Viktorious

Another entry in the gallery after a second clear evening. 

Not the easiest target for a smartphone and I didn't get much integration time, but still got a decent result! Also nice to get a 2-in-1 shot 😊. 

I managed to ever so slightly mess up the white balance during processing but couldn't be bothered to redo it again (already had to redo initial 1-2 hours of work due to a frustratingly timed Windows update...).

GSO 10" f/4.24 coma corrected Newtonian.

TS-Optics 13 mm XWA eyepiece.

Xiaomi Mi 11 Pro, held with NeXYZ adapter.

57*30sec lights.

60 bias, 40 flats and only 13 darks.

Stacked in DSS, processed in PS.

M27 Dumbbell Nebula.

First session with the new phone, Xiaomi Mi 11 Pro. Not a perfect session as there were some issues with the phone adapter but got a decent result I think. The issues messed up the fov and resulted in some heavy cropping in post-processing. 

GSO 10" f/4.24 Newt. 

TS XWA 13 mm. 

Xiaomi Mi 11 Pro. 

40*30 sec lights (took 100 but rest were unusable due to the issue). 

23 darks, 29 flats, 60 bias. 

Stacked in DSS, processed in Photoshop.

3 hours ago, DanWri said:

Holy moly that is one expensive mount! No wonder you can get gorgeous images like this. 

It is. I started out with a Celestron Evolution 9.25 (once making money, started the hobby with a tabletop dob). When I realized that I wanted to photograph more I tried to sell it in order to start again with an EQ. Sweden is a small market so when I got the offer to trade it for this mount I didn't pass (the mount is worth more than the setup I had anyway 😅). With such a beast I could go "cheaper" on the scope and sacrifice weight for price, i.e. a big reflector. 

I'm super happy with it, the stability and tracking accuracy can't be compared to the Nexstar Evolution. Nice to not have to think about field rotation for longer exposures as well. 

18 hours ago, DanWri said:

That's amazing. How did you track the nebula in order to avoid light streaks? Do you have a motorized EQ or something?

Thanks! Yes I have a Losmandy GM811G, beast of a mount. 

Thanks. Yes it's on a Losmandy GM811G, so stable tracking for 32s (no guiding needed). 

Posting my M42 here as well, since it is still a DSO regardless of quality. Full information (read backstory) can be found in the Smartphone/Tablets section. 

Scope: GSO 10" f/4 Newtonian, with Explore Scientific HR coma corrector (giving f/4.24).

Camera: Xiaomi Mi Note 10. Held with my new TS smartphone adapter.

Eyepiece: APM XWA 20 mm, with Astronomik UHC filter (1.25" so some vignetting).

Frames: 47*32sec lights, no calibration frames(!).

Software: Shot with Deepskycamera (ISO 600). Stacked in DSS, edited in Photoshop.

Link to a site, moved here after edits. http://astronet.se/view_image.php?id=6398&gallery=5

First time getting the scope out since the planets in the summer (kids + three shift work + weather).. Took the scope out on Christmas day evening to show the family. Snuck in a short session on Orion nebula (M42). Moon phase was waxing gibbous 84% illuminated. 

Scope: GSO 10" f/4 Newtonian, with Explore Scientific HR coma corrector (giving f/4.24).

Camera: Xiaomi Mi Note 10. Held with my new TS smartphone adapter.

Eyepiece: APM XWA 20 mm, with Astronomik UHC filter (1.25" so some vignetting).

Frames: 47*32sec lights, no calibration frames(!).

Software: Shot with Deepskycamera (ISO 600). Stacked in DSS, edited in Photoshop.

On 21/12/2020 at 23:01, Dantooine said:

The apm 20 is my budget ethos 21 (for now) it’s nice to use. Even against your 82’s it will seem wide. 

I have yet to give it a go.. The 13 mm has been continuously delayed, from 2 days when I ordered in October, to late January as of now (will probably be further delayed)...

Tomorrow is looking to be the first clear night (with me not working), so if all goes well I will finally have looked through it within the next 48 hours! 🙂

Would be cool to try it against an Ethos at a star party sometime in the future. 

Nice! I just sold my 82s as well and have two 100s (20 and 13mm) in shipping to me :). I did however go for the cheaper APM XWA version. We'll see how they do in my f/4.24 (an f/4 with a CC that lives in the focuser). 

