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JP50515

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About JP50515

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    Nebula

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    USA
  1. Uranium it's good to so you're still here in this thread after all these years. Honestly mate I chuckle at one of your earliest comments regarding Skywatcher paying this thread commission for uptick in 130PDS sales...more like paying you commission! I think your images are the reason that a large number of us landed on this scope, and to this day I am beside myself to understand how you pull such amazing data off a cheap imaging newt mounted to an EQ6.
  2. EDIT: Nvm...figured it out dude thanks for that. Had no idea that script was hiding in there! Double EDIT: nope...after a stretch it's still there. Any suggestions on settings for that script?
  3. Unfortunately... it creates it's own set of issues when I run it under default settings.
  4. Hey guys, I have some imaging woes going on. This is about 4 hours on the whale. Was hoping to go after it again tonight, but these issues have me questioning things. https://www.dropbox....TsS8ZGSO3a?dl=0 Canon450D Iso800 Subs - 240s exposure time (shooting for 1/3 Histo) Darks - 240s Flats - 1s (shooting for middle of histo) using tshirt+torch method Bias - .0025s I am using FastStone Image Viewer to check the Histogram on each picture. There are a number of different issues going on here. I see: really bad horizontal banding going on if I do a quick ABE and autostretch in PI using the default settings. (see screen capture below) Fixed Noise Pattern Artifacts that will not go away...have been there for months now and I've literally cleaned everything numerous times. It is not dust...beginning to think it may be sensor damage of some type. Oblong Stars I know the canons sometimes have banding, but I've never run into it like this before..and suddenly it's a common occurance. I'm inclined to assume that this has to do with the dark and bias frames. Which when viewing individually seem bad to me. I take them with the scope cap on, and a black garbage bag over the entire rig...in the dark. I'm not quite sure if they're bad or not, but if so maybe someone can suggest an alternate technique? Can I pull the camera and throw the sensor cap on and try that, or does it need to remain on the imaging train like a flat would? I believe the solution to FNP on a DSLR is to dither more aggressively...I already have my dither set to high..perhaps I just try maxing out the aggressiveness in SGP and see what happens here? These artifacts are the bane of my imaging rig right now. I can't figure out where they are coming from at this point (I've cleaned everything many times) but you can see them in the flats clearly, and the final stacked image. This is possibly a collimation issue. I moved the scope cross country and have yet to re-collimate. The stars seem to be moving in the same direction in each sub. (perhaps this indicates something else?) I used sharpcap's PA process and had that sucker right on top of the target so I'm inclined to rule out a bad Polar Alignment. I'll be re-collimating today, and star testing it tonight to see if that helps at all. The mount will not be moving between last night's imaging and any imaging/diagnostics I do tonight. Anyway, I included the Masters, and individual images for the stack in the link above if anyone wants to try and help me figure out what's going on. Thanks!
  5. Not an expert, not by a long shot, but think of the universe like a glass of water, a big giant glass of nothing-water. In order for the universe to create mass and expand, it must occupy the nothing, similar to how a pebble enters water in a glass. It displaces the water, pushing its way through just as the universe displaces the "nothing" as it expands...so in theory...somewhere out there, there's a whole lot of nothing that's moving faster than the speed of light to make way for the universe as it expands. Doesn't answer your question...but still interesting. FYI this came from "how the universe works"....not my own brain lol
  6. Poor polar alignment is my guess. No view of polaris so I had to drift...first time doing that.
  7. Hey Beka, Yeah I see what you're talking about. I was definitely in RAW so that's probably not what's causing it. I would like to get to the bottom of whatever it is that's doing it though. Thanks!
  8. Hey guys, New here, and to AP, but not astronomy. Been doing visual for a few years now. Got out for the first time last night with my new SW 130PDS, and Sirius mount. Camera is a Canon 450D - no CC or filters. Both of these pics are single exposures. M42 I honestly can't remember what it was set to...ISO800 for 60s maybe? The Betelgeuse pic was a test frame that I looked at after the session and was like...oh dayum that's kind cool. Anyway, I'm super stoked by how well these turned out for being a super noob in AP, and looking for advice on how to make them better. (obviously stacked subs would have been the obvious answer) Is it Coma in the M42 pic that's making the stars eggy? Thanks!
  9. That's pretty much exactly what I'm trying to do...alright then, nice share! Thanks
  10. Hey guys, Looking to make a custom adapter so I can thread my DSLR into the primary of my SW 130PDS, but I need to know what the dimensions of the Baader MPCC are to calculate the correct spacer dimensions for proper back focus. I do not have the baader eyepiece yet, but am hoping someone may be able to measure theirs with a mic, or calipers for me. There's a few different dimensions I will need if anyone can help. Thanks!
  11. This might be blasphemy to link to this place, but I'll just leave this here. http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/551998-iastrohub-30-iot-for-astrophotography/ $75 for a Raspberry Pi kit with everything. https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1489083832&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Raspberry+Pi+3&psc=1 $37 for just the pi itself. https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1489083832&sr=1-3&keywords=Raspberry+Pi+3
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