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Everything posted by myk68

  1. Hi Olly only filter was a luminesence baader, uv/lr I think. thats all. the filter wheel wasnt loaded otherwise I may have gone colour. If I add the FR 0.63 to the C8 would the view be big enough for the outer halo?? mike
  2. Hi All So no work to get up for this week and clear skies. I can hardly take it. working on getting the system working altogether and passing by M51 thought I'd give it a 'quick' try and am quite impressed with the results. I wasn't expecting this level of detail from 20 second exposures, 93 frames of 210 used. Equipment old C8 and Atik 314L+. had to be short exposures as my guiding is playing up. I'm happy with this even though I think the collimation needs more tweeking. Thanks for looking Mike
  3. yeah I saw that but seen as the scope is 102 optic how can the dimensions be 10x47.?
  4. Hi does anyone know the physical size of the skywatcher startravel 102 ota. just thinking if it would fit my backpack for air travel Cheers Mike
  5. Hi Olly Just had a look around and I guess some of the issues your referring to are the pin point focus and collimation that hyperstar requires. you see the idea was that that set up would seem to give me a good wide view one way and a good close veiw the other for smaller targets. however smaller targets are dimmer targets and F10 will need a lot of exposure. not something im getting here in the uk at the moment. Ive never had a newtonian of any kind so they would be new. I guess I need to decide what i want to image in the deep sky area. ok from what im getting the 450L will need a longer exposure than the 314L that I have due to the smaller pixel size. is that correct?
  6. yeah I thought it would take a bit if time but I have that option. Also thinking about it I'll go with mono as I can then always add a filter wheel and this gives me the chance to use Ha too. so still thinking edge C8 and 450L mono is the way to go. Anyone k now about the 420EX??
  7. Hi Dave Im not a fan of OSC as I have never had much luck with the old qhy8 I bought 2nd hand but that may be different with the newer OSCs. also I can see that the OSC exposure length would gain from the F2 of hyperstar hmmm however the 2500 was the total for both new scope and camera lol, but i like your thinking.
  8. Hi all So i find myself in the lucky position to be thinking of upgrading a few bits. I've gone mad looking round going ouu that looks good , no that's maybe a better idea , oh look there's a third option. aaagghhhh. I think you know what I mean. So I thought Ill ask the ever helpful community. Im looking to retire my old Orange C8 and am thinking the edge HD C8 would be a worthy successor. hyperstar/fastar and all that. This would seem to give me the option of wide field in hyperstar setup and close up and personal in 'normal' set up. Which sounds good to me seeing as I like the option to change what I fancy imaging at the drop of a hat. I realise it will take longer than that but the option is there. Now, camera change is on the cards too and i'm thinking return the 314+L to the ed 80 and up the game with the 450L to use on the new HD C8 in which ever position is needed. I just wanted to ask does this sound like a useful all round set up or are there any other ideas for around the same total cost. which now I've put it together is around £2500. Thanks for looking and any help appreciated. Mike
  9. First of all thank you for the input all. Olly, I know you know your stuff so thank you for that explaination, it makes sense. I also would go with this as the centre of the image does look 'perfect', its the surrounding area that doesnt seem to fit. I take it from this that Williams back focus of 45mm will make very if any difference. Therefore REMOVE IT seems to be the only option. I always wondered why you needed an astrograph or some other equipment when I just had a 3.3 reducer. Ah well another step up that learning curve(cliff) lol Mike
  10. Hi Derek its a long time since I have had the 314L on the C8 so couldnt say for sure. I seem to remember I got it working fine without the FR,but the field of view is small as you would expect, and I thought I had had it working with it too but this may have been with the wheel off and may still have had the issue. Is there nothing I can do to resolve it?? am I trying to 'widen' the view for my C8 to much? mike
  11. Hi all You know the old adage 'Don't fix what ain't broken' Wellllll ..... I've had the chance of a QHY8 so have changed my set up around. the 314L+ is now on the C8 and the QHY8 is on the 80ED. Did not expect the rather great increase in exposure time, the QHY8 seems so less sensitive than the 314L. any way thats maybe another post. The issue I found last night was this, with the 314L on the C8 Now I had to set the camera up as in the next image as this was the only position I could get it to focus. I have a Meade FR 3.3 on the back on the C8, then a 10mm and a 15mm adapter, a 1mm perspex washer(otherwise the adapter stops the filter wheel from rotating), then the Atik filter wheel and finally the 314L Im guessing I need a different spacing or something, or is it a field flattener.?? I used to have this as my guide scope with the IC16 and never noticed this effect. Ideas anyone? cheers Mike
  12. Hi All I'm sure I have seen this somewhere but cant find it when I want it. How do I work out how far back I need to have the camera from the back of the scope, or from the end of the focuser. Im sure I have seen this somewhere. Cheers
  13. Cracking, it does have one column of pixels that are dark but this can be corrected for. mike
  14. sounds about right then. Cheers for that steve. I cant find anything about a guide port on it anyone know if i can use it for guiding as well as imagining?
  15. Lovely, cheers for the reassurance guys.
  16. Hi All Now I hold my hands up and have to admit I didnt realize I was making a bid on ebay. I thought I was asking if they would accept £500 for the thing but I have so hay ho. Any way my question is- is this a good price or have I just paid more than I should have for this camera.?? Mike
  17. hiya Dave yes all played out in PS although my skills are fairly raw with it. played with the 600s and then added them as a luminance to the previous RGBs. I then pulled a bit more saturation out for a more pleasing colour
  18. As the title says. retried this from the other night as I didnt seem to get much details It now has 11 200s LRGB and 16 600s L. with a 90 ccw rotation as this is how it looks in stellerium Cheers for looking and comments welcome
  19. looks better than the 12 200s subs I got. may have to try a 100 30 seconders. nice one
  20. great thanks for the input guys, and gal, yeah my tracking seems to be working at the mo with about 2 pixel shft so next chance I get I'll go for 10 mins and see what I get. So I dont need so many rgb then nmoushon?
  21. Nice image, did you adjust the saturation or anything for those colours?
  22. I really like that Gina. Do you image the RGB binned or is this done afterwards. I dont get how this doesnt loose you detail in the final image Mike
  23. I really like that Gina. Do you image the RGB binned or is this done afterwards. I dont get how this doesnt loose you detail in the final image Mike
  24. hey all Now this one I was expecting a bit more from. it has LRGB, all channels are 200 seconds, at the moment 10 images each channel. Should I do more images with the same 200 seconds or more with longer exposures.?? Mike
  25. Hi all again Another to peruse over. I do like using Photoshop over maxim, soooooo much easier once your head stops exploding from the menus and options available. As always any comments welcome and thanks for looking. Mike
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