Craig123

A manual wheel but no OAG Dave. The panel is not good but adu is around 25000 with 5 secs exp , gain 200 and offset 64 using Ha filter

Yes the wheel is open where you turn it. Maybe that's it. I thought light was coming off my laptop so I reset screen to red night vision but its still there.... Could it be hand control for Heq5 glowing red. That's the only thing near the sensor I can think of. It looked dark all round my set up this time.. 🤔🤔🤔 Will pst a set up pic. Thanks

Thanks that is mega helpful 👍 will keep looking. I will post picture of my set up see if anyone can spot a flaw.

Hi Dave Thanks. It's 16 bit I think. Was just setting the readout options in PI yesterday. Maybe I need a better light panel to get it up to the right levels. Got a s/h gerd Nueman but they get less than glowing reviews on here. Craig

The camera off the scope with some foil on the cap worked Dave. Thanks for the tip. 👍👍 I've done the darks.. Now need flat darks the same way. The flats I've just done are 5 seconds . Does it matter if they are that long if the adu is in the right ballpark.. Adu 2590 on my last try but the light panel is not adjustable. Many thanks Craig

Well thanks for checking them over. I know what I need to do with the darks. One problem down. Would you say that sub I uploaded of flaming star looked to be suffering from light leak. To me the gradient on the left seems far less on this last try than was evident on the original jellyfish sub. If its still there I'm stumped as to why.. Many thanks

Thanks for the info on this. Here is a 5 minute dark i've just done with camera off the scope and wrapped in foil aswell ... first time i have tried this and it seems better. darkoffscope_00002.fits darkoffscope_00005.fits

Mmmm.. Need to check dark subs as maybe light got switched on next door. That's all I can think. I need to remove camera for that but looks like flats worked so might be OK. The settings were all the same at minus 20.

Hi Vlad, Hi all.. I had a go at IC405 the other night and tried to eliminate the light leak you have highlighted above. I think it was the laptop near the manual filter wheel. Anyway I tried a few calibration frames which I have added here if you have a moment to have a look and see if they are closer to what is required. They are single frames dark, flat dark, flat and light frames before I try and stack them. Also is an automatic averaged stack of 50 darks using Sharpcap capture dark which I tried for comparison. Seems like I'm getting closer but I didn't remove the camera from the scope yet incase I need to re do anything. The light panel I'm using isn't too bright (Gerd Nuemann which got slated on SGL the other day ) so the flats are all the way up to 5 seconds which seems very long but the Histogram analysis for flats in sharp cap says its acceptable and ADU is around 25000. Many thanks Craig ic405ha.fit IC405darkframesingle.fit ic405flatsdarks5secsingle.fit ic405flats5sec_00006.fit autostackdark_50_frames_-20.0C_2019-12-19T21_53_38.fit

Thanks. That helps, alot. The light in the top left is worse in earlier subs than in the later ones from that night. I wondered if it was the laptop screen as i dimmed it right down later on but then moved my scope inside for darks..so then it was in a different position to the camera.

Thanks. I don't remember seeing the scaling option but I will look out for it nxt time I load image calibration.

BTW Vlad. I thought the light in the top left corner was the Ampglow ? It's on the lights. There is no sign (yet) of the star burst ampglow that I've seen in some posts. Craig

Thanks for looking at these Vlad. Much appreciated. When i get back I will have a look at the subs again. It makes sense what you are pointing out but I don't know anything about scaling.. I tried to come up with a workflow for flat darks while following the light vortex tutorials on Calibration and its obviously gone pear shaped. I will post up what I come up with. I believe some light will be getting in at least via the manual filter wheel. Cheers 👍👍

I will do that thanks. A handy tip. I have a feeling alot of it could be the manual filter wheel but I need to be more carefully all round about taking these frames 👍

Yes thanks Dave. I did do them with the camera attached to the scope. I did 50 frames with the cap on the scope using sharpcap capture darks which automatically stacked them. Just as a precaution I re-did them next day as individual frames and that's what I've just run through pixinsight and uploaded with similar results. I guess I can still do the dark flats again as the orientation of camera and focus is only relevant to the flat frames and not the dark flats. Does that sound right? Many thanks Craig

Hi all I have been trying to use calibration frames on a few hours of lights I obtained of IC443 recently. It's the first time I've tried to use calibration frames and also I'm using a new cmos camera and fairly new to PI. After a couple of sessions trying in PI I'm getting a little wobbly and can't work out what is happening in the final result. Each time the finished calibrated lights come out looking darker and a STF shows no sign of the nebula that is evident in a single uncalibrated sub with stf. I've followed Light vortex tutorials and some cloudy nights forums on calibration frames with the camera ..ASi1600 mono cooled using master dark and Flats calibrated with dark flats. Please would anyone be so good as to have a look at my fits files and advise if they look ok before it all slides right off my dessert plate on to the floor in a big mess. 🤑 Many thanks integrationcalibratedmasterflat.fit integrationmasterdarkic443.fit jellyfishhalights2_00019.fits

Hi Adam. I appreciate your comment here and have been looking at options to move forward with imaging. I think it would have been a mistake to go for the Esprit having found the astronomy tools calculator for optimum resolution so ended up back thinking on the zwo 1600 mono Pro. With Ed80 for now. (I nearly got one instead of the 314 a couple years ago ) I've seen a few comments on cloudy nights about reflections but it seems to be just aimed at one particular target. There's isn't a newer model with AR coating? Also I have a 22mm Filter wheel with Baader 1. 25..any idea if this will work OK for 1600 or will the vignetting be bad. I can see the ZWO manual wheel is only 19mm. Many thanks

Thanks for that David., useful info. That said this ha image I saw yesterday with the gt81 was mind blowing. So much detail. 👍

Thanks for the input Adam. No. I wouldn't want the resolution to suffer you are right there. I need to work out alot more about this aspect of imaging and combining gear. I have often been frustrated at the FOV but can live with that for a while longer. Tbh the focuser was one of the main bugbears on my current set up but I figured £150 or more for a good one was better spent on a new scope. Decisions..

Hi all I have the SW Ed80 on my Heq5 and have been working on dso with a Atik 314 mono. I usually takes me ages to get data for an image 😁. I was thinking of upgrading scopes and had the two above on the list. Has anyone experience of these two. I thought the Esprit would be best for me but I know the WO is abit faster and saw an incredible horeshead done with it yesterday. Any input to help me decide much appreciated. TIA

thanks !

thanks looks interesting..no idea what it is though ??

yes Halfords are a no no after trying to charge me 60 for a rubber wiper on the car

Thanks, good idea.The tracer battery is a bit pricey , i'm sure its great but i need to upgrade a few other things.