martinclayden

Thanks for your reply. I'll use those settings. I must admit, I'm struggling to get my head round why an optically flat filter can affect the flattener settings... Regards Martin

I have these items (WO 73 & flattener) and I'm trying to find the correct backfocus procedure for the flattener, when used with a Canon DSLR with a clip filter fitted. I've read that the thickness of the clip filter (Optolong L-Enhance) matters - true? I've read that the flattener is to be set at 11.4mm - true?. The clip filter thickness is to be added to this - true? Do WO publish a detailed procedure ? Thanks Martin

Seems mine was made by Orion UK - a startup from 1984. The worst part about it is the rack focuser - massive backlash, stiff, imprecise. Hope to replace it one day with a Crayford or maybe a Baader Steeltrack🤞

I still have my Orion. I found out the other day that it was made on the UK by Orion UK, sometime in the late 1980's. I've contacted Orion for more info

These are photos I took myself, they are not PhotoShopped!! The scope is a UK made Orion LX200D from the 1980's. I've only found out in the last couple of days that there is both a US Orion and a UK Orion

I inherited one of these - which I understand was bought at Jodrell Bank here in the UK, back in the 1980's. It was on a Vixen SP Mount. It's another variant; this time LX200D. It's a completely unmodified classic Newtonian, as purchased. Still produces good images though I'd be interested to know more about this - where it was originally made, etc. TIA Martin

I did just as you suggest - nervously - but it worked. Many thanks for the tip! incidentally - while reading about this issue I came across the controversy from 2016 about these filters being a copy of Astronomik's mechanical design, but it's suggested made to lower quality standards - explains the poor fit

It has the two arms, which I thought were springs, I'm reluctant to attempt to bend these

Here's an image of my filter, two notches, two springs and NO flex and a loose fit!!

Videos on the web suggest a push click fit, with an ef-s lens the filter is free to move a couple of mm Optolong's web site push firmly. I think their manufacture tolerances or dimensions have changed

Interesting, my filter sits loosely on those ledges, it's not firm at all. Videos on the web suggest a push click fit. With a lens fitted the filter is free to float forward, but probably only by 1 or 2 mm

Not sure if this is the right group for this ? I just received one of these filters (Jan 21) from FLO and I am having great difficulty in fitting to either a Canon 60Da or 77D When inserted, the filter sits on these ledges (I think - they are under the filter) - and CANNOT be clicked into place. I've also tried an angled insertion technique I read about, to no avail. With a lens fitted the filter moves around (not a massive issue for me as I use the camera for astrophotography - and the camera is always pointed up), but still, at the price, I'd expect a secure fit Has anybody got any advice Thanks Martin

I've been reading around for a few days now to try and find a definitive answer to which is the better filter to use for a modded DSLR. To be clear this means that just the rear UV/IR cut filter has been removed. I think the answer is CLS, that the CCD version is better for "full mod" cameras is this right ? TIA Martin

Yes, some say they are of use in setting the home position, but other than that, I agree

Thanks for your replies. I suspect it's the inclinometer that's out. Just need to be patient and wait to align to the Pole Star

Simple question: I set 54 degrees on the dial on the side (the mount is on a level base), but measured the mount with an inclinometer set in the jaws at just over 50 degrees. I'd hope for a bit more accurate than this Is this inaccuracy common?

Anybody used this filter? How does it compare with Optolong and IDAS? Martin

Thanks for this - that's a good tutorial. I used exactly this process on my Star Adventurer....and I've just done it on the HEQ5 Pro

There's a few good videos on YouTube about this, whether imaging with a dedicated astro camera, or via a DSLR; the process looks simple, and reliable. I like that it can done fully remotely too.

I plan on imaging - using either an 8" Newt, modded Canon 60D or stock Canon 77D. Imaging will be guided with PHD2 and ZWO 120mm guide camera. Control will be APT on an ASCOM platform. With this I'm looking into (not yet tried) plate solving powered by ASTAP for object alignment, which appears to offer the possibility of skipping the mount's 1/2/3 star alignment process - but it's early days for that yet. I've often used a rather laborious iterative image, solve, adjust method with a non-goto mount - so the automated method does appeal to me As ever, I do appreciate the help given on this forum - tapping into this body of knowledge is always worthwhile. Martin

Thank you, good tip. I've upgraded from Star Adventurer, so I'm familiar with the principles of PA - it's just the practice I need to practice with the HEQ5

Cheers! I'll be patient and wait 😊

The right hand side is all one casting, all moveable bits are on the other side. The width of the casting differs from top to bottom - illustrated by the red lines.

The consensus I'm hearing is that star alignment and good PA is needed for accurate Goto; I know that's kind of obvious, but I was hoping for a bit more accuracy based on just reasonable PA. I also understand that iterative plate solving and adjustment will find an object. I guess there's a limit to what can be done in summer, in the daytime...I'll just have to wait for a starry night Thanks to all who have commented Martin

No, not yet, still learning the ropes with the mount in daytime use