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About Grumman

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    Merstham, Redhill
  1. @Cozzy My pleasure! I am glad my experiments are helpful to the community! ;) Regards, Thanasis
  2. Clear Skies last night with a bright moon at 80% of it's Waxing Gibbous circle it was hard to resist not to take a photo! 1000 stacked photos Camera: Canon EOS 100D Telescope: SkyWatcher 72ED DS-Pro ISO: 100 AV: 1/15 sec Location: Merstham, UK Date: 14-02-2019
  3. Here is my submission of the Orion constellation taken with my Nikon Coolpix B700 Bridge Camera. Equipment: Nikon Coolpix B700 Bridge Camera | Focal Length: 9.9mm | ISO 1600 | 4 subs @ 15sec exposure | No Flats, No Darks, No BIAS Post Production: DSS | Star Tools | Adobe Lightroom Date: 2019-01-28 Location: Merstham, UK
  4. Hello all, I just wanted to share something that I recently found out and it has worked for me like a treat! I have a Sky-Watcher 72ED and the Field Flattener for it. I had to purchase a "special" adapter ring for my DSLR which is actually a Canon Bayonet adapter but instead of a standard T2 threads, it comes with M48 (2") threads so it will fit to the Field Flattener's M48 thread. I have a fully screwed imaging train which makes it challenging for framing objects properly. I was thinking of having a manual rotator in the setup so I can rotate the camera and properly frame my targets but, the issue with this scope/field flattener combination is that it does not give you enough focuser travel. By adding a rotator in the solution it would add around 10mm of back-focus meaning that i could never be able to achieve focus with the current setup. I looked closer at my ring adapter that i purchased from FLO and it seems that it has 3 (M2.5) grub screws that seem to be holding something... I took a screw driver and to my surprise, the grub screws are holding what seems to be a rotation ring! I have bought some M2.5 thumb screws and presto! - I have a manual rotator built in on the ring adapter and it only costed me £3 for a set of 4 thumb screws from eBay! I hope this post helps someone else who is looking for a manual rotator but they can't afford one (as they cost around £60) or they do not have enough focus travel with their setup. Sky-Watcher DSLR-M48 Ring Adapter M2.5 Thumb Screws (pack of 4) Regards, Thanasis
  5. @petevasey If you are shooting in RAW format, White-Balance does not matter as the the White-Balance data are not applied to the RAW image (they are there as a reference) I always use "Daylight" setting when doing astro-photography. If you are shooting JPEG in the other hand, the White-Balance is applied to the photo and it is very difficult to change it in post production.
  6. Thank you @SyedT & @geordie85 for your replies! Funny enough now that you mentioned it, there were 3 overhead electrical wires when I took those shots as they were taken the same night from the same spot... Thanks a lot !
  7. Hello, Lately I have noticed that I am getting a horizontal line across bright stars in my photos. This is not the case with all the subs... I can be 30minutes down the sequence and then couple of subs will have those lines across bright stars and then they go away... I have attached some examples - any Idea what might be causing this? Equipment used: Sky-Watcher 72ED Sky-Watcher 0.85x FF-FR Canon EOS 100D non-modified Astronomik CLS-CCD Filter Regards, Thanasis
  8. Thank you @Adam J and @sloz1664 for you replies. A filter wheel does fit between the FF and the Camera but I am not keen buying one yet, as the CCD is a color one and I only need a Light Pollution filter to be honest... I might invest in one in the near future...
  9. Thank you @Merlin66 for the helpful info! I managed to track them down and they are on the actual sensor. Because I use a SW 72ED and the wonky SW 0.85x flattener, i have to screw the camera to the flattener using the T2 to 2" adaptor that the camera comes with. This does not give me any room to mount any filters as the combination of FF/Telescope gives no room for focusing so distances are tight... I had an "Idea" to remove the protective window from the camera which is held in place by a C-Mount screw and screw there a C-Mount to 1.25" adapter and mount my UV/IR Cut filter on top. Then the T2 to 2" adapter can be mounted on the camera and attached to the SW FF and all the rest onto the focuser... I was very careful when doing that but i definitely introduced dust in the sensor thus the issue I was having... Thanks for all your help! Thanasis
  10. I just bought my first CCD camera (2nd hand out of eBay) and it is an Altair Hypercam IMX178C I have received the camera and it looks OK without any signs of wear. I have tried to take some flat frames with it and it seems there are some dust spots in the frame. I have cleared the scope, field flattener as well as the CCD IR window and I am still getting those... When my DSLR is connected, I can't see any of these in the flat frames... Any idea where these might be coming from?
  11. Hello, Here is my submission of the M2 Globular Cluster. Constellation: Aquarius Distance from Earth: 55,000 light-years Equipment: SkyWatcher 72ED DS-PRO 420mm f/5.8 Refractor | Canon EOS 100D (Unmodified) | Astronomic CLS-CCD Filter Exposure: Unguided 90subs of 45sec | ISO 1600 PostProduction: Deep Sky Stacker | Star Tools Date: 2018-11-01 Location: Merstham, UK
  12. Thanks for the reply @Stub Mandrel! I see what you mean... I might have gone too far with the 1.5mm and it started reversing the whole curvature... I will try and do it in smaller steps and see if it makes any difference. TA!
  13. I wish I have seen this post earlier before spending £170 on the SW Field Flattener.... I have fitted the FF to the scope and attached my Canon 100D DSLR on it with the correct T-ring and I am getting around 40% Curvature according to CCDInspector, where before without the FF I was having curvatures of around 130%!!! - So for starters it is doing something... I have purchased some .5mm and 1mm thick spacing rings and I installed them between the FF and the T-Ring. I have done some tests and with a 1.5mm ring the curvature increased to 44.6% which is the opposite of what I expected to see... It seems like it needs a thinner T-Ring so the camera sensor can come closer to the FF .... ? Has anyone done any tests with a DSLR than can shed some light?
  14. Hello, Here is my submission of the Dumbbell Nebula (M27). Please excuse the out of focus stars at the edges as I do not have a field flattener yet! Constellation: Vulpecula Distance from Earth: 1,360 light-years Equipment: SkyWatcher 72ED DS-PRO 420mm f/5.8 Refractor | Canon EOS 100D (Unmodified) | Astronomic CLS-CCD Filter Exposure: Unguided 90subs of 30sec | ISO 1600 PostProduction: Deep Sky Stacker | Star Tools Date: 2018-10-03 Location: Merstham, UK
  15. Thank you Neil! To be honest, it did not affect any of my 120sec subs nor my 300sec subs I took; all seem to be fine to be honest... https://www.skyandtelescope.com/online-gallery/orion-nebula-m42-taken-from-my-light-polluted-front-yard/ I was just curious on why the spikes are there and now I know! Thank you!
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