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pete_gamby

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Posts posted by pete_gamby

  1. As far as I recall the Skywatcher polar scopes didn't fit the GP mounts but someone else may remember better!

    It's a shame they don't include detailed dimensions of the thing in the user guide. If the diameter of the nosepiece was such that it would fit into the polar scope hole with a gap around it, you might be able to then 3D print a collar-style adapter to secure it in place.

    Cheers, Pete

    • Like 1
  2. If you are using the alignment process in the Starbook S and the mount is not physically perfectly polar aligned, the controller will constantly "nudge" the DEC motor to maintain tracking. This "feature" was typically referred to as DEC jump.

    The received wisdom for imaging with a Starbook or Starbook S was to not use the controller to align but to make sure physical polar alignment is spot on (polar scope, drift align etc) so that only the RA motor is in use to track/image.

    I'd tend to agree that overloading is also not helping.

    Cheers, Pete (who used to be Vixen product manager at Opticron)

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  3. This diagram shows the ED81S and as you can see even on that model, the focusser extends well into the main tube. The attachment point of focusser to main tube is the far left vertical red line at the top of the diagram.

    Actually, removing the focusser is quite easy - they unscrew without much force required. However, in my experience there is a risk of small flakes of the blackening paint coming off as you unscrew the tube so you need to take care not to have these drop on to the optics. Removing the focusser from the bottom while someone else holds the whole scope vertically seemed to minimise the risk.

    There's also the chance that you might mis-thread the focusser when re-attaching it as the thread itself is very shallow. Take care to mark the release point (and the seated alignment position before removal).

    Cheers, Pete

    image.png.5f93eb4630b35fec7fa34e4e68de8593.png

    • Like 1
  4. Looking at the user guide for the EQ2, it appears to normally be supplied with one long and one short control cable whereas your photo appears to show two long cables.

    The fittings for the cables are standard so you could buy a short cable (couldn't find a link to one thought) or control knob like this Vixen one:

    https://www.bresser.de/Astronomie/Zubehoer/Montierungen/Vixen-Feinjustageknopf-fuer-AP-GP2-und-GPD2-Montierungen.html

    HTH

    Cheers, Pete

     

    image.png.853e2027abee93d426a786b6d412e6ac.png

  5. We never saw the 3728 adapter in the nine years we had the Vixen range which suggests it is very, very ancient history!

    A rather convoluted solution would be use these three in combination:

    https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-1-25-inch-t-mount-camera-nosepiece-adapter.html

    https://www.bresser.de/Astronomie/Vixen-R200SS-20mm-Verlaengerungshuelse.html

    https://www.bresser.de/Astronomie/Zubehoer/Vixen-DC-43-36-4-mm-Reduzierring.html

    The R200SS extension tube attaches to the T2 thread on the FLO adapter to give a 43mm female thread which the DC reducer then screws into to give a 36.4mm female thread for the eyepiece.

    HTH

    Cheers, Pete

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    • Thanks 1
  6. No it won't. That RJ port is ST4 autoguider compatible. You'd need to upgrade to the Starbook TEN to allow you to control the mount via ASCOM or the ASI but that's a pretty expensive upgrade to get something which in essence you don't then use!

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  7. The user guide for the scope does show a more detailed (but typically non-informative) schematic for the various AP connection options. It does take some out of the box thinking to arrive at where you have DroneSaif!

    Vixen designs its products to service its domestic market and the widespread use of Canon DSLR for AP in Japan (and probably also what the company president uses) is what would have made them develop a full frame adaptor only for that brand:

    https://global.vixen.co.jp/en/product/38751_9/

    Even in the diagram, the CCD camera is shown connecting via T-C rather than something more up to date and therefore using the 60mm-T ring!

    Cheers, Pete

    image.thumb.png.20fd6b8057dfb23de62cf3e9cb5a34bc.png

  8. The SB One doesn't have the functionality to be linked to a PC and if you purchased the SX2 and upgraded to the SB Ten you'd probably pay nearly as much as you would for an SXD2 which has the SB Ten.

    To a great extent, the SB Ten becomes rendundant if you want PC control of the mount - it simply acts as an expensive interface between the mount and the computer/network! The SB Ten with the optional Advanced Function Unit was intended to remove the need for a PC for astrophotography by offering control of the camera shutter, guiding etc all on the controller.

    Hope that helps.

  9. The process is almost but not quite as shown in Steve's guide. These pics and instructions might help you identify which bits need tweaking to reset the dioptre adjustment but if you need some help call our service department on 01582 726522, option 1.

    Incidentally those binos were covered by a 30 year, transferrable warranty so you will probably have some element of that still remaining.

    Cheers, Pete
    Sales Manager, Opticron

    wp obs dioptre adjustment.pdf

    • Like 4
  10. If it has a 60mm aperture on the top, then it could be that all you'd need is a 60mm to 45mm reducer:

    https://www.berlebach.de/?bereich=details&id=611&sprache=english

    But there is the added complication of the azimuth pin positioning!

    A (massively convoluted) way around that would be to get two 60-45mm reducer rings and one of the Vixen 45mm to 60mm adaptor plates which has a removable/movable azimuth pin - item 75169 here:

    https://www.vixenoptics.co.uk/Pages/connection_specifications.html

     

     

  11. The dovetail that was supplied with the later accessory plates is Vixen's part number 2662:

    https://www.vixenoptics.com/Vixen-Universal-Slide-Bar-p/2662.htm

    I assume it's silver plated rather than brushed aluminium because even for Vixen, $90 for a slide bar is lot of money 🙂

    As AdeKing mentions above, it attaches to the 1/4" threaded holes arranged the central longest axis of the plate.

    The old green plates had a different coloured dovetail - you can see the centre of it and how the bolts attach it in the Company 7 listing image - but the principle is the same.

    HTH

    Cheers, Pete

    • Thanks 2
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