Blackrose

Everything seems pretty round and symmetrical to me. Is this possible because I couldn't find the correct backfocus? I am using a DSLR with the flattner, so it should be automatically in working distance from sensor as the company claims. I use the 72 1x flattener from TS.

Hello astrofirends, I have a TS APO 72/432 Telescope and after I used it for the first light, my stars look like the stars kids draw. A hexagonal halo, especially around bigger stars. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong? I use the 1x flattener and an IDAS V4 mounted in front of the flattener. Thanks in advance, CS Kami DSC_6696.NEF

I think you might be right, I have to see if this fix works and I'll get back to you. https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/569527-is-this-pinched-optics/

Yes its the case. 0.8 for RA and 0.4-0.5 DEC. But again judging by numbers of my optical terrain, it should translate to an error of 1 or maximum 2 pixels in my final image. What we are seeing here is more than that. and there is also a very bad color fringing biased to one side, which should not be the case with triplet design. Full res -> https://ibb.co/r4yxzTT

I think you might be right. I looked the topic up and saw some promising stuff and as you said an easy fix. I'll do it and wait for the first CS to see if it's working. There was a reason that previous owner kinda gave away this telescope rather cheaper than usual to me. I should have known https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/569527-is-this-pinched-optics/

Dear Astrofriends, I have a relatively old EQ5goto, a TSQ 65 telescope, a D800 standard imaging camera and an ASI120MM mini guidecamera with Orion 50mm guidescope controlled via ASIAIR. Stars in every photo I take with this setup, turn out to be elongated in the same general direction. Since I'm using ASIair there aren't any log files I can provide, but the curve is relatively smooth and reproducible. It generally resides under 2 arc-second total and RA Error is normally around 0.8 arc-seconds. I know that guiding curve is not everything, but I don't think my stars should look like as bad as this at the end of the day. I have a very good balance and neither dec nor RA axis fall, when clutches are released. I even tried being a little east heavy to no avail. I kinda ran out of options to figure out the problem. Since I'm an electrical engineer I have the necessary skills to open the mount and tune it and grease it, if you guys think that would solve my problem. The photo looks as attached. Would appreciate any kind of insight. Thanks in advance, Clear skies, Kamyar

Dear astrofriends, I have recently modified my Nikon D5300 camera with tutorial from lifepixel. Everything went smoothly and now I have a modded camera. The only problem is now, that I can only focus via live-view and when doing by the eye-piece, autofocus or manual focus both fail. So generally there are two main concerns. 1) How do I make the focus(autofocus) work for the eye-piece again? 2) How can I make sure that the sensor is still parallel to the opening? The sensor board is spring loaded and you can control the height of sensor in comparison to your opening, via adjusting three screws. So for an extra turn of a screw, you'll lose the parallelism. How do I precisely achieve a parallel sensor with respect to the opening? Are there any tutorials that I can't find about this issue? Thanks in advance, Clear skies