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Everything posted by teh_orph

  1. You got an out-loud 'wow' from me as the page loaded. Good work!
  2. Nice framing. Any chance of sharing what the individual Ha and OIII channels look like?
  3. This is an excellent image Can you remember any of the capture details for the original image? (eg is it a mosaic?)
  4. Nice. I've been considering using my 55-250 to see what I can get in particular at the long end. What focal ratio was your 200mm shot using, and what kind of exposure lengths? Also what does an individual image look like with light pollution?
  5. Thanks all My camera is unmodified, apart from removing that IR filter directly in front of the sensor. I'm imaging in colour, and then dropping the other three pixels' worth of data. Tbh I'm not happy with the way I do this, what system do you use? Really I want to just take my RAW files and drop the GG and B leaving R, but there's no software which I can find does this nicely. I can't do it reliably in dcraw: it works ok on the light frames but it ruins the flats and darks. The best I have found so far is to use DeepSkyStacker and *disable the black point=zero* check box, set red=1, blue=1
  6. Nice nice. Good stars and the nebula itself looks ace.
  7. Hello guys I can see why people get addicted to imaging... I replaced my EQ2 scope with a EQ5 + 200p in January and have been making progress with guiding. However as I live in London I can never really use an exposure longer than about five minutes due to the light pollution...or at worst just 30 seconds! I recently sourced a second 1000D, removed the IR filter and DIYed in a filter holder into my optic train and added a 1.25" Baader 6nm Ha filter. For the last few weeks I've been experimenting with imaging like that and finally have an image when using the equipment in anger. Five hours of H
  8. Cheers guys. I would recommend having a go if you have the kit, mag ~14.5. Tick it off the list! In my case it did require preparation though. I went out during the day time to figure out when it would be in a place where not blocked by other houses. Eris looks a bit too dim for me
  9. Hi guys, long time no post... I moved house last year to a much better place - astronomically - to where I used to live, but still not great considering it's in London and got myself a new scope. I've been very keen to get a snap of Pluto before New Horizons reaches it and have been waiting for May to roll round when it's a doable place from my house. Unfortunately I have no view of the south, and Pluto rises quite low in the south so I have to suck it up and go stand on the South Circular and risk getting mugged to get a picture! Unfortunately every weekend for me has been cloudy so I risked
  10. I've reverted to 3.35...and now returning from parking works! I've emailed Skywatcher via their web page detailing the bug. Let's see if there's a reply. Now that I know what to search for it does appear this is a common bug in 3.36.
  11. Woah, this sounds like what I've got! Where can I get 3.35 from? On the web site I only see 3.27, which I cannot flash and 3.36. I bought the goto to save myself time, as using my EQ2 in light polluted London I would spend serious time navigating to an object. Now I spent my time calibrating!
  12. Yes that's a good idea - maybe I'll try some completely different co-ordinates. It's unfortunate that I live ~100m from the meridian All the repeated 7s to me look like a NaN in the data somewhere...
  13. Hi guys, I just bought an EQ5 GOTO mount from FLO...but I think there's a bug in the software. It's pretty obvious yet I can't find anything online so perhaps it's a handset fault. Can anyone try and reproduce it with theirs? (you don't need to see stars to do this ) After calibration and parking the mount, it requires me to calibrate every time after powering off the mount. Here is how to reproduce it. Hardware 3.06 firmware 3.36 database 3.28. To reproduce, - factory reset handset via menu - turn off handset - turn on handset - set location 000"00'W 51 deg 27' N - set time zone +00:00 -
  14. Photoshop CS5. I has to hand align them too! Ah it's all too easy these days :-)
  15. Hello guys, it's been a while since I've posted a pic here! Here's my latest composition - a nine-pic HDR compo, with exposures ranging from two seconds to 1/500. Canon 1000D, SW 130P, RA drive. Thanks for looking, Simon
  16. Ah I've got one of those too! I much prefer the PSEye to be honest. The compression artefacts are annoying (PSEye is uncompressed) and there's a much higher green noise level IMO. I find I get much cleaner looking pictures with this camera. The infrared response seems much better with the Philips though. Finally when using the Philips beyond a certain capture frequency the spatial resolution is actually halved (but it doesn't tell you) in order to still be able to fit the data down USB 1.
  17. Yes Nathan, I use the software to do fine focussing. I have a home-made Bahtinov mask too but this often dims the image too much for stars and doesn't work too well on something so large as a planet! I'd definitely recommend using the camera but I see that you have a QHY5 so I'd imagine aren't after a webcam
  18. Cheers guys. I have a Mars as well but after seeing one on here perhaps I won't post it Time for a scope upgrade I think!
  19. Hello guys sorry about another Jupiter, but I figured I'd only add it to the list as I'm so pleased to finally see the great red spot! I think I've come a long way...with the same kit! SW 130P, double-stacked barlows (SW + Celestron Ultima), PS3 PSEye camera. Here's my take from last year: http://stargazerslounge.com/imaging-planetary/111388-jupiter-through-pseye-ps3-camera.html ...and here's from midnight Friday night/Sat morning. I clocked a dark mark on the surface which I took to be the GRS. After stacking it I completely missed seeing the GRS (which came out a lot lighter than I expected)
  20. That is excellent...and it also shows what great things you can do with camera phones.
  21. Tbh they don't, so I use a barlow with the glass elements removed as an extension tube. Since the camera's sensor is so far recessed into the housing it's hard to get both EPs and camera to focus without modifying the focuser. I have the springs and grubs screws set so there's about 0.5 mm spare back focus for the camera and the EPs are at the complete other end of the rack and pinion focuser! I'm so pleased with the result though. The FOV is much better without the barlow and I get the same problems other people get now. I get coma in my images! I can also locate things in a flash! No more "w
  22. Holy thread bump batman! I just performed this mod on my telescope...and it works! I have a 130P and a Canon 1000D but could only get focus before with a Barlow. With an EQ2 mount the tracking isn't the best so the Barlow made it worse! I've got 5mm threaded grub screws in the place of the original screws, roughly two inches long, with wing nuts on the end. The mirror is held in place with some strong springs. Collimation is now unbelievably easier, and the camera comes to focus too! I do need extension tubes for eyepieces though. I had to make no permanent modification to the OTA - everything
  23. Very cool. Are you going to keep it in your finished image or PS it out?
  24. Cool! How long is the exposure for the light show? Does it move really fast, so a long exposure gives a silky smooth look but a short exposure makes it looks turbulent? (like water)
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