Ande

That’s really good to know 🙂

4 hours ago, fozzybear said:

have a look at these

https://www.dewcontrol.com/Dew_Heater_Straps_-_All_Sizes/p3099125_14674363.aspx

They look to be excellent value. And a choice of connectors too. Thanks for the heads-up. I’ll see about getting an order in.

4 hours ago, AstroKeith said:

I looked and don't believe so. The Eagle4 can.

I think you’re right. I could have sworn I’d seen a YouTube video outlining dew heater control in a software update. It must have been wishful thinking followed by a vivid dream 😂

1 hour ago, jacko61 said:

I have 5 RVO 12 volt straps of varying sizes on my C8, ZS73 and guidescopes. Can't recommend them highly enough. 

RVO Heater Bands With Integrated Controller - Rother Valley Optics Ltd

Graeme

They look just the ticket. Thank you 😊 

1 hour ago, AstroKeith said:

You shouldn't plug a dew heater into those 12v sockets. They will run at 100% and a) overheat your optics, b) run down any batteries and c) introduce volt drop on the main feed into your ASIAIR Plus.

I’m fairly sure there is a menu in the ASIAIR app that allows control over how much the straps draw.

Thanks everyone. But it’s adapters I’m specifically trying to avoid. Was hoping to snare some straps with native 2.1mm’s already fitted. I may have to go the DIY route as an absolute last resort.

Looking for some dew heaters that have 2.1mm plugs. I have an ASIAIR Plus, which boasts 2.1mm sockets, but all of the heater straps seem to come with either RCA plugs, or the cheapo ones off Amazon tend to use USB. I know I can buy adapters, but it’s all extra expense, and additional junk hanging off the telescope. Any options anywhere?

1 hour ago, Stu said:

On my 8” f8 I have a couple of additional rings and a dovetail running between them, wide side outwards. I use this to carry a weight which I can slide up and down to adjust the balance.  I just happened to have the rings available so it made sense, and being f8 it needs a bit more weight than an f6. Otherwise the magnetic knife holder is a great idea.

That looks to be an excellent solution. The scope I bought actually came with additional rings married to a dovetail. It’s certainly another option if I can’t beef up the friction brake.

2 hours ago, scarp15 said:

Hi, interesting, I had developed a similar conundrum with my VX14 dob mount friction brake. Similar to yourself, it is weighted down with finder scope, telrad, then extension tube or paracorr and usually a hefty 2" low power wide field E.P. Required max tightening and would still start to motion backwards. Initially I thought that the PTFE bearings were worn (being a few years old), or maybe some grease or such like on the trunnion block. 

Anyhow I did consult by email with OOUK, whom had been helpful and like you, slid the OTA upwards and also ensured that the tension screws are such that the PTFE brake bearings are completely flush in gripping against the the trunnion block - please refer to picture one.

One other suggestion was to create a course surface on the PTFE bearings by using some fine sandpaper, thus potentially creating better grip and stiction. The problem here is that it can pick up residue paint off the trunnion - refer to picture two. 

The next thing I employed was to beef up the bearings slightly with the addition of a 2mm deep PTFE washer as sourced off ebay - picture three.

Well in part because of the circumstance with the PTFE bearings, OOUK kindly sent out replacement bearings, I have switched the old ones with these and retained the washers. By itself it wasn't quite enough and so incrementally slid the tube upwards a little more (and tilting the focuser angled a bit more upwards) thus finally achieving good balance and without over tightening.  when as you point out, the tube is angled more upwards then it retains position also with light compact E.P's. 

Therefore just keep tweaking the adjustments, check the alignment screws are set correctly, that there is no wax or grease residue, but mostly just nudge the OTA upwards yet a little more. The jury's out concerning the benefit for adding the two washer bearings but hey-ho. 

The final picture inserted illustrates the not quite concluded balance proportion.

As a footnote, OOUK stipulate that the PTFE bearings ought never show signs of wear, therefore as tough as old boots after years of extensive use.

 

Thanks for the extensive reply. I had considered “roughing up” the PTFE washers, but now you’ve pointed out the possibility of losing paint I’m not so sure.  I’d also thought about gluing good, old fashioned tap washers to them to see how that might pan out? You’ve certainly given me plenty to think about anyhow. I’ll have a bit of a play tomorrow in the daylight.

