Miguel_EA1HTA

Hi Andy,

Unfortunately, I can't confirm it, sorry.

The longer recording seems to have a period around 3-4 seconds, while the chirp was supposed to be repeated at 2-second intervals.

The shorter recording is closer to that period.

(graphic created from https://academo.org/articles/spectrogram/)

I think there is also one period in each file that is shorter than the rest of them.

But I can't tell you more at this moment.

If I find a sample recording about how it should sound, I will post here.

Thank you very much for sharing your findings !!

Regards,

Miguel

EDIT: according to https://www.spaceweather.com/images2022/26dec22/HAARP-2010XC15-2022-FINAL.pdf you might send your recordings to them:

Quote

Amateur radio and radio astronomy enthusiasts are invited to listen to the transmissions/echoes and submit reception reports to the HAARP facility at uaf-gi-haarp@alaska.edu, or by mailing a report to the address at the end of this document.

Just in case anyone is curious about it:

Link to information about today's experiment 27th Dec 2022 https://www.gi.alaska.edu/news/haarp-bounce-signal-asteroid-nasa-experiment 

Quote

HAM RADIO OBSERVING OPPORTUNITY: Ham radio operators may be able to detect today's HAARP radio transmission to asteroid 2010 XC15. HAARP will be transmitting at 9.6 MHz from 1100 UTC to 2300 UTC. A thickening ionosphere during the 2nd half of experiment may allow the signal to be detected far away via ionospheric skip. 

(source: spaceweather)

'Nearby' confirmation of how the signal should sound can be heard from Anchorage WebSDR about 400km from Fairbanks HAARP; http://wl7no.ddns.net:8074/?f=9599.68usbz9

Also, it can be received on WL7NO WebSDR. http://www.ipernity.com/doc/777361/51719510 

Sweeps audible here in the UK too.  http://wessex.zapto.org:8073/?f=9599.950amz9

I can't try to make any of the suggested solutions at the moment (no room, no time...), but I just wanted to let you know that I'm really interested in hearing your experiences, how you made it, what can be made, from the begining point of view...

So for all of this, I can't do anything else but saying to you: THANK YOU for SHARING !!

Regards,

Miguel (EA1HTA)

Welcome onboard, Israel !!

I hope you enjoy also this forum, as least as you enjoy your scope !!

Kind regards,

Miguel

Thank you very much for the fast answer, David.

It is new, so no grub screw.

I will apply a little more force with my hands then

Thank you !!

Hi all !!

I'm planning to replace the Taka focuser by a FTF2025 with its adapter, but I have the following doubt: how can I disassemble the focuser housing from the Taka tube ?

On the FTF side (with adapter on) I can see the thread... but I'm not sure on how to remove the focuser from the tube: 

Should I try to turn the green housing, maybe with a strap wrench tool, or should I first unscrew a little bit the screw next to the housing, on the left?

To my understanding, the three tiny hex-screws are to work on focuser tightness, and are not related to focuser housing union to the tube...

But I'd like to confirm how to do it before crashing anything

Thank you in advance !!

Kind regards,

Miguel

Thank you, Shimrod.

Yes, they seem quite similar (iOptron will have a version without the ipolar).

I prefer the form-factor of the iOptron, but apart from that I think that they're quite equal...

Maybe the topic might be more focused on the differences in the controllers' databases and easy use, from people's perspective.

Thank you for your comments !!

Regards

Hi all,

Considering only visual needs for an Alt-az mount, what do you think about these two mounts?

Who should behave better?

Which controller system do you think it's better, the Synscan (v5) or the NovaController (#8410) ?

Thank you very much vineyard.

Indeed it is my assumption, that 6.5 holes are unthreaded, because I have only seen them mentioning about threaded holes for M6 ones, I will check again just in case.

Hi all,

Let's go with a dummy question from my side...

I want to use Primalucelab 80mm support rings with Primaluce dovetail, but I'm not sure about how to bind them together.

