GiorgioF

Good job in which I'm really intrigued.

I have same camera and similar lens. 

Usually my setting are 75gain with 60" (RGB).

Are you using the same?

Just out of curiosity, are you going to take also luminance? Just my thoughts, 4 hours is really a lot for color channel why don't invest in L looking for details?

Clear sky!

Really nice capture!

Many thanks for let me know about this subject I was ignoring.

It is really interesting subject and as far as I can see it should be also interesting to process.

I'm really interested in how you take out a so nice blue/Oiii from the master.

Would you mind to share some details on your flow?

Many thanks and clear sky!

Still a 20 or more days before enjoying the first summer nebula pass over the roof.

As many other fellow, this is the time to rearrange, clean, fix and prepare the setup for the nebula season.

In the meanwhile, some shot from lost corner in the hard drive, left there, are a good way to spend some time.

Awaiting the clear sky.

I should thank you for the chat.

Tonight I will check the orthogonality of the focuser as last chance and let you know.

Did you check the 200p with the reego?

I've rechecked my SM but it is right in the center under the drawtube of the focuser.

To center the secondary I've used a webcam with a 1,25" noose and the small software mire de collimation (french, Sorry for my maybe wrong spelling) over sharpcap liv image. I maybe have done a not perfect photo with mobile phone....

Here a couple of pictures, on the fly.

For both, primary mirror in low side.

Not the best focus maybe but can assure the cross of Cheshire is spot in the middle of the primary donut sticker and the secondary is perfect in the middle of the drawtube.

The three clips of the PM are visible.

What I can't understand is the reego with the black band in th PM direction 

On 19/06/2021 at 09:58, alan potts said:

I have moved this as I feel you will get a better response in the scopes section, I left a link as well.

Alan

Thank you Alan 

Yes, my bad to post in the wrong (not correct) section.

On 19/06/2021 at 13:15, Clarkey said:

It's not actually a laser, but an LED collimator.

TS 2" Led RC Collimator | First Light Optics

I have just got one for my RC8 (when I am brave enough to collimate it!) I have not used it to collimate my newtonian, but I think the idea for the primary is to get it centred with the centre of the reego - using the red light. If you move the reego out, you should be able to line it up the secondary by keeping the spacing around the outside of the mirror equal all the way round.

To be honest a Cheshire is just as easy - which is what use.

Thank you Clarkey for the support.

The reason of willing to use the reego is the capability to check collimation even in the dark without problem.

When I bought it, instructed by vendor I made all concentric (drawtube, secondary and primary) with the view of all the reego clear.

If I check with Cheshire, the image look like an aim target: everything is concentric but this is not in compliance with the literature: being f5, a little offset have to show the reflection of the secondary a little out of centre.

Reverse, if I do the collimation with Cheshire and follow all the rules, I can get a good result compared with all images you can see around on the web (photo though the pinhole of Cheshire).

If li check now with reego, I'm unable to see all the reflection of collimator but some part is like cancel(say on the right a kind of black quarter of moon and on the left missing the reego reflection).

Wow Carole. This is an amazing result for a B8 sky.

The quantity of O3 is superb 

It is an unusual rendition for colours but I don't dislike it.

The delicate details of the durst in the between the two nebula is amazing me as well as the shades of the gases.

The small scope has a lot of bullet to shot!

Hello to all.

Could someone help me?
I'm collimating a newton f5 (GSO 150/750) with reego collimator. I'm not exactly clear on the pattern I should see through the small hole in the collimator
Can someone upload a picture, for my better understanding?
Frankly, I'm getting different result with Cheshire and reego....
Many thanks!

Lately very busy for many reason and unable to save moments for my hobby.

I cut one night of decent sky and make a try on a subject not so easy for a short focal lenght.

TS80/480 triplet at full FL with ts flattener 1x and asi1600mm.

RGB 15x120" each plus L 120x60" at Gain 75.

Guiding the eq6-r with phd2 and NINA.

All the data processing was done in pixinsight 1.8.8 where the WBPP gave a huge help in managing the task .

A test "stealing" the acquisition parameter from other user with similar situation as mine.