3 hours ago, Mai Ai Bing said:

Thank you for persevering with all my questions! Learning a lot here and certainly avoid a mistake or two. I can buy from more or less anywhere in the US. My biggest problem is that it seems difficult to find any single supplier that can ship the whole "set" at a competitive price. B&H have some stuff on sale right now, so that's why they are my preferred option. I also used them a lot in the past together with Amazon.

Okay. Well wherever you buy it from, here are the suggestions that I would look into more (which you already seem to have read up on based on your initial choices - good!). All are highly regarded even for faster scopes and will be even better at f10. 

At 24mm the Panoptic is probably the best choice (it's great). If you're feeling more premium ($$$) you can increase the afov staying with TeleVue. Either 22mm Nagler (T4, 82°) or 21mm Ethos (100°).

9 and 14mm: For these two I would personally go the "cheaper" route since reviews show that they compete with the best at shorter focal lengths. That would be the Baader Morpheus (9 - 14) or ES82 (8.8 - 14). Not at B&H would be the 100° eyepieces I mentioned before in 9 and 13mm. For more money would be the TeleVue Delos, Nagler, or Panoptic. 

At 40mm, looking at the prices at b&h, it's between the Panoptic 35mm or Pentax XW 40mm according to me (better than ES68 34 or 40 and similar price). 

2 hours ago, Mai Ai Bing said:

So ditch the 11 for a 9 and go 9-14-24-40 +2xPowermate ?

I think either would be good. On one hand the 9 maybe wouldn't be "Barlowed" as often as the 11, but on the other hand the 11 can be replaced by the 24 with 2x, and the 9 by itself will be used a lot for planetary. 

The 40 will be used every time for initial wide field view, and even more use at darker skies (in light pollution the large exit pupil will suffer, background will be bright). For the larger nebulae. The 14 will be used for some DSOs and some solar system stuff. The 9 mainly solar system. 

For DSO the 24 is probably going to be the most used, it's in the magic region of 2-2.5mm exit pupil (background darkens so contrast increases). DSOs will be beautiful in this! This is probably the eyepiece I would spend most money on. 

Are you only able to shop from b&h (not as in only but with decent shipping and such)? I was curious to see what choices you have and what a good mix of brands could be 🙂. 

45 minutes ago, Mai Ai Bing said:

Great illustration! People seem to think 9mm is only for very exceptional nights with the 8" Edge HD?

In my personal experience (with my C9.25 and now 10" Newt), up to around 300x is "worth having". As in, it isn't too rare that the seeing is good enough for that type of magnification. Meaning for the C8edge that would be around 7mm, so a 9mm would definitely get some use. That's also why I wrote above "perhaps a Barlow", it would maybe only see use with the 13mm (6.5mm) and thus perhaps not be used enough to justify the buy.

(If you're also getting the zoom, you have an extra eyepiece that can cram out that last mm should it be needed.) 

Wider isn't necessarily better per se, but it's more immersive for sure!

Don't know what your favorite object might be, just picked Orion Nebula. Here's an example of what you'd get with the ES68 40mm and a set of 20/13/9mm of the APM/Lunt/TS/WO XWA, Stellarvue Optimus, or Skywatcher Myriad (all 6 are the same optically, just different branding). 

That would be a nice set according to me. Then perhaps a Barlow to get 6.5/4.5mm from the 13/9mm, but those magnifications and exit pupils would require excellent seeing conditions (maybe even forget trying 4.5).

Here's an active thread from CN for a C9.25 (so can be applicable). I like the suggestions from Don Pensack (Starman1) at post #17. He's also active on this site and has tons of experience (runs an eyepiece shop in the US) 

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/732486-c925-suggested-eyepieces/

As a side note /comparison with that post. I just ordered the APM XWA 20mm and 13mm for my f/4 Newt (much harder on the eyepiece). 

55 minutes ago, Mai Ai Bing said:

Thanks a lot.

I understand the zoom is "on top" but for my wife plug-n-play trumps perfection.  Also I can see some people writing they use the zoom to "dail-in" the best eyepiece to use for the day and subject.

Had not thought the more narrow view would negate using the 32mm. I was thinking 16mm (with the 2x Barlow) gave a better spread than 20mm for a 40mm. So you are going to cost me some money with that ES68 or Pentax (they cost almost the same @B&H Photo)!

