martinclayden

Thanks for your reply.

I'll use those settings. I must admit, I'm struggling to get my head round why an optically flat filter can affect the flattener settings...

Regards 

Martin 

I have these items (WO 73 & flattener) and I'm trying to find the correct backfocus procedure for the flattener, when used with a Canon DSLR with a clip filter fitted.

I've read that the thickness of the clip filter (Optolong L-Enhance) matters - true?

I've read that the flattener is to be set at 11.4mm - true?.

The clip filter thickness is to be added to this - true?

Do WO publish a detailed procedure ?

Thanks

Martin

On 13/05/2022 at 20:52, OpusElite said:

There certainly is such a thing as an Orion Optics LX200, I have one on a Vixen SP mount. There don't seem to be many around and there aren't many pictures of them. 

It's a great scope, with mine benefitting from having the original 1.25" rack and pinion focuser replaced with a 2" Crayford.

I've just put it up for sale today as I have too many scopes and need funds for my observatory project.

I have another 8" scope so am letting this one go with the Vixen SP mount as they're matching. 

And yes, I probably will regret selling as it's a fab scope!

 

Seems mine was made by Orion UK - a startup from 1984. The worst part about it is the rack focuser - massive backlash, stiff, imprecise. Hope to replace it one day with a Crayford or maybe a Baader Steeltrack🤞

On 13/05/2022 at 20:52, OpusElite said:

There certainly is such a thing as an Orion Optics LX200, I have one on a Vixen SP mount. There don't seem to be many around and there aren't many pictures of them. 

It's a great scope, with mine benefitting from having the original 1.25" rack and pinion focuser replaced with a 2" Crayford.

I've just put it up for sale today as I have too many scopes and need funds for my observatory project.

I have another 8" scope so am letting this one go with the Vixen SP mount as they're matching. 

And yes, I probably will regret selling as it's a fab scope!

 

I still have my Orion.

I found out the other day that it was made on the UK by Orion UK, sometime in the late 1980's. I've contacted Orion for more info

On 13/05/2022 at 13:20, ollypenrice said:

Are these pictures you have taken or have you been sent them or found them online? I ask because the 'Orion LX200' text really does look, to me, as if it's been photoshopped from a flat surface onto the curved surface of the tube. It looks very dodgy to me but I'm happy to be corrected.

Olly

These are photos I took myself, they are not PhotoShopped!!

The scope is a UK made Orion LX200D from the 1980's. I've only found out in the last couple of days that there is both a US Orion and a UK Orion

I inherited one of these - which I understand was bought at Jodrell Bank here in the UK, back in the 1980's. It was on a Vixen SP Mount. It's another variant; this time LX200D. It's a completely unmodified classic Newtonian, as purchased. Still produces good images though  

I'd be interested to know more about this - where it was originally made, etc.

TIA

Martin

2 hours ago, Rustang said:

You will be fine giving the arms a little tweak, place a small flat head screw driver in the gap and just twist alittle. It only takes a small adjustment. I did it on mine and it worked a treat.

I did just as you suggest - nervously - but it worked.

Many thanks for the tip!

incidentally - while reading about this issue I came across the controversy from 2016 about these filters being a copy of Astronomik's mechanical design, but it's suggested made to lower quality standards - explains the poor fit

2 hours ago, Astro Noodles said:

It should have two little 'arms' on the bottom of the filter which can be carefully bent either in or out to ensure a secure fit.

It has the two arms, which I thought were springs, I'm reluctant to attempt to bend these

35 minutes ago, Shimrod said:

Not on my filter - it has a little notch cut out so the filter itself has a little flex in it. I think the filter is made slightly too large which is why it then provides a snug fit in the camera. The picture below probably explains it better...

 

 

Here's an image of my filter, two notches, two springs and NO flex and a loose fit!!

6 hours ago, teoria_del_big_bang said:

I cannot see too well as the picture is quite small but from memory  (I do not have a DSLR anymore) it does not actually clip in but lays inside like you have it then when you attach a lens, or attach it to an adapter to fit to your scope that holds it in place more securely.

Steve

 

Videos on the web suggest a push click fit, with an ef-s lens the filter is free to move a couple of mm

Optolong's web site push firmly. I think their manufacture tolerances or dimensions have changed

3 hours ago, Shimrod said:

I have an Optolong UHC clip in filter and you are correct that it sits on those ledges. My filter fits in firmly and doesn't move at all - it requires some effort to remove it. It doesn't so much 'clip' as is just a tight fit . This is in a Canon 7d mk2 so the exact same ef-s mounting as your camera.

Interesting, my filter sits loosely on those ledges, it's not firm at all. Videos on the web suggest a push click fit.

With a lens fitted the filter is free to float forward, but probably only by 1 or 2 mm

Not sure if this is the right group for this ?

I just received one of these filters (Jan 21) from FLO and I am having great difficulty in fitting to either a Canon 60Da or 77D

When inserted, the filter sits on these ledges (I think - they are under the filter) - and CANNOT be clicked into place. I've also tried an angled insertion technique I read about, to no avail.

With a lens fitted the filter moves around (not a massive issue for me as I use the camera for astrophotography - and the camera is always pointed up), but still, at the price, I'd expect a secure fit

Has anybody got any advice

Thanks

Martin

I've been reading around for a few days now to try and find a definitive answer to which is the better filter to use for a modded DSLR.

