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adder001

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About adder001

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    North West England

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  1. I thought I'd have a bash at this. picture is made using canon eos1300d, orion starmax 90m on an EQ2 mount. 1000 frames avi mode using backyard eos and stacked in registax using the best 65% of the frames. only the wavelets and rgb align estimated for final picture.
  2. Thats brill. Thanks for the info
  3. well, there's a shock, total cloud & rain. no ISS transit imaging for me then
  4. Hi Folks, I thought I would let you know about my experience with support on Backyard EOS. I have only recently looked into using software since learning about pixel ratios and 5x recording from a dslr a while ago. I have evaluated Backyard EOS, APT and movie record. After a while I had a problem with Backyard EOS on my computer where it would not load so I emailed them and I must say the service and response was very good indeed. In a series of emails to Guylainn Rochon the problem was resolved. He emailed me back very quickly every time and soon had the problem resolved. Considering I only had the trial version and I hadn't actually paid for anything yet I think the support is first class. Anyway even though I had problems the support has persuaded me that backyard eos is the way to go and in all honesty I preferred the layout of backyard eos anyway, it just seems less cluttered and intuitive compared to APT.
  5. Hi There, First of all do not feel stupid. If the instructions supplied with your scope are anything like mine were then I'm not surprised that your a bit confused. As was said above, it is the mount that you need to align not the telescope OTA. Depending on what mount you have there may be a hole in the axis for you to look through to align with polaris, (mine doesn't its a basic EQ2 so all you can do is point the RA Axis to polaris by eye and that has to do (for visual observations this method is good enough). To adjust your mount you loosen your mount bolt on the tripod head(usually underneath and in between the three tripod legs at the top) and adjust your mount to the left or Right followed by adjusting the height of your mount using the adjustment knob on the mount or adjusting one of the legs of the tripod(It doesn't matter where the scope OTA is pointing). Once your mount is aligned with polaris(or more accurately celestial pole) you are done. The scope OTA is now moved to anywhere you want using the adjustment controls either unlocking the clutches for large movements the lock them and use the fine adjust controls for smaller movements. Remember the mount stays put once aligned, its the telescope that you move about. Hope that helps
  6. this is the filter I have. I believe it uses baader film.
  7. Cant be done on the camera I'm afraid, you need software such as backyard or APT to do it. Don't know why they designed it so it can show it to you on the lcd but not record it, seems a bit daft but thats the way it is. Suppose it can be got round by taking multiple exposures instead
  8. Hi There, I have a 1300d. It looks to me like your focus is off slightly. Make sure you use manual camera settings and play with your shutter speed and ISO and fine adjust your telescope. You can't control aperture as your telescope is now acting as your lens so your camera will show F0. I assume your 1st picture is Jupiter and its moons. To get a good Jupiter you will need a faster shutter speed to get detail as it is bright but you will lose the moons. The message about the lens not being attached is normal in video mode, just press the record button anyway, it still works. For focusing get yourself a bahtinov mask they are not expensive and make loads of difference, you can even make your own out of card see this website http://astrojargon.net/MaskGen.aspx?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1 Be aware that using video mode directly from the camera lowers the quality, to get better video try Backyard EOS to record video of the moon and planets etc. then select the best frames. It has a free trial for 30 days to test it. It allows 5x recording which gives you a much better resolution than what the camera records at. (PS The 5x or 10x button on the camera only zooms in the view on the LCD, it doesn't record that whereas the software does record at 5x if you select it).
  9. Yeah its a Kendrick full aperture solar filter with attachment ring.
  10. Thats the kind of thing that happens to me quite a lot, frustrating at the time but funny when I think back. Sods law definitely rules in astronomy. Better luck next time.
  11. I have been trying to photograph the space station for ages now with no real success. I have managed to capture with a video but way too overexposed so just like a white dot. I have managed also to use multiple snapshots giving the same result. I have read many articles and successes stories both on here and youtube etc., and they are all very informative. I have been looking at various sites to tell when the ISS makes a pass and I have found using http://transit-finder.com that on Sunday 16th it will make a solar transit from my location. I figure that this may be my best chance to get it. My main question so I do not waste this opportunity is what would be the best settings to use such as what shutter speed, ISO, Video mode 5x ?. My setup will be:- Orion Starmax Mak-Cass 90mm 1250mm focal length with Solar Filter. Canon 1300D dslr with T adapter connected to telescope (no eyepiece). Backyard Eos connected to camera. Any help would be greatly appreciated on this and also generally for non solar transits what would be the best settings for capturing the ISS. Some sites say use video mode others say use multiple burst but I cant find other info such as shutter or ISO etc. Thanks
