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About Grimbles

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    Star Forming

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  1. Plus 1 for the 450d or the 500d. I use a modded 500d now but originally the 450d, both very good and pretty cheap to pick up secondhand.
  2. Hi I currently use a modded 500d with my 150pds example (not the best) below. I have also used a modded 450d. In terms of noise the best ISO for the 500D seems to be 1600 but for the 450D it was 800.
  3. Hi Everyone, Been a little while since I posted an image, mostly due to poor weather etc. Managed to get out for a couple of hours on Saturday and had a little while on M51. 150PDS with modded EOS500D on HEQ5 Guided. Only 20 x 180s Lights ISO 1600 dithered with flats and bias. Processed DSS and PS CC I still have an issue on the left side of the image with elongated stars, I have pretty much tracked this down to just a fraction of sag in the focuser which I need to try to resolve. A slight crop and and close cropped version. Thanks Martin
  4. Excellent image, I really like that FOV.
  5. Astro Babys guide starts with spider vane adjustment, I think you have already been there but here's the link any way. http://www.astro-baby.com/astrobaby/help/collimation-guide-newtonian-reflector/ If you follow the whole collimation guide from start to finish you will not go far wrong, many people use and recommend this guide.
  6. I assume you mean the secondary spider vanes, which shouldn't need much force at all, slacken one side then tighten the opposite side. if you apply too much force you will start to distort the tube which will cause other problems. Lightly finger tight is all I do to mine. If you mean secondary adjustment screws, then again just nipped up is enough, you may have to loosen one to adjust another, but don't try to physically force anything you will risk stripping a thread or worse. It is not nearly a bad or difficult as it may seem at first just go slow and do not be too heavy handed. Martin
  7. Hi Your images definitely show a few issues. On an F4 scope collimation is pretty critical especially if you are going to be imaging, I would follow Astro Baby' s guide (which is excellent) closely, for example if your spider vanes are not equal lengths to start with then your secondary will not be centred. Secondary offset is something that is usually set at manufacture in how the secondary mirror is mounted on the holder. Once collimated the offset will be visible in the final views of the collimation process again Astro Baby explains this very well. Just follow the guide and you will be fine, but you may need to have a couple of attempts, again with an F4 scope for imaging try to get all the adjustments as close as possible. Secondary adjustment is definitely the trickiest part but take things slowly and once you have done it a few times it will become easier, and when correct shouldn't need touching again. Good Luck Martin
  8. Hi I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/HUION-lightweight-Lightning-Adjustable-Illumination/dp/B079C3FMR3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=huion+A4&qid=1552421490&s=kitchen&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 It has variable light setting which I use the lowest for a modded DSLR and also use it for Ha Flats from the same DSLR. I always seem to get decent Flats.
  9. Hi Astronomik CLS Filter 2" £95 posted, bank transfer preffered but can do PayPal . I have only used this filter a couple of times as I managed to solve my light pollution problem another way i.e had a chat with the nieghbours. I used it with a modded DSLR and the colour balance was very good. According to Astronomik suitability as follows: Suitability Visual observation (dark skies): Good, to reduce light pollution by mercury-vapour lamps (streetlight) Visual observation (urban skies): Good, an UHC-E or UHC filter is more suitable Film photography: Very good, colour balance is near perfect CCD photography: Good, when used with an additional IR-block-filter (!) DSLR photography (astro modified): Very good, colour balance is near perfect DSLR photography (MC modified): Good, when used with an additional IR-block-filter DSLR photography (original): Good, colour balance shifted but contrast enhanced Webcam / Video (Planets): Unsuitable Webcam / Video (Deep Sky): Very good, if light pollution is a big problem Thanks Martin
  10. Hi I had the same problem sometime back, turned out it was just a cheap t-ring adapter (thought I was getting a bargain, ended up spending more). I purchased a Baader adapter and now it is now rock solid. Martin
  11. Great shot especially for handheld
  12. Hi Everyone, Just spent the last 3 hours sat outside waiting for even the smallest break in the clouds. Had a couple of 10sec gaps at about 0310, just enough to get some sort of focus, then nothing but solid cloud . I was about to pack up when I had the shortest of breaks at 0523, just enough to press the shutter three times. Given that I didn't have time to focus properly or play with exposures I managed to grab the following: EOS750d , Static Tripod, 100-400mm 5.6L, .6sec ISO 6400 @400mm f5.6 A bit of noise reduction, saturation and crop in PS.
  13. ? I can't believe this hasn't sold yet. I must have first seen this in November, it has been relisted several times, obviously there is no one out there who can recognise a bargain. ?
  14. I had the same problem with my 150pds and like you traced it to light leak around the primary. My solution was to use a bungy loop to hold a piece of black polythene over the back of the scope, this can easily be taken on/off for collimation and star tests etc. Martin
  15. Hi Yes I used the Baader MPCC mkIII which i find is very good. Any slightly odd star shapes will be down to the focuser alignment which I am still tweaking to try to get right, also I have to remove and replace the camera for every session which does not help. Martin
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