2 hours ago, Mr Spock said:

Try a magnetic knife rack attached to the tube. Have a weight you can move up and down.

I believe OO's solution to this problem is a friction brake you can purchase separately.

That’s a pretty good idea, and something I can do “on the fly”.  Thanks 🙂

2 hours ago, johninderby said:

Are you balancing it with the tube at a 45 degree angle? If you balance it with the tube horizontal then you will have balance problems in use.

I probably balanced it at about 70 degrees, so not ideal. I shall retry at 45. Thank you 🙂

Hi all. Recently purchased a VX10 dob, and have just used it for the first time. Once I’ve got a decent sized eyepiece in, plus my RACI and a Telrad I’m struggling to balance the scope.  It was sagging whilst looking at M42, so I moved it back in the mounting rings to achieve balance. However, once I swung it upwards for a look at the Pleiades it wanted to swing back the other way again. I’ve tightened up the friction knob as tight as this 17-stone bloke can, but to no avail. Any tips for making the clutch more effective? I can’t keep sliding the OTA up and down in the mounting rings.

With global warming it very much appears that clear nights are on the decline. Is there a website anywhere that has catalogued the amount of clear nights per annum over the last few decades or so? If there is, I’d be very interested to see some of the data.

Thanks to all respondents, and apologies for being absent from my own thread.  Life went a little mad for a while…..

I noticed that well drained grass seemed to be a recurring theme, so I shall definitely add that to my checklist.  I actually have a site in mind that enjoys both elevation, and shelter from the wind. It is a disused, semi-circled quarry which would afford great views, particularly E,S,W with plenty enough of northerly view to get a decent PA. I just need to have a drive up there at night and make sure that it doesn’t become a [removed word] spot or similar once darkness descends.  I can do without extra “moons” being on show 😂. 

Apart from the obvious dark sky, what would you consider the ideal attributes for a dark site?  For example, would higher ground (less atmosphere to look through but inherently windier) trump a lower, more protected site. How about the ground?  Would concrete/asphalt (possibly giving out stored heat to disturb the air) be better than grass that might be sodden, and prone to belching out a lot more moisture? 
 

What other factors would be worth consideration?  My garden affords poor easterly views, appalling northerly, moderate southerly, and non-existent westerly.  And light pollution is also a major hazard. Consequently, I’m in need of a dark(er) site, so would like to try and source a decent place.  I’m just thinking that if I can find the optimum set of variables, then I can narrow things down accordingly. 

Cuiv the Lazy Geek is probably my go to.  Also find Astrobiscuit to be the most entertaining, although his videos are fairly infrequent.  Dr. Becky also excellent. 

I had to dig real deep 😂

An absolutely stunning photograph. Have you ever revisited Meissa and got in a little closer?  I would love to see your efforts if you have.  Such a gorgeous region of the sky 🙂

Hi Martyn, and welcome to SGL. A little bit of advice……. Take your wallet down the garden, and bury it as deeply as you can. Do NOT mark the spot. You’ll thank me later 😉

Well, I’m just shy of 60, but expect to be well into my 80”s by the time the clouds clear.

A bumper haul….

An ASIAIR PLUS, to replace my PRO, a William Optics Dovetail, and a ZWO Dovetail Clamp for the ASIAIR.  Very disappointed with the clamp, as it has been very poorly designed. Of a possible 8 orientations, only 2 are viable. So the way that I intended to use it is a non-starter unless I get all Heath-Robinson, which is exactly the situation I was trying to avoid when I bought the bloody thing.

33 minutes ago, MiladyB said:

…… simple illustrations…

 

You’ve found my entry point 😂

I think the OP may have ran for the hills 😂

Following on from what @nephilim posted, I would definitely consider getting your expectations in order before purchasing a telescope.  As previously stated, the pictures on the box will be a long way from reality. There is an absolutely superb thread on this site that compares expectation (or Hubble images), versus reality, and it’s the first post here: 

All we need now is a biblical parting of the clouds 🙂