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wesdon1

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Everything posted by wesdon1

  1. @Albir phil Thanks phil. yes it's massively improved my camera mate. When I get better at processing i'll start producing really nice images hopefully!
  2. @Ags yes I had obviously read and been told about how much Ha light/red colours the unmodded DSLR's cut out but it wasn't until i actually used my modified camera that it really struck me just how much ha it's been blocking! I was amazed!
  3. Hi all. So last night I managed my first ever session with my newly modded Canon EOS 600D DSLR camera, and I literally could not believe my eyes when I saw the first 3 minute sub!! I was also using the Optolong L-Enhance Filter. The difference that the modification to camera made was astounding. I have been doing astrophotography for just over 1 year with a normal unmodded DSLR and I never realised just how much of the red Ha data that an unmodded DSLR was blocking until i got it modded. If there is ONE THING I would advise any newbie to imaging, it's GET YOUR DSLR camera astro-modded asap! I only managed just under 1 hour total integration, but I estimate i'd have needed about 3 hours data to gather the same amount of Ha signal with my unmodded camera!? Plus the contrast between the Ha and the background night sky is massively improved, and alongside the L-Enhance filter, it just makes your data sooo much cleaner and easier to process in post! Obviously my post processing leaves a lot to be desired still, but i'm just buzzing with excitement about what's possible with my new setup!! *Canon DSLR astro-modded *SW HEQ5 Pro mount *Optolong L-Enhance Filter *Altair Lightwave 66/400ED Refractor *ZWO ASI 120MM for guiding with PHD2 *48 minutes total integration ( clouds...again! lol ) *Lights - 16 x 180sec *Flats - 15 x 9sec *Bias - 15 x 1/4000th sec *No darks ( difficult to match sensor temperature with DSLR cameras ) *I wasn't sure which image to post on here. They're both exact same image, just slightly different post processing. I will obviously get better with processing with more experience )
  4. @tooth_dr Incredibly detailed, colour and contrast rich, stunning image! This has to be one the best DSO images I've seen to date! May I ask, what Bortle scale you achieved this in? Utterly stunning image my friend!
  5. @vlaiv Hi again Vlaiv. Thank you so much for such a detailed and helpful response. Youy really know your craft! I will take on board everything you've educated me about and put that new knowledge into practice. Again thank you so much Vlaiv, I really do appreciate yours and everyone else's help and education, I'd be lost without these forums! As a side note, I do plan to invest in either a large mak' cass' with a minimum 150mm aperture, or a medium sized SCT of around 200mm to 250mm'ish aperture, specifically for my planetary work. I've seen incredible planetary works produced with these optical systems, they seem made for planetary and very small DSO's, and I've never actually own either type of optical system, so I very much look forward to getting one in the coming months. Clear Skies to Vlaiv and all who contributed!
  6. @knobby Hi knobby, and thank you for your help and advice. Yes i forgot to mention the pixel scale part of the equation, sorry! That was one of the other major reasons I wanted to use higher power Barlow's, to achieve better pixel scale and F-number. I will give the 3X barlow a shot with the 224MC and see how I fare, thanks. Just one other question, if I may, please Knobby? Would you recommend I decrease the ROI around the Planet so my images/frames are more "zoomed in" to the Planet, so to speak? Does decreasing the ROI until it's tight around the Planet increase contrast/detail/surface detail etc?
  7. Hi all. So because the weather is still awful here in Liverpool UK, I have decided to try find a gap in clouds and grab a few minutes worth of video of Jupiter and/or Saturn and process their frames to hopefully get some nice final images. I will be using my ZWO 224MC Planetary Camera, my Newtonian Reflector 200/1000, obviously mounted on my big HEQ5 Mount. I'll be doing around 3 X 90 second vids on each planet, at a frame rate of around 150-200/sec. My question is, would using a 3X or even 5X Barlow be beneficial in terms of image quality? What I mean is, will increasing the FL of my 'scope so far with said Barlow's ( 3X/3000mm FL and 5X/5000mm Fl, respectively ) be "too zoomed in" and degrade the image quality? I want to use higher power Barlow's due to my Newtonians 1000mm FL not really being "zoomed in" enough, as say in comparison to a 8inch SCT with a native 2000mm FL which is easily increased to 4000mm FL with just a 2X Barlow. Last year i imaged planets with a eyepiece Projection adaptor fitted with a 10mm EP and a DSLR camera and the results were poor. Very blurred images/frames. Thanks in advance if anyone can give me any tips. Wes.
