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Jojo204

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Posts posted by Jojo204

  1. Hey all,

    Unfortunately today after some time I was about to go out to do some observing however it seems my Nexstar+ Handset has gone poof. I resetted it holding the celestron logo button while turning on to no avail. I decided to firmware flash it. I plugged it into my PC, and on screen it displayed "BOOT LOADER Serial Invalid Pkg: 0002". The number has varied between 0002, 0088 and 00AA. I then got it to the stage where it said User Keypad Entry underneath BOOT LOADER Serial. However when the software started updating the handset the message on screen changed to BOOT LOADER Serial, PASS THROUGH OFF. And the "off" would switch to "19.2K" then back to off repeatedly. I think 19.2K was something to do with the file size. After a while of the software being stuck on the first package at 3%, it said memory corrupted and cancelled the update. 

    Is there anyway to restore this? Or do I have to look into buying a new handset? Regards.

  2. 1 hour ago, Mr niall said:

    The 120 is a cmos not a ccd but yes you're on the right lines.

    Thank you so much for the quick explanation! Really helpful! Yes the sensor size makes sense now! I’ve been doing the entire videoing and stacking process but with a dslr and frankly I haven’t had the chance to actually have some good clips. Mainly just short 2-5 second clips to ‘document’ my first time seeing them! So yes these are insufficient and I’m looking forward to improve!

    thanks once again!

  3. Hi all,

    until now I have been using my DSLR to do astrophotography with some pleasing results. But now I’ve decided to have my go with the planets, which I find just as interesting as DSO’s!

    Jupiter and Saturn look good observing through my 6SE! I get nice detail and moons visible. When I connect my DSLR, in live view, the detail shows up and is quite nice. However when I take a photo, the result is just a sandy coloured blob with no detail and considerable noise.

    This led me to recently purchase a ZWO ASI 120MC which I believe is a CCD Camera? I was just wanting to know the main differences in between DSLR imaging and CCD imaging in terms of results. I understand that their will be lesser noise but what about resolution?

    Thanks!

  4. 1 hour ago, bobro said:

    That's showing more colour. It looks as though flats haven't been used in stacking. Using flats really helps with targets having gradual variation in brightness as the true variation comes through. Any chance of adding flats if they have not not already been added?

    Possible but it's best taking them right after the light frames!

  5. Hi all,

    I really didn’t know whether to put this here or in the Observing or Star Party or something forums but here goes.

    What is the best area in the Exmoor hills to do astrophotography? I know there are quite a few private areas so do you guys know any public areas that are easily accessible by car for observing and photographing the Milky Way?

    So would need the south direction clear! 

    Thank you!

  6. 19 hours ago, Stu said:

    13th/14th will be ok, as Nigella says it won't be affected much by the moon, infact having the moon relatively close can help you perceive more colour in it.

    Jupiter will be at its highest at around 10.30pm, with the added benefit of an Io moon and shadow transit a bit later on. Io starts transiting around 11.15pm and the shadow transit starts just before midnight, finishing at just before 1.30am if you fancy a late one!

    Ah ok thanks! Will decide tonight! 😂

  7. Hi all,

    I have two free sunny weekends coming up this month and am looking at making the journey down to the Exmoor, Devon for some truly dark skies! Unfortunately this weekend I will be rushed for time (6/7th) and next weekend looks to be completely moonlit (13/14th). I was wondering when the best time to view jupiter this year is and if I don’t do it these weekends then if I could try again? Because I’m going away after next weekend and coming back in August. Will this be too late to try Jupiter/Saturn or would it not be too different to July?

    Thank you!

  8. On ‎17‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 23:21, Cosmic Geoff said:

    I would suggest using a dedicated planetary camera e.g. a ASI120MC and cropping to 320x240 pixels to boost the frame rate. Take a video of several thousand frames and set the stacker to use the best 20% or so.  Also use an atmospheric dispersion corrector (ADC) to counteract the dispersion which gives some colour fringing in your image. As a cheap but inferior alternative to an ADC, try adjusting the red & blue alignment in the processing software.

    If it's any consolation, a lot of my Saturn images don't show the division in the rings clearly either.

    Seeing is also a major factor, so keep trying.

    

    Doesn't seem too expensive, definitely looking into it!

  9. Not really, no. 

    But it's not just black and white. Well yes it is, but hear me out, whenever I look at a nebula they don't just look black and white to me. When I actually try to see some colour I realise they are just that, black and white, but for some reason they seem as if they have the faintest colour. 

    Maybe it's just my head colouring them in 😂

    However on the Orion Nebula I have noticed the faintest colour during very good conditions from my garden here in the south west! 

    Clear Skies!

    • Like 2
  10. 1 hour ago, Paul73 said:

    Given that Saturn barely gets above the horizon at the moment, anything that clearly shows a disc and the rings is a good result! You are shooting through a lot of wobbly light polluted atmosphere when it is that low.

    Is this a single frame? If so try stacking multiple frames. I’m new to imaging so I’ll leave it to the experts to advise on stacking.  

    Paul

    Thank you! It is a short 5 second video, stacked in Autostakkert 2. Registax crashed when trying to stack it so. 

    I will wait until they get higher! :)

  11. 2 hours ago, astrosathya said:

    Its good for a beginners image. Here's what you could do to imrpove it.

    1) Wait until it rises to almost right above your head, or as high as it can get.

    2) Use cropped video mode on your camera, this way you'll also get the highest frame rate. This will help you with Lucky Imaging, that is getting those tiny good moments between air turbulence.

    3) Take a video for about 1 to 1.5 minutes.

    4) Use a Barlow of good quality, preferably an ED Barlow.

     

    Thank you, yes the turbulence was very noticable with my 2X Barlow. It was a short 5 secondish video. 

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