Joeistotalycool

I was looking at getting an esprit 120. It's a shame the price has gone up

On the bright side I think a reducer will be released for them soon ish. It looks to be a .65 reducer so a much wider field of view.

Hello all,

I have just received my new ZWO ASI1600MM Pro camera and it works very well

However, I was wondering about the ascom driver. I have seen many people set their settings as gain 139 and offset 21, but with the newer drivers, the offset is in the 'advanced' tab. Should I just click Unity Gain and leave it at that, or should I go into the advanced tab and manually select Offset 21? From what I can tell, it does make a slight difference (files attached).

2019-04-07_10-32-21 = Offset not manually selected

2010-04007_12-01-48 = offset manually selected

I do apologise if I am misunderstanding this, as this is my first time working with a dedicated astro camera  

D_2019-04-07_10-32-21_180s__-20C_Bin1x1_D 1x1 180s -20 139 _5h__G139.fit D_2019-04-07_12-01-48_180s__-20C_Bin1x1_D 1x1 180s -20 139 21_G139.fit

The Needle galaxy - 57 minutes exposure time, 3 min exposures @ ISO 800

Canon EOS 1200Da, Skywatcher 200PDS with cooling fan, Astronomik CLS clip in filter, NEQ6, No Coma Corrector.

Bortle 6/7

I plan to do a full project on this one soon, but i'm happy with this one for now  

I decided to photograph the horsehead nebula because everyone seems to have imaged it except for me!

4 hours 55 minutes , 5 min exposures @ ISO800

Skywatcher 200PDS with cooling fan, NEQ6, Canon EOS 1200Da, Astronomik CLS clip in filter

Bortle 6/7

This is my first go photographing a nebula with my newtonian  

Not sure if this is what you are after, but it may be worth stacking them separately and creating a mosaic. Microsoft Image composite editor is pretty good

I can just about make out 6 stars  

sorry, I don't think it was the main board. I had the power board (is that what its called?) swapped.

On 30/01/2019 at 18:00, Astro-Geek said:

Did they supply the CG5 to you in the first place ?

I'll give them another enquiry, hopefully they may supply parts on their own as well as carrying out repairs.

The 64 thousand dollar question - How much did the charge, if I may be so bold ? 

I bought the cg5 on ebay about a year prior to the repair. they fixed it for a nice 40 quid I believe. 

I had to replace one of the boards in my cg5 back in april. I got Rother valley optics to do it   

I use APT, and it is a outstanding program. I have a 1200D too, and it allows me to take amazing images. Plate solving is an absolute blessing! 

11 minutes ago, Mark at Beaufort said:

The easy way to check if your refracting needs collimating is to use a cheshire eyepiece. Here is a link to the procedure produced by Phil - http://philjay2000.tripod.com/usefulstuff/adventures.pdf

Thanks, I was going to get one eventually, as I was planning on getting a newtonian. They are a lot more versatile than I thought!

6 minutes ago, Anton Astro said:

That’s probably just chromatic aberration, the ED80 has a relatively short focal length. Is it on brighter stars or everything? I guess collimation would more likely manifest itself as coma or poor focus. I should your focus still ok? Is it across the whole FOV or just the edges or one side?

It appears on almost all stars, bright or dim, across the whole fov

Hello, I was recently capturing images through my Skywatcher ED 80 and I realised I had purple and green fringing around the stars. I looked at previous images and it turns out I've had the problem for a few months. I'm not quite sure if the problem is the focuser or the glass. Im using a canon 1200D with a astronomik CLS clip in filter and a 1.25 Baader UV IR cut

I supplied the stacked raw Tiff.

Any suggestions would be nice

Autosave.tif

Are all the images in the type (tiff, monochrome, etc

nice one. Great job!

1 minute ago, GavStar said:

Unfortunately I’m not good at sketching but my phone photos give a good impression of the view through the night vision monoculars. 

Here are two taken at the sqm 21 garden earlier this month..

 

Whoa, That's insane! Im almost lost for words... 

Sorry im a bit late to the party, but I was wondering how you avoid vignetting with the 1.25 filters?

Thank you!   

I've only ever thought of the loop as a photographic object. I would love to see a sketch of what you can see!

Please be aware that the file is not properly accessible, please can you repost the file again? Thanks!

what equipment was used?

2 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

I've had this issue and never understood where it came from. However, things to check:

- Are you using exactly the same capture mode (nothing to do with camera settings like exposure or ISO) in whatever capture programme you are using? Some have a fast download option, for instance. You need to use the same mode for flats as lights.

- Have you taken darks for flats (sometimes known as dark flats?) These would be darks taken at exactly the same exposure and ISO as your flats. Over correction often arises from a failure to do so. (In my case, though, they made no difference, I have to say. My own problem lay elsewhere but yours might not.)

- Inadequate flushing between flats exposures can cause this. It might be worth building in something like a 30 second delay between flats at least to see if this helps.

In one setup I used this was an infernal and intractable problem which I cured once and thought I'd solved. Then it came back and the same cure no longer worked. Very odd....

Olly

Thanks for the tips, I will test them some other time (When its clear out  )

Not being able to diagnose a problem is about one of the most frustrating things you can have in the hobby lol  (Well, apart from equipment straight up breaking of course )

Amazing image! I would love to capture something like that. How dark were your skies?

Looking pretty good!

Amazing image! The data looks awesome on PS. I made a few adjustments to the image to better suit my tastes:

I decreased the Greens in the image and increased the golds. I reduced the purple stars (a bit, I think they give the image more character  ) and decreased the size of the stars surrounding the nebula, making it pop out more. I would love to move onto a cooled, mono camera!

SHO_Hubble_palette_PACMANworkingcopy2 from Joe^^.tif