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Louis D

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Posts posted by Louis D

  1. 4 hours ago, Jiggy 67 said:

    Personally I prefer the uhc over the OIII. Its not just about the darkness of the sky but also the aperture of the scope. I also use an 8inch newt and find it's at the limit of usefulness for an OIII filter, it's just about enough for this filter but I definitely wouldn't bother with a smaller aperture because an OIII will just darken the image too much, you need as much light as possible with this filter which is why it is not the best for an 8inch. I find the UHC better as it has a wider bandpass. I love observing planetary nebula, many of them can be seen without a filter, a UHC will assist in making it stand out against a black background, some, even in light polluted skies. The same object disappears from view with an OIII...when it would look great with a 12inch scope. I use the Astronomik filter (all my filters are Astronomik or Baader) and can fully recommend it.

    At what exit pupil(s) are you observing?  I've used my 1990s Lumicon OIII down to 2mm EP on brighter nebula to good effect in my 8" Dob.  Yes the view dims, but if you study the image for a few minutes, fine edge details will tend to pop out that weren't obvious without it.  It's also indispensable to reveal the Veil nebula under Bortle 5 skies.

    • Like 1
  2. 12 hours ago, badhex said:

    Whatever they are made of now is a very lightweight, silver-white non-magnetic metal, possibly aluminium. 

    Generally pot metal is majority zinc.  That's what we're dealing with here.  Metals alloyed with it can include lead, tin, aluminium, and copper.  There is no standard for it.  In all cases, it has a low melting point and a porous, brittle structure.  Based on the images below of a broken SkyTee-2 mount, they're also cast from pot metal:

    I'm sticking with mounts machined from solid billets of aluminum like my DSV-1 and DSV-2B mounts for my scopes.

    • Like 1
  3. 13 hours ago, vagk said:

    I recently bought one brand new Pentax XW 5mm that says on its label "Made in Japan". Does it mean the lenses are made in Japan and the assembly in Philippines ?

    It could simply be old stock in new packaging.  Did the box say Ricoh anywhere?  My XWs are similarly marked as "Made in Japan", so it might come down to origin of part percentages under US law.  It could also be they're not concerned with US labeling laws.  Clearly APM isn't.  There's no way their eyepieces qualify as "Made in Germany", but many are marked Germany rather than China.  Perhaps by leaving out "Made in" they can skirt these country of origin laws?

  4. 57 minutes ago, Ags said:

    I've tried my Explore Scientific 20/68°, and felt it was pushing the magnification. Also, I think an eyepiece with a deeply recessed eye lens works best for solar. That's partly the reason why I favor the SLV 25.

    Good point.  Trouble for me is that I can't wear my eyeglasses with most of them to correct out my 2.0 diopters of eye astigmatism.

    Although, you could try these:

    spacer.png

    or these:

    spacer.png

    to block the sunlight.

    • Like 1
  5. At those focal ratios, give the SVBONY 68° Ultra Wide Angle 20mm a chance.  I was surprised at how good they are Barlowed and binoviewed:

    They handily beat my widefield, long eye relief vintage B&L 15x microscope pair that I've used as my benchmark for years.  Both pairs are terrible below f/12.

    I like the wide field, long eye relief, and sharp/contrasty optics of the Svbony.  The price is nice as well.  They're only $30 each from the Svbony store here in the US.

    • Like 1
  6. 2 minutes ago, Zeta Reticulan said:

    They were originally made by Barsta. They have been marketed with several brand names. I'm not sure who actually manufactures them now. The Barsta site has disappeared. 

    Barsta appeared to be an aggregator/wholesaler of stuff made by a multitude of unnamed companies.  I never got the impression they had their own factories like KUO, JOC, Ningbo Sunny, GSO, Long Perng, etc.  Barsta seemed more similar to today's Svbony except that Barsta didn't seem to sell directly to the public.

  7. Well, I went to lean forward one night to better peer into an eyepiece, and BAM!, one side of the stool collapses.  Basically, the asymmetric load sheared off some of the load bearing tabs around the periphery of the upper rings under the side I leaned toward.  See my write-up below:

    Basically garbage now.  I'd say I got 2 or 3 good nights of use out of it.  I'd consider it a disposable stool at this rate.

  8. 19 hours ago, NGC 1502 said:


    I’ve owned all focal lengths of BST Starguiders except the 25mm.

