barrie greenwood

Hi Paul

Sorry yeah I did check the wait for script to end but same as .

I've downloaded an earlier version and as soon as I get a clear window I'll try that and see what happens 

I will keep you all updated 

Regards baz

Nothing stands out in the log .

It's not a single error like yours it's every time it gets to the second exposure. 

I've changed every single setting I can think of but the same as .

27 minutes ago, bottletopburly said:

Try waiting 7 mins after meridian ,ivo and jim told me this at PAS in kettering 

It's not having the issue  with solving or after the flip it just fails to trigger the camera on the second image in the goto++ sequence which is set to 5 

That won't work as it fails on the second attempt to fire the camera .

It solves after the first photo is taken then moves closer to the abject as it should but then fails to trigger the camera for the second exposure 

Regards

Baz

I found an old demo version 3.90 so I've overwritten the newer version and will give it a go once the rain stops ....which looks like never 

21 hours ago, Paul M said:

I've used GOTO++ in Session Craft a few times and had no problems, indeed I've been delighted with the perforamnce.

Here is my plan for an automated mosaic of M45, it worked flawlessly.

A while ago I used Session Craft and Imaging Plans to capture an early morning comet. I'd gone to bed leaving APT doing some image run which ended some time prior to the comet rising. So Session craft parked the scope then at the appropriate time found the comet's RA/DEC and ran off an image plan. All while I got my beauty sleep.

I can't think why APT isn't working for you. Here is my M45 mosaic plan. for reference. The first item is selected and you can see that at the lower right I have "Wait for script to end" selected.

I found that to be important, weird stuff happens otherwise!.  Perhaps significant for your problem?

Hi why the offset in your plan 

Regards baz 

21 hours ago, newbie alert said:

What version are you using, and what's your platesolver?

I had a issue with the beta versions not solving after the flip and not parking after the it's finished it's run, although it was in the script

Going back a few stable versions solved that.. I'm not interested in the latest versions if they don't work

Hi I'm using platesolve 2 and astap and using thr latest version of app I updated to the beta version yesterday but the rain stopped play .

It's driving me mad I find atp absolutely brilliant and highly rate it butvthis us driving me crazy

Regards baz 

Hi guys 

No I'm trying to automate a session so I can use session craft to trigger a time to start a plan .

The issue I have is if i use goto++ in pointcraft it works flawlessly 

However using it as a command script it is set to try 3 times to move and solve the image .

So what happens is the first goto ++ it triggers the dslr and solves it moves closer to to the object and triggers the camera for a second time but although it triggers it it does not fire it so then the script hangs until I stop it .I have sent the log file to ivo but I don't like to keep pestering the guy 😕 

Regards baz 

Hi guys I'm trying to use apt goto++ to solve in an automated script .

It actually works upto the goto++ takes an image then solves moves closer to the target then takes anothet shot only on the second exposure it does not activate the camera .

However if I use goto++ manually it's works flawlessly. 

Does anyone have any ideas of what I need to look at to sort out this problem 

Regards baz

I got up early today and managed to integrate starnet into pixinsight and it does work however the second formula gave me a weird result that was white like a starmask

Regards 

Thanks guys I'll give it a go in the morning I've had a play about with it and ended up with this 

Its a long way from great but my flow isn't great either .

So I did the bg removal then background neutralise then photometric colour calibration then stretched it .

Took the results into starnet and split the stars then into photoshop cs6 and combined the two in layers and allowed the star version to come through by adjusting the opacity of the starless version .

Am I on rhe right track or wayyyy off 🤔 

Again thanks for the time taken to reply gys 

Ok slowly getting it but I use a dslr so it's a one shot colour affair .

Or is my workglow wrong as  I don't split the channels I've looked online but there is so much I don't really understand 

So after I stretch it I split the photo into two one with stars and one with out then work on the starless one and recombine them both is that the idea ?

Hi guys 

So when using starnet to reduce stars do I process the image to finished state before using starnet or at some point along the way

At What point do i remove the stars in the process .

Im using starnet as a Windows stand alone as I am unable to get it running in pixinsight

Regards Barrie 

1 hour ago, alacant said:

I thought it was international. Entirely my fault. Please accept my apologies. 

No apologies needed all the info is good  

Thanks guys 

1 hour ago, alacant said:

That will cut the vast majority of visible light; for dsos probably not what you want.

The easiest and cheapest way to approximate the blue/yellow false colour stuff on an osc is to split and recombine the channels from a UHC filtered image. But if this is your first attempt at deep sky, perhaps better to go with a longer wavelength ir cut filter (links above) and treat the camera as a standard astronomically modified version. In so doing record all the visible wavelengths whilst eliminating the fuzz from the out of focus ir. Even then, as you can see from your image, stars are well focused and without blur so unless you're planning to use a refractor, to begin with you probably don't need one as colour is easily corrected in processing.

HTH

Yeah the links above won't ship to the UK. 

What about this one

https://amzn.eu/d/9QuODDJ

Hi mate ok just been looking at a 685 nm 2 inch ir pass filter on amazon it does however say its for planetary photos moon etc .

Will this do for dso as well and also will it help with moon glare when it's up when i image dso or do I need a different wavelength I already have some ir filters for landscapes etc but they are at the 720 850 and 900 nm and I think this would only get bw at this higher end 

This is the link to the one I'm looking at 

Svbony SV183 IR Pass Filter 2in, 685nm Astrophotography Filter, Infrared Telescope Filter for Photographing Moon Planetary Nature Scenery https://amzn.eu/d/40cJ5k7

Regards Baz 

Okso the oiii filters what do they produce.

Just want to get a feel of which I'd the best one to purchase  

How do I get it to be in this colour range is this a combination of different filters etc

43 minutes ago, alacant said:

Either a clip in filter for your camera or 2" filter, double sided tape:

   

Brilliant so I want to be getting the heart nebula in the browns etc instead of the reds so what filter would I need is it just a uv cut or a ha filter etc I'm new to the filter thing so know nothing about it at all 

This is what I'm using the inner thread is bigger than 1.25 but not 2inch 

On 02/10/2022 at 16:41, sharkmelley said:

You won't go far wrong with the Astronomik L-2 filter - it's the one I use.  But there are many other alternatives.

Ok so I'm using a nikon d0 cropped sensor and can't find a filter that clips in .

Can I mount the filter into the adaptor that fixes the camera body to the scope 

5 minutes ago, sharkmelley said:

Baader, Astronomik and many other manufacturers of astro-accessories produce a range of IR/UV blocking filters in different sizes, including clip-in filters.

Ok so what would be the best filter to look out for please forgive the noobness

I'm using a nikon d90 and a skywatcher 200p no Focal reducer or anything else at the min 

Ok could you suggest any for me im pretty well out my depth on this one 

Regards Baz