  8. @Swillis I'm not sure if you need one for yours mate? If your mod is same as mine then maybe try the UV/IR filter with your samyang 135 and see how your images look? Btw thanks so much for helping me, I really appreciate it thanks. I'd be lost without the help and guidance from yourself and other SGL members!
  9. @ollypenrice Thanks so much for such a detailed and helpful message Olly. I agree the light patch in my image is indeed LP, specifically these two pain in the backside white LED lights that shine right into my refractors objective from the right side of my rig outside, so i'm going to have to find a way shielding the refractors objective from those damn lights. Yes I will keep getting more and more data on M31 until i have many hours total, then see how i get on processing. Thanks Olly
  10. Thank you for the processing guide @alacant I will give it a try this evening. Also thanks so much for going to the trouble of trying to help me, I would be lost without places like SGL.
  11. @fatjon Hi John, welcome to SGL. I'm miles away in Liverpool, unfortunately. You have quite an expensive setup there, really great gear. I would suggest you work on getting your guiding as good as possible, as at such a relatively long focal length, guiding will need to be good. So make sure you balance your rig really well, have your tripod as close to perfectly level as possible. Also make sure you get your mount polar aligned properly, and do a 3 star alignment, it all helps your guiding be more precise. Once you have good guiding, your only limiting factor will be local light pollution and the filters you use to determine how long your sub-exposures can be before light pollution starts creeping in significantly. I see you have a reducer so that's definitely a big help in more ways than one. More than anything else though John, take your time and try enjoy the experience. This hobby takes a lot of practice and perseverance. One big advantage you have over someone like myself is your knowledge of computer software, because a lot of the hobby involves using various software programmes to process your data/images. I have struggles with that side of the hobby but i'm getting better all the time. best of luck John, this hobby is a wonderful one... Btw good for you trying to lose some weight, my dad is doing the same thing, he's really struggling with it but he's persevering, Bless him. Clear Skies, Wes.
  12. Hi @Swillis thanks for chipping in/helping. It's just the hot filter removal, not the full spectrum mod. So i'm guessing the other filter will remain in place? If so then just to confirm, I won't need the IR/UV cut filter? I sent the camera to Andy Ellis of Astronomiser website, he was recommended by experienced folk on here. Andy has posted it back and i'm expecting it tomorrow or friday.
  13. @Albir phil Yes I have just mearned this from Elp thanks Phil, but i am hoping to get better red ha data in galaxies, which will helpo with overall colour variation in my galaxy images. The most exciting part of astro-mod for me is the nebula potential, I'm really looking to getting better neb data!
  14. @Elp yes i'll use a uv/ir filter when imaging galaxies with it, thanks Elp. I don't expect miracles with the astro-mod on galaxy data, but getting more red Ha data will definitely be a bonus!
  15. I for got to mention to you Elp, I sent my T3i off for an astro-mod, specifically a hot filter removal, if I recall correctly. So i'm hoping that will help in some way with galaxy data, but i'm also excited about it's potential with emission nebs, I hear they really pop with the astr-mods? Thanks again Elp, i'll keep the post updated, thanks mate.
  16. @Albir phil Hi Phil, thank you for helping. I'm going to try out both Elp's and your suggestions, thanks mate. As a side note, I sent my t3i camera for an astro-mod and it's due back tomo0rrow, so I might have more luck with galaxy data when using a full spectrum camera. I'll keep the post updated, thanks. Thanks again Phil, I really do appreciate the help and adsvice.