To be clear this means that just the rear UV/IR cut filter has been removed.

I think the answer is CLS, that the CCD version is better for "full mod" cameras

is this right ?

TIA

Martin

1 hour ago, woodblock said:

Can I just add. I find the RA and DEC setting circles on the HEQ5 totally useless. I wouldn't recommend using those either.

Yes, some say they are of use in setting the home position, but other than that, I agree

Thanks for your replies. I suspect it's the inclinometer that's out. Just need to be patient and wait to align to the Pole Star

Simple question: I set 54 degrees on the dial on the side (the mount is on a level base), but measured the mount with an inclinometer set in the jaws at just over 50 degrees.

I'd hope for a bit more accurate than this

Is this inaccuracy common?

Anybody used this filter?

How does it compare with Optolong and IDAS?

Martin

22 hours ago, martinclayden said:

Thank you, good tip. I've upgraded from Star Adventurer, so I'm familiar with the principles of PA - it's just the practice I need to practice with the HEQ5

Thanks for this - that's a good tutorial. I used exactly this process on my Star Adventurer....and I've just done it on the HEQ5 Pro

3 hours ago, Budgie1 said:

It's not needed because you're basically aligning to the target you want to image.

Here's a quick run through of how it works:

1. PA the mount and use something like Cartes Du Ceil or Stellarium to slew the mount to where it thinks your target is (APT can do this on it's own by platesolving from the home position but I like to use CDC).
2. Take an image, tell the platesolving software what your target is and it will check the image using built-in star catalogues to see where the scope is actually pointing, then synchronise the actual position with CDC/Stellarium.
3. The software (APT) will then slew the mount to bring your target to the centre of the image, take another image to check location and adjust again if required.
4. Once you're on target you can start guiding or just remain on sidereal.
5. If you change target, you just re-run the process.

One advantage of platesolving is that you can choose exactly where the centre of your image will be. Say you want to image M81 & M82 and get them both in the frame, you just pick a spot between the two galaxies and tell APT to platesolve to that location. If you record that location you can centre on it night after night to collect more data on the same target.

The platesolving process looks long winded when typed out, but in reality it normally takes a couple of minutes and most of it is automated.

There's a few good videos on YouTube about this, whether imaging with a dedicated astro camera, or via a DSLR; the process looks simple, and reliable. I like that it can done fully remotely too. 

2 hours ago, StevieDvd said:

Also, let us know what you plan to do, image or observe? Then we can tailor the info to your needs.  And any other equipment like the scope and camera(s) and software you plan to use. It all helps (as we do).

I plan on imaging - using either an 8" Newt, modded Canon 60D or stock Canon 77D. 

Imaging will be guided with PHD2 and ZWO 120mm guide camera.

Control will be APT on an ASCOM platform. With this I'm looking into (not yet tried) plate solving powered by ASTAP for object alignment, which appears to offer the possibility of skipping the mount's 1/2/3 star alignment process - but it's early days for that yet. I've often used a rather laborious iterative image, solve, adjust method with a non-goto mount - so the automated method does appeal to me

As ever, I do appreciate the help given on this forum - tapping into this body of knowledge is always worthwhile.

Martin

50 minutes ago, AstroMuni said:

When you get a chance use the Polarscope to ensure that your mount is aligned correctly. I found that just setting it to our latitude using the scale on the side wasnt great. Even if Polaris gets into the middle of the circle is a great difference.

I dont know if they have updated their manual because the new reticle is like a clock face but the manuals still talk of the old one showing pictures of constellations. If not then download the manual for the HEQ6 which explains the new interface. You may also need to calibrate the polarscope itself.  This article explains it well https://www.myastroscience.com/polarscopecalibration

Thank you, good tip. I've upgraded from Star Adventurer, so I'm familiar with the principles of PA - it's just the practice I need to practice with the HEQ5

50 minutes ago, 7170 said:

Ok, I would recommended you do a 1-star alignment next time at night, and I suspect that will solve things.

You basically use the hand controller to go into 1-start alignment mode, select a bright star from the list that you can see, and the mount will then point the scope to where it thinks it should be. You then use the direction arrows on the hand controller to move the star into view in eyepiece then an tell the mount when it is in view. Once done the mount knows the offset due to the scope not being perfectly aligned with the NCP when it starts up.

Once aligned when you use the goto feature it should then point very close to any target in that region of the sky and should be in the eyepiece.  You can then do three start alignment in the future if you want it to be more accroute across the whole sky.

Cheers! I'll be patient and wait 😊

53 minutes ago, randomic said:

Isn't this just because the bottom screw is tighter than the top here?

The right hand side is all one casting, all moveable bits are on the other side. The width of the casting differs from top to bottom - illustrated by the red lines.

The consensus I'm hearing is that star alignment and good PA is needed for accurate Goto; I know that's kind of obvious, but I was hoping for a bit more accuracy based on just reasonable PA. I also understand that iterative plate solving and adjustment will find an object. I guess there's a limit to what can be done in summer, in the daytime...I'll just have to wait for a starry night

Thanks to all who have commented

Martin

3 hours ago, 7170 said:

Have you done a star alignment through the menu?

If you haven't, the mount will be assuming the home position (and your scope) is perfectly aligned with the NCP when it starts, which it won't be in reality. If you have done a 1 star alignment for example and it is still out then there is something else going on.

No, not yet, still learning the ropes with the mount in daytime use