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About JayS_CT

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    New England
  1. EmuHead, Sorry for the delay.. Don't think it's a bypass but adding a better grounding (which I felt was lacking) back to the battery attachment to the case.. Seems to work! Glad you were able to make the connection! Jay S.
  2. Davide, First. This is very precise soldering and wiring. If you don't have experience with doing circuit board wiring, or have the right equipment, you may want to see if there's a friend who can do it for and with you. Also, doing this will void any warranty from SkyWatcher. OK that said. See my images above your pictures.. Start by pointing the LED itself the same direction it is pointed in mine. Pay attention to the R0 and R1 notations on the board. You have to attach (solder) a very small (preferably solid core) thin wire as I describe in the instructions. I tried to make the instructions very very precise. In theory, it would likely work soldering a wire to the back as well.. just make sure it's the same connection spot on the front. Jay S.
  3. All, Came up with an alternative method, but requires you taking the illuminator apart (not difficult - screws are under Max-Min label) and have some fine soldering skills. In the first pic, assembly on the left is fully illuminated with stock illuminator, the unit on the right is after the mod (sorry color balance is off).. Dimmer works fine and light will go "off" when turned to Min position. The second image is the modification. Note the wire (actually an old LED leg) running alongside the upper side of the LED. It is soldered to the positive (+) connector of the LED on the circuit board and hooked over the top of the circuit board. This makes better contact with the casing (which carries positive (+) ). It doesn't fix any issues with falling off (but someone above said they got a velcro assembly to work with the stock light). This is a "do at your own risk" project and I very strongly suggest you not attempt it if you're not comfortable soldering in very tight small areas. I can only attest that it worked very well for me. YMMV... I'm also sure it would also void any warranty you may have on the light.. There may be other variants of bringing more power from the positive (+) casing to the LED that others may come up with. Clear Skies
  4. May not be on the EQ5.. It's a single mini stereo cable port on the mount itself. Runs from there to the camera remote control port.. Exposure control in the handset or via the Synscan App if using the Synscan wireless.. but the port has to be on the controller. If you look at a pic of the EQ6-R, you'll see it on the face.. Jay S.
  5. Danny, I can control my EQ6-R from the house to attached deck, but like all WiFi, interference with other WiFi, walls, etc., all come into play. I think the EQ-5 has a SNAP port which will allow you to control a DSLR from the SynScan Pro wireless app as well. In addition, once you're connected to the PC/Mac, you can use something like SkySafari Pro 6 to control the telescope. In that case I run SynScan Pro (IOS/Andriod 4.4+) on a mobile device and tie the wireless in my MacBook Pro to the SkyWatcher Dongle. There are a few "gotchas" in the setup to be aware of. Currently, you can't run both SynScan Pro and SkySafari on a single IOS device (both will work on a single Android device), but I think it's being looked into. Also, under IOS, you have to not let the screen go to sleep mode, breaks the connection. For me though, running SynScan Pro on a mobile and SkySafari on the computer works great! Again, if your EQ5 has the SNAP port, you can pick up a Vello 3 Pin to micro/mini for DSLR work. CMOS like ZWO are a whole different story.. Hope this helps..
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