However, the 24mm I included is also 68° like the 40mm (70° for the Pentax) - so should I just drop it and use a wide 40mm with the Televue 2x Barlow?

I hear you about the zoom. I started out with just a zoom and have since built up a collection of fixed focal lengths. The zoom has been kept nonetheless and still gets use when observing (showing) with friends and family!

Just to clear up some issues: you listed a 1.25" Barlow so won't be usable with the 2" eyepieces. Also at those focal lengths you'd have to look at focal extenders (Powermate if TeleVue) to avoid vignetting.

But okay, before we continue with suggestions, give us some more background.

Viewing with glasses, i.e. need long eye relief? 

Tried various degrees of afov before and know what you prefer (~70, ~80, ~100)?

Much light pollution or will it be taken to a dark site often? 

Overall fine choices!

The Baader zoom is 1.25", it's just that a 2" skirt is included which can be screwed on to be able to use with 2" focusers/diagonals. 

I would say though that you're covering all those focal lengths already so might be an unnecessary expense to get the zoom. Unless you have the money and want to use it for shorter sessions where you don't want to be swapping eyepieces. 

The weak link otherwise is the ES62° 32mm. If I recall correctly the 62 series is the weakest of the ES, and the tfov will be quite close to the 24mm panoptic. Since you're getting a 2" diagonal I would suggest a "proper" 2" eyepiece (especially if you skip the zoom).

Something in the 35-40mm perhaps, for that slightly larger exit pupil at f/10. At f/10 most will be good but popping to mind are such as ES68 34mm or 40mm. Or for a bit more money Pentax XW 40mm or Panoptic 35mm or 41mm.

I have that setup. It does okay for planetary imaging and visual but even for that the mount struggles a bit. As an alt-az mount you can't do long exposures anyway (field rotation). The longest I've successfully gotten without field rotation and mount vibrations is around 25 seconds. 

If you're planning on getting serious with photography, including DSOs with long exposures, then the advice given is repeated wherever you ask. Get a nice refractor (apo) and a beefy equatorial mount. 

If you have a DSLR, the above mentioned Samyang lens is often seen at these kinds of forums with great results. A star tracker to that and you have a start. 

No experience with that particular setup. But I do have the C9.25 with the Evolution. The OTA is just above 9 kg and the Evolution is stating a max payload of just above 11 kg. I can say that with dew shield, diagonal and eyepiece that weight is pushing the mount. Changing magnification on my Baader zoom or a gust of wind is followed by quite many seconds of vibration. Focus wobbles? Oh yes. The point I'm trying to make is that being close to the stated max payload works, but it's not optimal. 

@Viktorious

Can update that the package has arrived (last Friday), within the promised 5 days. Checking microglobe now the diagonal is not reported to be in stock, so might be that I have the last T2 Zeiss that was available for now, pretty cool! 

On other notes I can recommend microglobe (was my first experience with them). Fast delivery within EU (UK company) and most importantly the lowest price on Baader equipment! I also got the Celestron f/6.3 reducer/corrector there and that price must be the cheapest in the world (£97). So that's a tip for UK/EU residents (EU for 10 more days?). 

Now I'm just waiting for my mount so I can use all my new stuff. Had to send the mount back due to some wobbly clutches.. 

Clear skies, 

Viktor 

I can't not comment on the fact that the Johns are very helpful here 😂! 

Thanks for the help John E.

The T2 Zeiss is ordered. Apart from this thread I also re-read some of the old threads and came to the conclusion that 1.25" EPs with reducer will be good enough for me (I hope 😛). Still kept reading that differences could be discerned between the Zeiss and non-Zeiss so went the "better" way there. In the end I feel like I'm getting premium equipment and at least I didn't go the most expensive way (still going to have to live on ramen for a while😅).  

John, I've seen that.. Looks like it's on stock at microglobe but haven't dealt with them so don't know how well they update the website. Maybe I shouldn't have said that if they have 1-2 left and now people reading this will buy them before me! 😛

JTEC, thanks, your experience shows that I've thought correctly so far. May I ask what scope you're using (f-ratio and such)? As mentioned I wouldn't go for 1.25 for any performance edge, it would purely be for financial purposes.

