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ponytale

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About ponytale

  • Rank
    Star Forming

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Astronomy, Photography,
  • Location
    Perth, Australia ( Downunder)

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  1. I just saw this halo effect outside my house here in Perth Australia I have seen this before in the Uk but never this large , thought it was worth a post .
  2. Hi DIYR'S I HAVE BEEN OFF LINE FOR A WHILE ,HAVEING MOVED DOWNUNDER 2 YRS AGO. HAVE FINALLY GOT AROUND TO REMAKING MY SPLIT RING MOUNT AND THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE MY PROGRESS SO FAR. THE SPLIT RING AND BASE IS MADE OF 25MM PLYWOOD , THE DRIVE GEAR IS MADE FROM A CAR TIMING BELT WHICH HAS ZERO BACKLASH THIS ALLOWED ME TO CONSTRUCT A (GEAR WHEEL) IT ALL WORKS VERY EASILY,AND A LINEAR DRIVE SHAFT WHICH ALLOWS FOR STRAIGHT LENGTH OF THE BELT BONDED TO A GUIDED SLIDE ( SITS ON SLIDE ROD BETWEEN 2 PIECES OF PLY WITH CORESPONDING GROOVE ) WHICH IN TURN PICKS UP THE (SLED)ON THE THREADED ROD FOR THE S
  3. this video may help you to adjust your binos I posted it back in 2009 but still useful I hope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHtOJAgo-DM&feature=share&list=PLD1AF18073D445B80
  4. Here is my post regarding the Arduino rev 3 and motorshield rev 3 this is relativly new and there is little info out there for this shield, so here is what i have found out so far. it has the ability to drive 2 dc motors independently OR a stepper Motor with 4 or 8 wires from 5v up to 12volts as absolute max 18v. the lateset arduino package 1.01 is required to drive it , this has the necessary drivers and software to modify sketches etc . http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software I have a Nema 17 stepper with 1.8 degree steps and 6 wires , in my case the colours are standard Nema Colurs : Orange ,Blu
  5. Hi mike , my skate wheels are the black rubber type which are quite hard , they are nice and round and don't cog or flatspot ( i did read a comment when researching my project that the weight should be raised off the wheels when not in use to prevent flatspots) , i do have a 2.5 mm thick aluminium edge on my scope which is counter sunk screwed in place . for a smooth movement . I am working on the idea of using 2 halves of a 26" alloy wheel rim off a bycycle as a running face/edge , they are very strong and true and have machined faces and would support a lot of weight with only a minimum
  6. I used a webber BBQ,( the Kettle type) and cut a plywood circle that sat inside the rim (or you could use a bigger board with 3 blocks to locate inside) on top of that board i had another board with a central bolt so i could revolve the mirror instead of walking around it , it worked very well for me , ps i did need a bag of sand hanging below to add weight for stability, i could remove the board and use the BBQ as needed.
  7. Hi Mike , The Blue Belt was just some tie down i had to hand to test if the idea would convert the motion to linear over enough distance /time to use a threaded rod to push pull the belt in a straight /linear motion and still allow a reset by slipping the cradle on the belt , i have given up on this idea as there is likely to be too much backlash . as i intend to do short lunar and solar photography eventually, a few minutes of tracking is enough, regards driving the roller , i have read quite a few reports of slippage at the roller / contact point , so i am probably not going down that route
  8. Hi Sky badger: in answersto your queries : The aluminium Band is fixed with countersunk screws which are filled with epoxy putty and filed smooth, they are placed so as they miss the rollers in the most used zones such as perpendicular and about 30 degrees apart as the scope barely moves over 5 minutes whilst manually tracking i have not found it a problem . the blue belt is the best way i could convert the rotation into a linear movement as i was intending to use threaded rod linked to the belt to the drive motor , i may just drive one of the rollers instead ? . the front horseshoe is 2 x
  9. thought you might like to see my horshoe mount prototype, http://youtu.be/KCp-uk46v_Q
  10. Thanks Peter , i suspected as much , never hurts to ask though .
  11. Hi all , I finally adapted an old 102mm meade ota into a solar scope with a badder film filter, I had it in time for the transit of venus but here in Perth australia we were completly cloud covered for the whole day , pooh pooh, I did manage a short glimmer of sun this past Friday and readily saw two distinct sun spots before the clouds rolled in for more rain and heavy winds of 125kms per hour, the forecast is for more cloud and storms for at least a week !!! this is what happens when i buy new kit. I can't wait to have another look and take some pics . ps is there any other filter /film tha
  12. waiting for an update good luck!!! Tony:)
  13. hI Gina , just thinking about your cold finger problem, hope this is not stupid in any way as electrical circuits are not my area , why not use copper cable with insulation to make cold finger perhaps with copper disks (eg small copper coin ground flat and soldered on to each end or even several small cables that you can thread around the circuit boards , if the small circuits that power the chip can deliver the energy to heat it why can't the same sort of cuircuits diisipate it if there are conected to a cooling device? sorry if it sounds too simplistic but thats the 1st way i always think ab
  14. Gina would it be possible to use a vacuum cleaner bag the 5 layer paper type with the lens poking through the inlet hole and the fan sucking through the camera spaces and exhausting outside of your cooler box , I am sure air will flow better being drawn in than pushed out eg: car radiators . these bags are supposed to filter down to micron levels to remove allergens and pollen , also some anti static spray to repel particulates ? would be useful . regards Tony
  15. see this link below it will do everthing you need if you pay the gold membership , i did and it is great. http://settingcircles.robertwillett.com/
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