --> 3" to M74 adapter --> 9mm Filter Cell Adapter --> Esprit 120 Field Corrector --> 20mm Spacer --> ZWO OAG --> ZWO Spacer --> ZWO Filter Wheel --> ZWO ASI1600MM.

With a tape measure I can see that I have the 75mm backfocus needed on the Field Corrector, and my imaging is good.

I have only been out once so far and got good results, but I couldn't hope but notice that my "in-focus" position on the drawtube was at least 75% focus tube extended. It didn't seem to introduce a specific issue, but would rather the in-focus position be with the draw tube less extended.

I suppose that I could try and find either some M74x1mm or M65x1mm spacers to go somewhere between the Field Corrector and the Focuser, but these seem few and far between - anyone have their focus position that far out on the Esprit 120?

Is it an issue? Could it cause draw-tube sag?

Anyone recommend a spacer available in the UK?

3 hours ago, Miguel1983 said:

Hi, it was this one , it is longer than the green one though, but the holes line up.

To avoid adding more unnecessary weight - my set up is very similar, but with a CGX - I am ordering some perspex sheeting and drill some holes through it to try and mount my PPBA and Pi4, I'm hoping that this will be lighter than another large steel plate, but good to have an alternative here, does anyone know of a UK retailer who can supply that part?

Just thinking that delivery from the EU to the UK might be hampered over the coming months....

A good first step is to join the Devon and Cornwall Club on here, I don't think any of us have met up physically - although the weather and COVID-19 restrictions continue to put pay to that.

I wonder that, as FLO are based in Exeter in Devon, whether they would sponsor or help organise some local focused meets... of course, nothing is going to happen until after the pandemic restrictions are more or less lifted, and they already get involved with the community in general through Stargazine, IKI Observatory competition data and so on, so don't know what value would be for a more local focus for them.

Hello and welcome, you may want to join the Devon and Cornwall club on here, not much activity, but the more that join the less that will be an issue, and we share certain things that we have in common, like this abysmal weather, for instance 🙂

2 hours ago, Thalestris24 said:

Not worth doing as a beginner who is imaging from indoors...

Certainly, just making it clear to the OP that the initial scope, lens is less important than the mount for longer exposures.

3 minutes ago, Thalestris24 said:

Please don't get a telescope because it seems like that's what you need or want! A 200p needs an Heq5 mount and is big and bulky and heavy. In fact, you would probably need a 200pds for imaging but that's still equally big and bulky! Even a 130pds is a bit on the bulky side. I have a 200pds and a 130pds and they both sit in the corner gathering dust. Make your astro life easier and just get a decent goto mount with a camera and lens! There are so many targets you can pick up with just a 200mm or 300mm lens. A bulky reflector is awkward to balance and the focal length means you have to guide and you really need an heq5 pro.

Louise 

I bought a £2000 mount and put a £200 OTA on it until I could afford something better. Not telling you to go down that route, but investing in the mount at first is a good idea...

5 minutes ago, Nigella Bryant said:

That's a really good idea. Do they do a £1000 voucher, lol. 

No, but I take cheques 😆😆

I expect Steve to chip in soon and remind us that returns and exchanges are extended to end of January, and I expect most astro retailers have a similar deal.

9 minutes ago, Nigella Bryant said:

Thanks Dantooine, there's a few of us on here with the same birthday, Stu as well, lol. Says it's clear tomorrow night though. I've definitely been spoilt this birthday. I'm always asked if I want my best presents for my birthday or Christmas. I always think that's unfair cus other people get the good presents on both, lol. 

Astronomers are an odd sort to cater for at Christmas and Birthdays, what we want and what we really really want, costs thousands of pounds, and is beyond the budget of most people. Must say though, that the FLO options for gifts have been well thought out to not offend potential gift givers on price etc...

If you are considering giving an astro friend a present, I would recommend the voucher route though, will save a lot of false smiles on the day, when they get a collimator for their refractor.

Happy Birthday, by the way.

2 minutes ago, ShaunyC said:

Also another total noob question about exposure.. What will the difference be between taking say 300x2sec shots and 30x20sec shots...

Ah... noise, each exposure contains noise, 300 sets of noise is worse than 30 sets of noise. Also signal, 20 secs contain more signal than 2 secs.

So generally, 30x20s is going to be better, assuming you are aligned.

Dr Glover has a great talk about this, it is linked to on my website blog, or you can search YouTube for it.