Even in Bortle 7/8 it is possible to get quite nice result.

The rendition of this image, reduced for understandable reason, is not giving a great result. On this, I should think about to get some space maybe on AB.

I preferred to keep the background a little light but they s is personal choice.

Will be nice to get any suggestions it may help to improve both acquisition and postprocessing.

Clear sky to all!

Really excellent result! Could you post a light without crop? Just to understand the dimension of the subject in the frame.

Amazing one! What gain did you set for it? The amount of details is wonderful

Thank you to Martin and Peter for the kind comments.

I tried to rerun some adjustments and the result is attached.

Keep patience on me. I have some difficulty in understanding colours (colourblind) and any, any suggestions is really appreciate. Not only for colours.

Clear sky. 

Tareq thanks for all the details.

I can answer for my experience. We have similar situation. I'm under b8 sky too and can't travel outside of the city (covid limitations and no time....) So I must enjoy my backyard too.

I attach here one try of the same subject, with 139/50 and 180" exposure. My telescope is a f4,8 (80/480 reduced). The shot is a stack of 20 minutes without proper calibration and without a lot of postprocessing. It is just to verify the data of the first night on the subject and correct something if needed before go on. Usually I go for a minimum of 5 hours per channel in narrowband.

Details are coming out despite missing the flat and the dark. 

I was also thinking that short exposure are not enough but experience gave me the evidence. stars are more thin and dynamic range increase. I'm using asi1600mm and my filter Halpha is 7nm, baader. Sincerely, I envy yours as it's more narrow but can't quantify the difference  because I never try them. Surely a 3nm will be better but I must sell one kidney to buy a set of them.

Anyway you may try once and see. Even with an achromatic lens you can achieve great result as the focus is only on one wavelength (not three as in RGB).

People more experienced than me could surely give bette and more detailed comments and suggestions. I'm a novice too.

13 minutes ago, peter shah said:

Moisture on the sensor has left a stain across it....It just needs the sensor cleaning and re-purging....not difficult to do....just a pain to get it done!.

Agree. Done once. Now, I decided to pay the cost but cleaning and purge, by the shop.

Tareq, don't mind if I look not polite but I think you have done the noise reduction with a slightly "heavy hand".

The 1600mm don't need so strong noise reduction. Instead, try a lower gain, say 139/50 and also less light duration. With 180" you not only get less noise if your total integration time is still about 3 hours but also the dynamic range will improve.

And details will jump out, especially from the Flame.

Clear sky!

Amazing result. Can't stop myself to watch at that tiny filament of durst

I would like to share this image with you all. Finally I feel satisfy with the result.

All the setup has worked in an almost perfect way and despite my bortle 8 sky, I was able to collect 15 hours in the three filter.

A nice "first light" for the 80ed triplet.

For sure, without the help of Tiziana I can never get the color in a good balance. She is always my eyes and my inspiration.

Whenever sughestiins, all are welcome.

Great one! Long integration always pay back.

You should give a try to starnet++. I'm seeing good result using it on linear stage.

26 minutes ago, endless-sky said:

Thank you, Giorgio!

I thought the backfocus was supposed to be 55mm and I have been struggling to get it right. But then I saw on the website of teleskop-service in Germany that the backfocus for their 4 elements reducer is actually 61mm. Mine looks a lot similar to that one, despite it being a different brand.

You saying that it needs to be 61mm also confirms the theory.

Next Full Moon I will give it a try increasing it to 61mm and see things get better, thanks!

Everybody got that info but it's a NEW reducer and the BF has been changed. Mine now is 60,5 (fine tune due filters) and all field is flat like you can't believe. More, mind to do not tight touch the fixing screw on rotators due to tilt issue. Tight the right without to much. Feel it.

Clear sky!

Pleasant and nice result.

Still some egged star (small, top right) but easy to manage.

Did you try to keep the backfocus of the 0,8x ad 61mm from sensor?

Excellent! I love the sharpness and the amount of detail. Surely your sky is better than mine (bortle 8).

I'm taking it with almost same setup but with the 80mm triplet but can't get the same sharpness. I hope you will add some O3 and S3.