david_taurus83

Thanks all. I should have said, this is with the 0.7 reducer. It plate solves at around 1470mm focal length I believe. The general ‘rule’ is that I should be binning at least 2x2 and I tried to software bin my first image by capturing 1x1 and software bin afterwards. Pixinsight didn’t like this however and gave me strange results ( probably user error on my part) so I just kept it at native pixel scale and I liked the result. 

11 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

That's a lot of detail and both green bow waves clearly visible. About as nice an image of the space brain I've seen.

It’s very strong in OIII. I usually use Ha as a luminance on the combined channels with narrowband images to help tidy up the noise but it didn’t need it with this. Oxygen was prob as strong as the hydrogen to be fair.

Just now, Mr Green said:

The File has literally just been copied from the folder it was saved to via the ASIAir.

The ASIAir automatically puts the Lights, Flats, Bias etc within there own files on the USB stick connected to the AIR.

Ah I see, I think that’s the problem. Seen somebody else have a similar issue. Save to ASIAir memory when capturing and then transfer to the USB stick.

Have you tried shortening the file name? That extension path looks very long.

Only my second picture with this scope but I think I have been converted to SCT’s now! Taken over 7 nights over the last couple of months or so. All 3 minute subs at 1x1 binning. AZEQ6 has been performing great lately, guiding like a champ even though the image scale is 0.5” or thereabouts.

9.5 hours of Ha and 11 hours of OIII (Astrodon 5nm’s)

Processed 2 versions, traditional HOO and another with a little more emphasis on the OIII. Can’t decide which one I prefer, maybe the first one.

I swapped my 460EX for an ASI533MM and it’s been great. Can still use 1.25” filters and take 3 minute narrowband subs. No need for darks, just master bias and dither.

Also the Canadian forest fires have sent smoke across the Atlantic so seeing and transparency will be poor. Hence all the pictures of a red moon in the news the last couple of days.

If you can supply 13.8v to the Air then you should be fine. People get issues when using those 12v brick PSU’s as you will loose voltage via the smaller cables running to each device.

30 minutes ago, PeterStudz said:

Out of interest… If the iPhone is really steady, basically on a tripod, you can get up to 30s exposures. 

Only 10s on this one. It’s the standard iPhone 15

Back in Ireland for a couple of weeks with the family at my home place in Roscommon. Was out last night enjoying the Persieds and a glorious Milky Way at my mother’s house. Decided to point my iPhone 15 at the sky and try a few snaps. I set the exposure to the maximum 10s the phone will allow, exposure value to 2 and set a timer before leaving the phone on top of the car and letting it snap. This is a single 10s shot of the Milky Way with an iPhone. Really impressed!

If you use APT to capture you can dither without guiding.

Been a long time since I took and processed a picture. First finished image taken with the Celestron Edge 8”. Took a bit of effort to gather all the data between May and July, about a dozen sessions with around 2/3 hours worth between 11pm and 2am. I imaged at native 1x1 so image scale is around 0.52”. I had intended to software bin 2x2 but Pixinsights WBPP didn’t like this so I left things as they are. Still happy with how it’s came out. Nice to be back.

https://astrob.in/jk7ua4/0/

Great capture Emil! This is on my wishlist! I have a 2/3 hour window on this between mid July and mid August. You would think it would be ideal weather this time of year for this but Gulf Stream says otherwise. 

What issues are you having? The settings look ok but you have to remember that PHD is trying to compensate for everything else, flexure, mirror movement, mount inaccuracies etc 

14 minutes ago, TiffsAndAstro said:

That's really nice. Can clearly see the teeth and jaw of the alien queens skull:)

Is your 6d stock? 6d is full frame?

 

Thanks! The 6D is full frame yes and it has been modified.

Great result! I would keep at it and add more, maybe 5/6 hours worth. I took this on a single session with a redcat and my 6D a few days before or after the summer solstice so don’t listen to any naysayers that say you can’t image in summer time.

Baader solar film is shiny, like tin foil but thinner.

Why the 18mm spacer? Can you not change it to a 10mm or 7.5mm?

Edit: Sorry, I read that again and realised you need to push focus out for the guide cam. Is it a nosepiece type guide camera? You got a picture of how everything sits together?

The Celestron OAG is a great unit but the stalk is a bit short. See below pic of mine when used with the correct 0.7 Edge reducer for my C8 Edge HD. The prism looks like it would barely pick up any light through the reducer. That said, I have no problem getting guide stars across the chip of my ASI174 mini. The sensor is massive compared to other guide cameras. How does it look if you look at it like below with your reducer?

I have found the answer to this. It is to sell your Samsung device and buy an iPhone lol

1 hour ago, Elp said:

I've just looked at my SS7 Plus and there doesn't seem to be an option to custom load one, only the dozen or so default presets to choose from.

There never was an option to load from the app. You needed to put the png file into the Horizons folder through the file manager on the phone/tablet. The custom horizon could then be selected from the list in the app. The same method doesn't appear to work now though unless somebody has figured it out.

Has anybody ever figured out how to get SS to display a custom horizon ie my back garden, on either SS6 or SS7? It used to work great on my Samsung S20 but since changing to an S23 it doesn't work? I have put the landscape picture into the correct folder via accessing the phone through a PC but it doesn't appear in the app? I wouldn't have bought SS7 Pro if I knew it wouldn't work!

The Noctua fan and silicone 'screws' have done the trick.

For a few pound cheaper, I have ordered a Noctua fan off Amazon that comes with the rubber thingies. I was going to get the Sunon one but then others have reported issues with those as well. For the record, I had never noticed any issues with the Sunon fan in my camera until it packed up. I'm sure the issue is the cheap one I have put in but I have also never imaged at near 1.5m focal length either. Hopefully I can get the new fan installed in time for yet more testing of my latest setup. I thought after a successful Saturday night I was there!

There have been a number of threads on this subject and I think I may be another victim of this affliction! After the unexpected clear sky on Saturday night, I noticed when doing flats early Sunday morning that the cooler was on 100% but only at -9°C. Turns out the fan had packed in. I have some spare cheap fans the same size so I changed it yesterday, ready for a second clear night. I left the scope to its own devices last night and ran everything through Blink today. Saturday nights subs with no fan running all are nice and consistantly round. Sunday nights subs however all have a slight elongation from left to right. The only thing that changed between both nights was a non working fan to a new working one. Scope is a C8 Edge and focal length is 1480mm. Guiding was pretty good for both nights. I've seen on the other threads that some people have used some sort of rubber type screws to isolate the fan a bit better. Is that the only fix or is there a better quality fan to use?

Interestingly the Saturday subs were all around -2°C and the fixed pattern noise looks more evident than Sundays -10°C subs with working fan so I would say yes, cooling is better.