    I found the best of the bunch are the 5mm, 8mm, 12mm and for the price are exceptional. The 15mm and 18mm were not as good with my f4.8 Dob but still not too bad considering the price.  The 3.2mm was a disaster and perhaps a faulty unit. I realise the 3.2mm produces very high power, but compared with my 2.5mm and 4mm Vixen LVs the BST 3.2mm Starguider was only sharp in centre field and very fuzzy off axis.  

    I agree with your experiences.  The 25mm is a slight improvement from the 15mm and 18mm units, but it is certainly no 24mm APM UFF.  See my write-up versus the Meade HD-60s:

    I recall someone on CN also commenting that the 3.2mm has off-axis issues.  I didn't pick one up because it wasn't part of the used package I bought, and I saw no reason to complete the set based on these shaky reviews.  Besides, I rarely use my 3.5mm Pentax XW, so the 3.2mm BST/Paradigm would have just about zero utility for me.

    • Like 2
  9. 10 hours ago, Don Pensack said:

    Nice detailed review on the technical side of things.  Based on all the feedback so far, it seems like a 7.7mm-14mm design stretched to 15.4mm to make it a 2x range.

    That reminds me of comments on the BHZ not showing any more true field beyond 20mm.  From there to 24mm, it just shrinks the AFOV and magnification proportionally to keep TFOV constant, so not a particularly useful range.  Again, the design was stretched to make it a 3x range.

    It definitely sounds like a good Christmas present to me from the wife.  It's not something I desperately need, but it would be a nice item to have at my disposal.  I could see it being useful for travel.  Right now, I use a Celestron Regal 8-24mm zoom for travel.

    • Like 1
  10. 22 hours ago, Second Time Around said:

    Which was your one, Louis, so we can avoid it?

    It is a Mini-Max 17.7.  Below are pictures of it.  I did a brief write-up 2.5 years ago here:

    Open with its box to the side:

    2101575000_Mini-MaxStoolOpen.JPG.f9fb5409ab6308ce77f3ad647cd469db.JPG

     

    Open but tilted over after I sat on it (notice newly broken tabs around it):

    334962488_Mini-MaxStoolBrokenTilt.JPG.dc85b2649845fb1275c09008ccbb6acc.JPG

     

    View of the broken rings underneath the top:

    2087878883_Mini-MaxStoolBrokenCloseup.thumb.JPG.eb9a69e647c17e9981c655da7220cad5.JPG

     

    Sat on it again, and it broke further:

    1060786247_Mini-MaxStoolBrokenFurther.thumb.JPG.0778f31b63ea243f27aac85c9ed598b2.JPG

     

     

    Completely broken in two now:

    1375745571_Mini-MaxStoolBrokenSeparated.thumb.JPG.223040eb71d534d7d44169a0a69b6404.JPG

     

    Box label and broken tabs:

    81523427_Mini-MaxStoolLabelBrokenTabs.JPG.6ad55211efc0fd3c47ef6148b4705ec1.JPG

     

    Basically, it's a piece of junk.  What a waste of $40.  Worst astro accessory I've ever bought by far.

    • Sad 2
  11. 2 hours ago, Second Time Around said:

      

    Telescopic Folding Stool.jpg

    The plastic tabs sheared off on several of the plastic rings on mine when I leaned forward toward the eyepiece and put excess pressure on one side instead of evenly around the whole circumference.  Great idea, poor execution.  It needs to be made from a stronger material that is more shear resistant.

    • Sad 1
  12. 11 hours ago, col said:

    I'll check collimation again as the star test didn't show concentric circles but what looked like a tiny globular cluster

    It could have been seeing conditions breaking up the airy disk.  Make sure to pick a semi-bright star near zenith to minimize seeing conditions.  Also, the star must be centered or the star test won't tell you much about collimation.

    • Like 1
  13. Patios and decks in the US are usually right up against the back of the house which seems like a terrible place for an observatory.  You haven't exactly said where your patio is in relation to the house, shed, trees, shrubs, etc.

    Why would your wife be willing to give up the patio?  Mine would dead set against it since she likes to sit out on the patio in the evening sometimes.  This would be difficult with an observatory plunked down on top of it.  Most folks in the US put their observatory toward the back edge of their backyard to get it far away from the house and neighboring houses.

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