HyperCams

So my first message here to the group was apparently deleted or lost in translation as it is no longer here....my first post that I can see now, the one right above GTom'so post was a followup to my original post (now nowhere to be seen lol) where I introduced myself and gave a bit of history on me and the cameras I have done and all of that jazz... Anyways...Sorry but I'm not gonna retype allllllll of that again with my 3year old son climbing all over me lol So....Hi everyone! I'm Brent and I'm an addict.......I mean I modify cameras and love doing it! Or maybe I am an addict and am addicted to performing open heart surgery on cameras Clear skies! Brent

I can add that for anyone trying the polishing method, I was told by an engineer from CDS that polishing removes a layer that he called the "optical pad" between the bayer and the sensor and that would lose some sensitivity... I have no data to back this up other than my personal observations of comparing the polished sensors vs the scraped sensors and I could easily see a difference. I split a sensor once, half polished and half scraped, and could easily see the difference and the scraped was "brighter". By brighter I mean the actual images from the sensor... I have to look to see if I kept the images or the sensor (probably not as I have used all of the dead ones as testing beds for technique over the years)... someone may have already covered this here, if I missed it I apologize. And now, a word on scraping. LOL Oak. Oak is your friend. I tried a bunch of different materials when developing the scraping method. I went to the local hardware store and bought a bunch of 1/4" wood dowels of different wood types. Everything they had. Also some plastic/composite and metal ones but those either did not work at all or went straight through to the silicon sensor and were useless *for me*. If you take an oak dowel and sharpen one end to a chisel point/end (it needs an angle, not a curved edge) it should work for you. getting a good edge on it is not easy but doable with some practice, luckily you can get it cheap...I bought a 1/4"x24" dowel over two years ago and am still using the original piece I cut off of it at ~6" (same length as a pencil/pen, also used a foam pad for ergonomics or a bunch of rubber bands wrapped around it to make a comfortable handle).. But a key note, I do not push the material off in a back to front or away from me motion. I move side to side like you are coloring in a picture with a crayon. It is a more natural movement for me and worked best for my efforts. The tool will actually work best with the bayer material stuck to it. You may have to move the tool around a while on the Bayer to build up a small layer..it gunks up pretty quick though. Do NOT press "hard". Move the tool very lightly from side to side and slowly add more pressure until you see gold. Then keep doing the same thing a million times over and over and over LOL Always start in a corner so if you do scratch it you will not damage the whole sensor by having a "bad" area right in the center of the frame... Oh....and NEVER CLEAN YOUR SENSOR *with chemicals* BEFORE YOU START!!!!!! Never put ANY chemicals, even rubbing alcohol on it. I only ever use a bulb blower or a dry swab to remove particles before beginning work...which is needed as they will scratch your sensor. Never leave the sensor to sit for a long period of time after removing the cover glass. Never partially remove the bayer and leave it for even a day.... Finish once you start and never use chemicals to clean while you are working. Blow whatever you can off as you go and also you can go over the same area multiple times with the dowel to make sure you got everything. WHY? I swear it seems like Canon's bayer actually hardens after being open to air for extended times, or (especially) when soaked with a chemical like alcohol...Maybe it is just me though..I have damaged quite a few sensors this way because the amount of force to remove the bayer after exposure was too much and would damage the sensor... Also, use a microscope to do this kind of work. It is hands down the best investment I have ever made for this work. I own this one here: LINK to Amazon This is all just "what has worked for *ME*" and YMMV. Anyways, just some (hopefully useful) info off the top of my head while I had it. I really need to finish some tutorial videos etc as I have most of them already and have the ability to record through my microscope as well. It might help some understand what I am saying and newcomers who may not know much about the processes etc...and really the techniques needed to do this well and have a very clean result. Clear skies! Brent