  17. @Elp Hi and thank you Elp. The camera is a canon T3i unmodded, sorry, I forgot to include it. I'm at Bortle 7'ish, so would you suggest i do, say, 1 minute or less subs to avoid most the LP and just acquire many hours total integration, while not using the L-pro? Ok thanks I'll try BE in Siril like you suggest, and have another few go's at improving my image, thanks Elp Thank You so much for helping me Elp
  18. Hi all. So for a while now I've been really really struggling getting the outer arms of my galaxy images to show in processing. My latest attempt had around 2.4 hours of total integration, but yet STILL in processing, even if i stretch the data so far the core is hideously blown out, the outer spiral arms are still practically invisible?? does this mean the data simply isn't there? Also, I was imaging andromeda about 8 moon diameters from an almost full moon, would this affect outer arms/my ability to capture outer arms?? Tbh i'm getting desperate now, I don't know what I am doing wrong?? ... Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank You all in advance for anything you can say to help... 140 mins total exposure/integration Optolong L-pro Filter Canon T3i unmodded 66/400 refractor ( F5.9 ) HEQ5 Pro Mount Photoshop *The second Andro' image is the best I can stretch data so far. Also, I couldn't get a background extraction in SIRIL. Lots more to learn! LOL Thank You again to everyone who's tried helping me, I really do appreciate it thanks.
  19. @Blueboy Brilliant image mate, even better considering it's your first attempt. I've been doing astro-imaging for roughly 1 year and mine aren't this good! LOL. Clear Skies! Wes, Liverpool ( Bortle 7 )
  20. @andrew s I concur with your sentiments Andrew. This is indeed one of a small number of places online where people can have the most interesting conversations and debates, and it is nearly always civil and respectful, save for the rare one off individual who is here for all the wrong reasons. My goodness if I mentioned GR or QM on my Facebook page ( which I did attempt on a couple of occasions! ) I get either total silence or total ridicule! ( and I have to admit, it really hurt my feelings, because I really couldn't/don't undr4stand why people need to be so rude? If they don't like something, they can tell me in a polite and respectful manner? ) Furthermore, whenever I post beautiful astro pics on facebook, most people love the pics, but have ZERO interest in the science behind the pic they're looking at?? Really baffles me, to be honest... Kind Regards, Wes
  21. @maw lod qan I was just commenting about the fact this thread has really got people going! I never realised people felt so strongly about GR and QM and Newtonian laws etc!?
  22. My goodness this subject matter has really got people going. Personally I had to stand back from the debate when people much much more intelligent than me started mentioning things I can't even spell properly, let alone understand!? Haha! Seriously though, I have read/seen some incredible comments in this thread. Total respect...
  23. @wookie1965 Oh wow! Now that's something I've never thought of Paul!?? I could wheel all my gear along landings, then use it's frame as two handles to carry it down the stairs parts of the trip down and up?? Thanks so much Paul, I've never even thought of anything like this!? It could be such a game changer for me when having such a hard time with those damn stairs! Again thank you so much Paul, i'll almost certainly buy this or very similar device. I'll keep you/the thread posted on how I get on mate. Kindest Regards and many thanks, Wes
  24. @John You talk total sense and wisdom John. I'm much less experienced than you but even after 5 years visual and almost 1 year imaging, I have learned that the best gear to buy is the gear you will actually use, and use most often. I was also caught up in the "aperture fever" early on ( still am, but much more sensible about what I now consider will be a practical, larger 'scope ) I think it is also fair to say, that with under 1 years worth of imaging experience under my proverbial belt, I am still caught up in the over-eagerness and excitement and desperation to get as much new gear, and as much imaging time outside as humanly possible. I feel I need to calm my excitement a little, and try just enjoy the ride more and not be so obsessed with what I might buy or image tomorrow. Everything you say is totally sensible and shows your maturity and experince in the hobby John...
  25. @Marvin Jenkins LOL I actually used to be a serious amateur bodybuilder for roughly 10 years from my early 20's to early 30's, and have trained with heavy weights since 13. But I STILL feel exhausted from carrying my silly big/heavy rig down then up all the stairs at my flats! LOL. ( strictly speaking, weight lifting is great for strength/size, but rubbish for cardiovascular fitness ) As for the lottery, my goodness wouldn't it be incredible!! I'd design and have built my dream observatory somewhere dark in UK, and have a second holiday property in south USA with an Observatory, and have some of the biggest most expensive 'scopes money could buy! Oh if only...
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