ngwillym

Sharpcap default to SER video files when using very short exposures. It goes back to Fits or tif or png when exposures are greater than 1sec. Also, you can change the file type in Sharpcap itself (turn off the auto button) or you can set the default file type in the sharpcap settings.

Neil

12 luminance subs
11 bad pixels
10 (k)nights with clouds
9 RGB frames
8 amps of power
7 planets shining
6 wavelets altered
a 5 position filter wheel
4 narrowband filters
3 element Triplet
2 stars binary
1 Crab Nebula glowing
in the sky

 

 

Actually just a ZWO ASI 533 - there has been so much bad weather I didn't think I'd make it any worse

to me, it looks like Registax is not Debayering the image - set debayering to RGGB before stacking - or you're not capturing in the correct video format - either RAW or RGB24 - preferably RAW

You might find these useful:-

 

https://uncle-rods.blogspot.com/2011/05/getting-deforked.html

https://uncle-rods.blogspot.com/2015/01/deforking-bertha.html

 

 

+1 for Steve - did a lovely job on myC11

18 hours ago, StarDodger said:

I Have a full list of them if you need..

Can you post the list here please - was also thinking of the same thing

Thanks in advance

Neil

I had a slightly non-standard request for the guys at Opticstar, but after a quick exchange of emails, that took all of 30 mins, we'd agreed on what could be done and how it could be paid for.

Order placed and has arrived within 36 hours - with full tracking info provided.

Can't fault their communication and helpfulness. It's not the first time I've dealt with them and they have always been extremely helpful in finding the stuff I've needed.

Neil

 

8 minutes ago, DRT said:

Thanks for your post, Neil - very informative!

Can I ask how you are testing whether or not the beam behind the 35nm Ha filter is cool?

To be honest I'm not doing too much testing - just touch at the edges of the quark nosepeice - nice and cool.

While I think of it, i might just fit the quark with its cover on and see if it melts next time :-)

 

I went through this loop a few months ago - having cracked a filter in front of my Quark - I suspected that the UV/IR filter was 'dodgy' - of dubious quality from a well known auction site - caveat emptor.

 

However, I contacted Daystar directly - in April this year-  after seeing a couple of threads on CloudyNights:-

My question to them was:-

I was just checking with you for confirmation that it is possible to use a Quark Chromosphere on a 127mm f7.5air spaced Apochromatic refractor with just a 2" UV/IR cut filter - i.e. without the need for any other type energy rejection filter -  as per the  discussion on CloudyNights forum - https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/527861-good-news-from-daystar-about-using-quark-ep-with-uvir/

Their response:-

Yes, the UV/IR cut filter is a sufficient energy rejection blocking filter with your 127mm Refractor

 

and to be doubly sure I contacted Rupert @Astrograph - who supplied my Quark - and asked about the 35nm Halpha filter - here's his reponse:-

The UV/IR cut is often recommended as a simple ERF for systems. We have found however that there is quite a variation between brands. We have had most success with the Astronomik UV/IR and also Daystars own (I am not sure who makes that). Although it does not have the ‘hole’ in the Calcium H/K area as the other two have, the Baader UV/IR resulted in a burnt filter that was placed between it and a Quark (this is what happened to me), so we do not recommend that. In experiments we found that a 2” UV/IR was effective up to 100mm aperture but even with this you could feel heat in the beam that passed through it. While the Quark has a blocking filter in its nose which should kill any residual energy, We elected not to recommend use of a UV/IR above 100mm.

 

The Baader 35nm Ha filter has proven very effective as an ERF. I have used it successfully with scopes up to 152mm. The beam behind it is cool, even on a 152. For your 127 I would definitely recommend it.

 

For best results with an internal ERF, you should place it as far forward as possible. This is so it encounters the light beam when it is least concentrated. The filter is not stressed and will be more effective.. An internal ERF does cause some slight spherical aberration. However visually it is still better than a basic coloured glass front mounted ERF. The Baader front mount D-ERF is however far superior and offers a sharper image.

 

I've been using my Quark on my 127mm Apo with the Baader 35nm filter since that time, with no problems

hope this helps.

Neil

 

And the download link for 'bahtinov grabber without autofocus' still works - it will download a zip file with both 32 and 64 bit versions

Alternatively, buy a new bubble level and stick it on the mount base?

Another thumbs up for the polar alignment feature.

I'd struggled several times with PHD2 drift alignment, but with Sharpcap - including the time clouds got in the way - less than one hour to get the EQ8 aligned with areported (by shaprcap) accuracy of ~3 arcsec  - doubt if I could get any better - I'm thinking the imaging was seeing limited.

Achieved using my 70mm F5 Celestron Travelscope (piggyback on my C11 as finder/guider) and a QHY5L-II mono with 0.5 reducer.

lots of karma to Robin

Neil

And, if you're wondering the big orange box - £8 tool case from B&Q - houses the 60Ah battery and sundry power focussed accessories (inverter for PC power and the charger, power leads, dew system etc) On the top are two sets of 12v car lighter sockets giving me access to 7 sockets - the other on has a usb converter in it.

And of course I just had to stick the phone over the eyepiece

First LIght

My new Opticstar 127mm Apo on a new EQ5+Synscan upgrade

The scope has been in its box since the start of December and the mount has been in the living room for a couple of months longer

But by 'eck it was cold - -6c here - enough to completely frost over the finder - fortunately I bought a dew heater for the scope.

Hi Neil, try this link.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Telescope-Guidebook-What-Can-You/dp/0971092400

These are in the USA http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0971092400/ref=dp_olp_used_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=used

I just bought one for £55 delivered from here http://www.amazon.de//gp/offer-listing/0971092400/sr=/qid=/?condition=used&tag=bkfndr84-b-1-21

Steve

£160 !!!!!!!!!!My sainted aunt. I've still got my original copy - spiral bound,  in almost mint condition

Excellent post.

And - if anyone ever found a copy - there was a book published - I think in the early 2000's called "Telescope Guidebook Vol1: What Can You See" by Roger Blake of Taurus Technologies - very useful as it gave impressions of what can be seen through a variety of scopes at various magnifications - its a little confusing to understand the layout at first, but worth persevering.

Interestingly - I've never been able to find Vols 2 and beyond

Neil

The gift that keeps on giving - Jake (jnc71106) - thanks for the instructions and pictures - just fitted my upgrade kit - couldn't have done it with the supplied instructions (I use the word instructions in its widest meaning ).