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cnmcferren

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About cnmcferren

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    Vacuum
  1. A few weeks ago I took pictures of the Horsehead Nebula using the following setup and settings: Canon 550D (Rebel T2i) Canon 75-300mm f4.0-5.6 at f8.0 50x2min exposures 10 dark frames 20 flat frames Stacked in DSS using median stack This is the .fits file straight out of DSS: It has some pretty bad coma and halos (especially toward the edges) but there is certainly data there. I perform AutoDev on this image to reveal errors and then start the Wipe Module on it. This, however, is where the problem starts. When the Wipe is performed, I get this nasty green glow (and no, it's not a Mask). I cannot seem to get rid of it at all. Some setting can change its size and shape, but it still remains. I can see the nebulosity underneath, but I cannot get to it because the glow. Does anybody have any idea what causes this and how to get rid of it? Thanks for any help you can give, Conor.
  2. @Alpollo thats great! I very much appreciate that. I'm definitely going to take your advice on the free trial (which I didn't even know they had). So I'll learn how to use it and then try the free trial and see how I like it! Thanks!
  3. The t-ring is what you put into the camera body. It's a small ring that has threading on the inside of it and is placed in the camera as if it were a lens. The t-adapter screws into the t-ring and is then inserted into the telescope. Generally speaking, if you are attaching a DSLR to a telescope, you will need a t-ring. But you will not always need a t-adapter. Some telescopes have threading directly on the focused so that t-ring is place on the telescope without the use of the t-adapter
  4. @ollypenrice so what exactly does Pixinsight give me? I've certainly looked into it but I hear so many mixed reviews on it; some people love it and some people hate it. Why do you personally like it? And what can it provide that, say, Adobe Photoshop cannot (just as a comparison)?
  5. I currently have a Skywatcher Star Adventurer Tracking mount. I am looking at options to improve my accurate exposure time. My first option is autoguiding. What is an effective autoguiding solution for the Star Adventurer? Or am I better off completely upgrading to a Celestron Advanced VX without an autoguiding solution?
  6. I am new to this forum so I apologize if I am doing this wrong. I'm still trying to learn! I have mostly done widefield astrophotography, but I have recently obtained a Skywatcher Star Adventurer Tracking mount. So now I am beginning some more deep sky astrophotography, but I'm wondering if there is any advice I could get to help improve my pictures. My equipment list is as follows: * Skywatcher Star Adventurer mount (that allows for 2 minutes at maximum focal length) * Canon 550D (Rebel T2i) * Canon 75-300mm f4.0-5.6 The night sky ranks at about a 7 on the Bortle Scale. The Milky Way hardly visible when it is out Below is an example of a photo that I recently obtained from my backyard to give an example of what I have done so far. Any help would be much appreciate to improve my photos. Once again, sorry if I am not using this forum correctly. Conor.
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