  12. Hi There, I use one all the time it makes focusing so much easier although I've never tried it on a wide angle lens. I use it on my 300mm zoom. I originally bought it for my 90mm diameter telescope, I think it was about £12. It has 3 adjustable screw lugs which you effectively clamp to the outside of the tube. With my camera lens I use a lens hood which brings the diameter to about 70mm and just rest it on the front of the hood using the lugs. I take a 20sec exposure at 1600ISO of a bright star and then check the picture afterwards. You will get the classic pattern, then if adjustment necessary move the focus to the left and check the pattern. If it improves keeps going in that direction until correct, if worse go the other way. The whole process takes a few minutes but you get perfect focus. Here are some examples. The pattern doesn't show that well as a jpg but on the camera lcd it really shows up and also pictures of how it is attached
  13. I have had similar troubles. Initially I got better results with my raspberry pi camera and webcam adapter than I did with my dslr and I could not understand why. I could not believe a £20 basic camera on a Raspberry PI could be better than my £300 DSLR. Now after quite a bit of research I understand that it is the pixel ratio not just the dpi that matters. When you record a movie with the dslr firstly it records as a .MOV file which is a pain because you need .AVI for Registax and secondly it will compress the data so you lose quality. I use backyard EOS to record a series of stills that it saves as AVI+JPG and select 5X, also use RAW. This gives you close to a 1:1 pixel ratio (Using 5x from the camera only zooms your view on the LCD not the recording). You can adjust a lot of setting in there so you can see the results in live view and adjust focus, ISO, shutter speed etc until you are happy with what you are seeing. I have got much better results this way. Here is my latest Jupiter. It is made using Backyard Eos as stated above from 100 frames, I think the shutter was set to 1/20th sec @ ISO 100 and stacked in registax. It is by no means the best ever but it was quite low and loads of light pollution so not too bad. Hope that helps. BTW if you want to get the moons you need to use a slower shutter speed but that overexposes the planet and you lose detail. If you get good detail on the planet at faster shutter speeds you will lose the moons, so to get it all you will have to take separate images and overlay them. cheers
  14. Yeah its a real pain, not helped by my neighbors security lights either. Not sure about other lenses as I have never tried any others. Mine came with the camera and they are the standard kit lenses EFS 18-55mm and 75-300mm and I am very happy with them. The lower the F number would be the thing to look for but they start getting very expensive. I have never tried the Eagle nebula but if it is anything like the horsehead it is quite challenging because of the ha but it can be done, its just a case of what standard you would be happy with. I have been trying the horsehead for ages without much success but thats mainly because of rubbish seeing and light pollution etc., and now its getting a bit to low in the sky when its dark enough so I will probably try again next year.
  15. In the combination that you have stated I can say for sure no because that equipment is almost the same as what I have and using the telescope with the camera the focal length is too much, but all is not lost you can get some nice images of deep sky objects with just the camera mounted directly to the mount and just use your telescope for visual use on planets, moon etc. Thats what I use my 90 Mak Cass for. The camera is great, I have one with a standard kit lens of 55mm and a 75-300mm telephoto. The mount not good also no way to properly polar align that mount and the is a lot of backlash in the gears but the way I see it, use what you have and get the best results possible for that equipment. I have learned a great deal by trying different methods for improvement these range from drift alignment , using a home made polar scope to making all kinds of brackets and knobs to fine adjust legs and hubs etc, all to get good alignment. Do not despair though, If you don't expect super pin sharp stars with mega long exposures it is surprising just what you can do with this setup. This is how I now do it and I enclose some pictures for you to see if they meet your expectations. BTW These are all taken form my back yard which suffers from lots of light pollution. First get a rough focus on a bright star holding by hand and then mount the camera with 300 lens directly to the mount. Clip a bhatinov mask onto the lens hood and take a 20sec shot to see what focus is like, repeat until happy with focus. Now align mount to celestial pole as best you can visually. Now drift align to improve. This seems really complicated at first but when you get used to it, it is not bad, basically just point to a star in the south as low as you can and take a long exposure shot of 1minute. Set you motor to 4x speed or whatever you can do in one direction, then after 30 seconds change direction. after 1 minute check the photo. If you have a V shaped line then adjust the azimuth very slightly and repeat. keep doing this until the V becomes a line. Once you have this, move to a star in the east or west and repeat the procedure but instead of adjusting azimuth adjust the altitude. (Even writing that description sounds complicated but really once you get used to it, it really is very easy). Thats it your all done. Here is M51 that I took last night Andromeda that I took earlier in the year and Orion nebula I know that they are far from perfect but for an EQ2 mount I am very pleased and also I have enjoyed learning all the different techniques especially drift alignment, so its worthwhile doing. Here is my setup, you can see the red dot finder that I have attached to the RA axis of the mount to get close to polar align and the bahtinov mask on the second picture