I can get a complete T2 Zeiss + reducer for ~£50 more than the 2" alone. Then I would have to get a ClickLock VB or locking ring for the 2", so the cost would be roughly the same. Then for EPs it would be enough with the 24mm for the T2+reducer whereas I would also need a 30-40mm for the 2" (£150-200). Other accessories (e.g. filters) would be pricier in 2". The want to try EAA would mean an extra £120-140 for the reducer if I've gone the 2" route. 

So, scaling it down like this basically brings it to: is the 2" 30-40mm view ~£200 better than the R/C 1.25" 20-25mm view? On top of that £200 I would also be ~£130 poorer (the cost of the reducer) when looking at cameras for EAA. 

Time for yet another cry for help when it comes to choosing diagonal. I have read the many similar threads and gathered some knowledge (too many to start linking). I have come some way in my process and now that it is coming to final decisions I would like to hear from the experts. Not many of threads I have read end with the OP returning to deliver some review/verdict of his/her final decision. While I wait for response on some thread where I asked about the result, the eagerness in me forces me to write my own thread. Perhaps some of the people asking these questions before can now answer in my thread as experts!

I have the Nexstar Evolution 9.25 and am currently using the stock diagonal. My eyepieces are the Baader 8-24 mm zoom and the stock 40 mm Plössl. I would also like to upgrade EPs and there I'm looking at something better in 24 mm range, as well some nice low power for more FOV. I'm following threads about EPs and SCTs with great interest for this (on CN). Can say that I'm currently leaning towards the 1.25" 24 mm ES 68° and 2" 36 mm Hyperion aspheric (if going 2" route).

I'm thinking 2 alternatives (including a budget alternative for one of them). I'm looking at Baader mainly for ClickLock (and expect good optics):

• Baader T2 Zeiss prism with a 1.25" ClickLock EP (T2 part #08) -OR- the 2" prism with 2" ClickLock (splurging that is).
• The budget alternative would be to get the non-Zeiss T2 prism instead for the 1.25".
• Worth noting that I would like to get the Celestron f/6.3 Reducer/Corrector. This would be for future purposes of delving into EAA but of course I would use it visually as well (especially if choosing the T2 route).

The reasoning for my alternatives:

• Go for the 2" Zeiss prism to theoretically get the best of the best in visual terms. I would make better use of the 46 mm baffle tube opening. Theoretically possible to combine with the R/C thanks to relative short light path (although not necessarily needed with 2" EPs). Downside of going to 2" accessories would be the cost, EPs, filters etc., on top of diagonal. Would not be able to spend all these costs at once.
• Cheaper route with T2 prism (especially the non-Zeiss), not only diagonal but also the other accessories. Cost of the R/C would be comparable to e.g. the 36 mm aspheric and give similar power and FOV with the 24 mm ES, i.e. the 24 mm would act as both. Extra plus is the ClickLock clamp for 1.25" with built in fine focusing not involving the mirror. Downside of knowing that not all light coming out of baffle tube is used. To get the wide FOV (24 mm + R/C) I'm adding glass to the optical train (theoretically not a good thing).

I'm leaning towards the T2 as it would be a cheaper diagonal and for EPs I would only need the 24 mm and then the reducer instead of a 30-40 mm, so saving the expense of one EP. Then I would already have the reducer for continuing into EAA. The questions I hope the experts here can help with:

• The old reducer vs 2" diagonal question. With R/C and the 24 mm I can get roughly the same mag and FOV as e.g. the 36 mm Hyperion (technically 38 mm vs 36 mm and 68° vs 72°). Also reading good things about the ES 68° and with R/C the EP should behave the same. Am I missing something here? The logics say that the I would lose some contrast with the R/C (not using full opening + adding elements), correct? Possibly flatter fields though (not important now, hopefully the EP threads might tell soon enough).
• The Zeiss vs non-Zeiss T2? Big differences? I have read a few posts on this so most to get some updated views here (have read that Baader has changed some things over the years).
• Using the R/C (f/6.3) with these prisms. I know f/7 is mentioned as "the limit" but also remember BillP's test where he was happy down to f/6 with the prisms (in 2014 at least).
• Perhaps most important: have I missed some other obvious alternative here?

Maybe I have forgotten some question here but perhaps for the best as I assume those who have gotten this far are tired of reading now. Thanks for getting here though!

Thanks,
Viktor