3 minutes ago, smr said:

Have ZWO said anything about the 2600 design flaw though? 

It's all well and good buying from a retailer who will look after you, but forking out £2,000 of your hard earned money on an astro camera with the potential of something 'oily' leaking all over the sensor doesn't sit right with me at all.

I'd be interested to know what this lubricant even is and how on earth it manages to find it's way to seeping all over the sensor.

 

I looked on other forums, and it is a type of thermal grease/paste that is used to help transfer heat away from the sensor during cooling - much in the same way that you apply thermal grease between a computer CPU and heatsink.

All people who have experienced the issue have said they had no problems cleaning the lens (It seems that ZWO gave instructions on how they could do this, and did offer the users to RMA / Repair / Replace).

As FLO have already mentioned they have not had any reports or returns of the ASI2600 with this problem, it is most probably likely that the issue was restricted to a particular batch, and was caused by a faulty gloop machine which applies a dose of thermal paste during assembly. I suspect that none of that batch was shipped to the UK.

3 minutes ago, Starwatcher2001 said:

I've realised that the learning curve and patience required is much, much bigger than I'm willing to undertake. Although getting into astro-photography is big lure, but I'll be sticking to visual where I can be up and running in 15 minutes, enjoying the skies (on the odd occasion it's not cloudy).

I'm even more in awe of those who develop such skills and can't imagine the additional frustration of all the extra hurdles you'll have to overcome to do it successfully from your bedroom. I sincerely wish you good luck.

Hmm... you really don't have to take imaging up as something ultra-serious. Sure you can get extremely complicated set ups and they deliver really good results, but even I started by holding up my smartphone's camera up to an eyepiece to get a picture of the moon, I even managed a star cluster with that method, and pictures of some smudges, which might be galaxies.

Then, yes, I admit I started to  get a bit more complicated, and I started on a slow journey (still on it now), but I don't have to go at any fast pace, can always switch the camera train for an eyepiece and vice-versa in 5 minutes or so.

It collapsed completely overnight:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-55147973

Something like this?

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/diagonals/baader-clicklock-flip-mirror-ii-star-diagonal.html

5 minutes ago, HollyHound said:

Oh totally, but even so, how can a premium number exist in the UK regulated telecoms system that has that kind of instant charge attached to it... that needs addressing 😬

You can, if you're with BT, but I suspect with most telcos, bar premium rate numbers from your line, it doesn't cost anything to put into place.

There should be some IVR that allows you to know the cost of a premium rate call before you actually get connected.

Yes, quite, it is quite boring for me, I'm just sat in my office, only time I'm by the scope is when I'm setting up, polar aligning or packing it all back up again, and I don't think I've ever sat by a telescope, either standing for visual, or imaging inside in the warm.

4 minutes ago, keramos said:

Any news or update on Zwo shipments, I’m waiting on camera and filter drawer... anticipation not bothering me, honest (acting all cool).

Nihal.

As someone who has been waiting 14 weeks for an order to complete (fair to say - it is mostly complete now , and cannot blame retailers for the current issues really - it did say 40-60 working days on the items when I ordered them)

FLO are fulfilling orders in the order that they were ordered, so to know when your particular order will be fulfilled you'll need to email them directly, and quote your order number, or if asking on the forums, then perhaps mention when you ordered it, although that might add some guesswork for them.

I may be a little OCD, but the apostrophe in the title of this thread is really nagging me....

I ordered my Esprit 120 with the field flattener, that was back in mid-August, the Esprit finally arrived last Friday, no field flattener though, FLO said the ones they received were not sent with any adaptors from the factory, so would have been unusable. So they're now searching for the adapters so that they can complete the order.

So perhaps check with FLO on this, as it sounds as if something is amiss with recent flattener deliveries.

21 minutes ago, FLO said:

So far, here in the UK we have never seen oil on a 2600 sensor 🙂

Steve 

Yes, sometimes I think if you go out there looking for problems with a product then you will inevitably be able to find some way of justifying not buying it.

I still think looking at results of particular kit configurations on sites like astrobin is a better way to make a judgement.

1 hour ago, Neil H said:

Whats the block on the focuser for ??

To protect the micro-focuser I think. It's only present on the side with the fine-control.

1 minute ago, JeremyS said:

Chorus from SGL’ers: “open the box!”

🙂

Well, yes, you can't just leave it there on your coffee table, can you... it will take up less space once unpacked after all. Open it, open it!!!