I was thinking first in using a Losmandy-D-style dovetail, or a Vixen-style as fallback alternative.

Primaluce Rings have:

* two holes with 55mm between them and M6 threaded, and

* two holes with 20mm between them and 6,5mm diameter holes unthreaded.

Losmandy style dovetail plate 240mm PLUS has holes at 20 and 55 separations, all of them of 6,5mm diameter (unthreaded).

* Could I then use M6 bolts at 55mm distance to bind ring and dovetail?

* Or shall I use 6,5 bolts at 20mm distance to do it ?

I just want to be sure I buy everything I need. 

Thank you so much in advance !!

Hi!

If the integer number is a year, the decimal part could be a fraction of the year, couldn't it?

So for 43.68, that could be 1943 and then 0.68 of 365 days = Day 248 = 5th September .

What do you think ?

Cheers !

It looks really interesting!

Maybe you can use a "dotted line" instead of the continuos line, to minimize the ghosting, change to light grey lines or increase grams per sheet...

Hi,

Does it matter if the purchase is done before 1st January or after?

Just thinking in ordering from FLO to be shipped to Spain, although several items are not in stock...

Thank you in any case !!

Regards,

Miguel

Hi Jeremy,

Sorry, I meant: Optical Corrector Assembly (some people say adapter instead of assembly) / Optical Corrector System (OCS) / or Glasspath corrector (GPC)...

I know that Baader has several models: 1.25x, 1.7x and 2,6x

But not sure about other makers, nor about which one should be used with the FC76/FC76Q.

Thanks !

PS:

• Zeiss 30mm binoviewer adds to Optical path length: +122mm with installed Baader eyepiece holders.
• Glasspathcorrector Factor 1,25. Optical path length: ≥ -30 mm
• Glasspathcorrector Factor 1,70. Optical path length: -65 mm

Hi all,

I´m thinking in adding a Taka 76DCU to my 30mm-Zeiss Binoviewer in the coming future...

The idea is to use the taka mainly in CQ (1.7x) configuration, with the binoviewer.

For the binoviewers themselves, the light path is 122mm with installed Baader eyepiece holders.

Do you know which OCS will be needed ?

Thank you in advance.

Kind regards,

Miguel

Great report - thanks for sharing it!

I´m waiting for the C. Booster, while from time to time I use the color ones I have (not that good quality they have...)

So I´m looking forward to check it with my own eyes, for planets and moon soon...

Regards,

Hi there !!

In my case, my observatory is my 2nd high-flat kitchen´s window !!

I´m building a wood table to use on the window sill, with some other help to keep it stable and horizontal, and then put on top of it a mini-pier and a grab and go refractor (tiny, as I need to store it somehwere inside)...

That will help with my now naked-eye observations from a window

Let´s keep moving, and at the end it will become the most use place for us

Regards,

Miguel

Congrats Jeremy on your new CQ module ! 

That´s the set up I want to build this summer.

Please, let us know your impressions and comments !

Thank you,

Miguel

Thanks, Steve !!

Congrats on your 100th edition.  

I´ve just discovered it, but will subscribe now as it´s so great !

Regards,

Miguel

I will go with the ePub version, thank you for your review !!

Thank you for you answer, JeremyS !

Hi JeremyS,

How does it perform, the Tak FC76 mounted on the SW AZ GTi ?

And with the CQ extender?

Thank you in advance !!

Kind regards,

Miguel

Thanks a lot, Alan !!! 

Thank you so much all !!

I was thinking in it, as I have very little room for my frac...

I´ll need to check height (not valid if too low for me neither), and what would be the minimum distance (from a wall to the pier, if two of the legs are put next to the wall), to check if everything fits inside the little space available... 

Thank you again!!

If anyone has more inputs... please, go ahead and add them here !!

Hi,

Does anyone have more information about the Altair astro minipier ?

I´ve seen it in their Fb: