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pipnina

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Posts posted by pipnina

  1. 12 minutes ago, tooth_dr said:

    I’ve used my Nikon D800E with my epsilon and the flats are similar.  It’s because it’s full frame and the issue is light reflecting off the edge of the mirror (when it’s flipped up taking an exposure) creating flats that don’t match the lights. Careful processing might help mitigate it a little but only by physically removing the mirror box can you resolve it completely.

    Now this is interesting... After you brought this up I looked at my flat RAWs in both pix and rawtherapee...

    The same file, stretched in a different program seemingly causes a massively different result?

    Screenshot_20240108_210721.thumb.png.a4097e5bcf03db8affeefd0b9b950a4b.pngScreenshot_20240108_210739.thumb.png.8040e1766034186a7e09758fe0184e7a.png

    The bottom image seems like it would cause the issue in my final stack, whereas the top one seems totally innocuous!

    Could the camera be embedding something in the raw file that programs can tap into to perform "correction"? Why would PIX apply it in one context (calibration) but not another (viewing)?

    Most puzzling, I am going to have to delve further into this...

    • Like 1
  2. Screenshot_20240108_194346.thumb.png.3949d97cd110bdc2791359bbc6e4b7da.png

    I have been trying to get something to enter for the 50mm lens challenge, and figured my new-old DSLR kit would be a pretty good setup to enter with... However I seem to be encountering issues with calibration. All I've taken is flats and lights, as I thought bias/darks often were not useful for DSLRs due to a lack of temperature control and ADU offset? It seemingly worked a bit better than this in my D3200/Sigma 105 lens but I am not sure what's causing this issue.

    As you can see in the stacked and autostretched image above the corners seem quite bright with maybe skyglow, the lower quadrent is comparatively dark and the middle has this odd glowing bow, and between the green and grey it's actually purple. I have to put this down to flat calibration issues as the un-calibrated lights alone produce a very normal (but highly vignetted) image. Sadly the stack below I forgot to turn on debayering but it does show the image coming out as I would expect, no odd shapes in the vignette that might cause the issue above, meaning I must be doing something wrong in capture or setting something incorrectly in pix? My flats should have been at the same focus, aperture, iso etc as my lights but at a very short exposure time due to the fast lens and high ISO (800) of my lights, I think 1/4000 putting the center of the image in the middle of the histogram.

    Screenshot_20240108_194638.thumb.png.58e3e9ec1d3bbddbbcb7cf5b16994e92.png

    Any tips from more experienced pix + DSLR shooters greatly appreciated! 3 lights and 3 flats in the files below if anyone wants a closer gander!

    Many thanks

     

    _DSC1087.NEF _DSC1088.NEF _DSC1089.NEF _DSC1060.NEF _DSC1061.NEF _DSC1062.NEF

  3. 7 minutes ago, PhilB61 said:

    Have you considered boxing all the heavy bulky stuff up in advance and then having it couriered out to you after you arrive at your new location, probably no more expensive than what it would cost you in selling your current gear and then having to buy replacements in Europe. 

    Sadly I'm highly likely to need to transport it some distance & without a car, at most I'd be able to have a motorbike for some time I'd guess.

    I'd be going to Nordrhein Westfallen in an area where I'd be on 4th floor and have to lug all that down the stairs and to a close by park! Not great if my kit weighs 40+KG haha. I do certainly hope after a while I'd be able to move to a different part of that area with either a garden or at least roof access but I'd have to make do for a while!

    It could even be a matter of cut right back to basics but I want to consider all options first...

  4. Hi!

    I might need to relocate to another country in Europe this year, and as such I am faced with the necessity of parting with my current setup as it would be impossible to take with me at all let alone take on a plane. I am wondering now if besides setting my kit on a star adventurer with a DSLR lens, are there setups I could build that would fit into motorcycle and plane luggage capacity?

    Currently I have:

    HEQ5-PRO (The most obvious thing to go)

    130mm f6 triplet (The next most obvious thing to go)

    RisingCam 571 with ZWO filter wheel and chroma LRGB-SII-Ha-OIII filters (I want to keep this if possible, possibly the least sensible financial decision of my life...)

    Mini PC (maybe 20x20x8cm)

    Pegasus Power Box Advanced

    50mm f4 finder with ZWO 120mm mini.

    I have thought as a first step about swapping my 130mm triplet for something like the WO Pleiades 68, despite its higher cost it is a faster scope (so better for shorter sessions that might need a commute) compact at only 34cm in length but still relatively long at 260mm focal length. The only issue here besides cost would be that it is slightly faster than the f4 rating on the chroma filters? I don't know how much the 0.2 fs will affect their performance but hopefully they would still be usable?

    I could probably fit the pegasus box, my ZWO EAF and the guide scope onto that easily enough. But what about power if i am going out, and my HEQ5 is still more than a little too monstrous... I have thought about one of the new ZWO AM3 mounts, maybe without the insanely priced tripod if my Manfrotto 055 could hold it, it is some beefy thing. It would mean I could disregard the need for counterweights and is nice and compact... Assuming the WO scope and guide scope and camera can fit into that 8KG limit?

    Oh dear oh dear. This hobby has always proved stressful but I don't think I could give it up. If I can get a travel-ready setup then I suppose I could at least plan holidays to places with slightly more reliable conditions like rural spain, or is that wishful thinking?

    I don't know what I should do at this point as my current setup hasn't been used for over 2 months thanks to the great british weather. I sometimes think this hobby is reserved for simply more fortunate countries but I feel compelled to continue regardless.

    Does anyone here have thoughts? What kit are people currently using for grab and go imaging? Thanks.

  5. Despite the 75% moon I decided to take some chances last night as the last clear night felt like a lifetime ago. My first time seeing Orion since spring started.

    The main purpose was to test Kodak Ektar as an astro film stock, so after getting that going I had a general inspection of the sky that night. I must say the cold weather has brought it out nice and clearly. Not only were the stars barely twinkling at all, but typically I might expect about magnitude 4-4.2 to be my limit on a moonless night, however tonight despite the moony interference I was spotting stars of 4.5 with relative ease near Rigel and M42. When I looked further up near Perseus I could see in the most delicate of ways some stars around Mirfak, doing my absolute best to see what was going on around there and then conferring with my stellarium app I might have been spotting stars of even mag 5+! Certainly not common from home! Albeit these faint stars appeared as singular flicks of light spots in my eyes with slightly averted vision, but I still know that I have seen them and could only wish the sky would be this nice more often, or at least when the moon is not so bright!

    I also directed my attention towards Andromeda to see if the good conditions might allow me any sighting of M31, alas I don't think I caught it tonight but I had moments were I wasn't sure if I was seeing the galaxy's core or the final link in the "andromeda road" of stars that starts with Mirach. Given as said star is mag 4.5 I think I was only seeing the star.

    After my camera's exposure was complete I trekked back indoors and stood in front of the electric heater for a few minutes as by this point I was thoroughly chilled.

    For christmas I would very much like some more clear skies please.

    Good night all, and I wish you some fortune with the skies as well.

    • Like 5
  6. My HEQ5 Pro is going on 6 years old now and is starting to show a lot of rust in places like the counterweights, nyloc nuts etc, so that is worth bearing in mind although purely aesthetic unless the nuts rust through, which is likely quite a few more years away. Should be cheap to repair however.

    I haven't noticed any changes in mount performance though. It performs exactly as it did 6 years ago (I did do a rowan belt upgrade last year, internals seemed untouched but are mostly brass, which would explain why).

    I think a truly bad example of a use HEQ5 would be one with electrical issues or that has been hit/dropped with the clutches engaged, as that could damage the 705:1 gearing system.

    I don't know if bearing damage is likely since they are rather large and most bearings are rated for very high speed, and the bearings in this are unlikely to exceed single digit RPM.

    If the main board is dead you can replace it however, although at a cost of £150 (much less than the mount however) and if the motors are not working properly they can be found for likely £20-40 a pop as they are totally normal stepper motors.

    I hope this helps.

  7. On 13/11/2023 at 10:26, Dark Raven said:

    That is a fair shout. I would prefer to have a more modular / higher end system though.

    Maybe since systems like this are still new, there'll be a more expensive one in the future that features say an APS-C mono cam (that lets you add your own 36mm filters) and 70mm flattened f4.5 triplet/petzval or something.

    • Like 1
  8. If it's truly effective, expect to see it in professional camera lenses and telescopes for glare protection haha.

    Vantablack was never going to be good for telescopes because it required (IIRC) a ridiculous process to actually apply to materials. Black (2/3/4 versions) is supposedly a much nicer paint but I'm yet to see people flocking with it yet!

    • Like 1
  9. On 10/11/2023 at 21:44, Dark Raven said:

    ZWO is far from perfect and I am not a fan of closed platforms. Not to repeat myself, I stated my experience here: 

    It is great if you have time, fairly permanent setup and weather that permits tinkering often. But I have quite little time that I can devote to this hobby, I am mobile imager and need to drive to dark(er) location and although I work in Tech, out of principle, I draw a line at recompiling kernel to add camera driver. Used it with Pi4 8GB and Plenty of current, even build custom setup around INDI/EKOS/Stellarmate...

     

    It has failed me so many times... I`m sure it works just fine for many. Perhaps in my case it was inpatient user. To be clear, when same hardware is loaded with different software (retro gaming emulators, SkyAware Anywhere or AllSky Camera) it runs smooth under load. Went all in on ZWO, never lost a single night or exposure, never looked back...

    I have to be honest my experience with computerising my setup has also been a nasty one.

    I used my laptop, which was ok but meant leaving it out there to get damp and it of course used a lot of power.

    I used a raspberry pi, which had all sorts of issues with networking, USB bandwidth I think, and even the remote access features being often too slow to be usable

    I used a mini PC from ebay, which has worked ok but in the end I found myself using that just to host PHD2 and the indi server, with Kstars on my PC inside meaning I now need two PCs active!

    And something goes wrong invariably. Be it the camera not resuming capture (getting stuck) after autofocuses, indi randomly changing the driver for my cam (Risingcam571mono) and now it won't bias above 31ADU (used to use 256 to get the noise all above 0) random UI changes that made the software unusable for a while etc.

    Also some odd ritual I have to go through where after booting my setup, I need to unplug the mount, replug. Unplug my ASI120mm mini, blow into the USBC port on the cam, replug, make sure the pegasus astro box advance 12v power hasn't fallen out (it's very loose for some reason). If I don't do all that I get software errors for reason's I couldn't begin to postulate.

    I get 1000x better images than when I used a DSLR and synscan controller but it's so much more challenging to get everything going... All for the sake of goto, guiding, auto focus and capture/filter control. How is this not simpler???

    • Like 1
  10. 12 hours ago, Seelive said:

    Really? There seems to be many places with hills in my part of the UK.

    I have often been told by Scottish family that "england is flat" and to be fair I think a lot of it is compared to scotland. But devon/cornwall certainly seems hillier than most places I've been to. Certainly the Scottish family were surprised when they came down and this part of england was not flat haha.

  11. I live in one of the few places in England with hills (Plymouth) and have been spared outright flooding but my heart goes out to all who have had property damaged and lives disrupted.

    I wish you and your villages and towns a quick recovery from this island's miserable weather :(

    Maybe once the storm is fully past us we'll be rewarded with some crystal-like skies (now that's wishful thinking!)

  12. The last few months I've been worried my telescope might rust out and turn to dust before I next see clear skies haha.

    Using my visual kit is annoying as I have to pack the car and it's usually cold or very late, and I often get presented with muggy views. My imaging kit is annoying because it keeps bugging out on me (Kstars keeps failing at one thing or another, most recently after things like meridian flips or auto focus routines I have to manually take a snap with the camera or kstars gets stuck in a loop of failed captures...)

    It'll be worth it for when the skies clear again and I get to snap the pleiades, or M78, or one of the many other winter objects (I HOPE) but for now I see it sat there while the rain hammers down and the wind blows and wonder why I got into this hobby at all... Let alone spent so much money on it 🙃

    • Like 2
    • Sad 1
  13. I think the biggest impact for me besides light pollution is atmosphere quality.

    I have observed from my back garden and seen M51 easily, I've observed another time and it's been gone. The city lights hadn't changed but the atmosphere sure did!

    I've been to my dark site too, last year and I almost couldn't HELP but see M31! I was just stood there and it seemed to jump at my eyeballs from my peripheral vision, and in my dob I could see texture and a hard gap left by the innermost dust bank! I've seen on a year before that at the dark site, the outer winter milky way going through orion where the whole thing was like looking through glass. It had incredible texture and was so bright! I spied the flame quite easily in my dob that night. I also got lucky once with the sky quality and flew around the leo area of the sky. I felt like I could point my dob anywhere and see clusters of galaxies!

    Then, in contrast to that there's my most recent session. Murky and opaque. There weren't any clouds but andromeda wasn't visible to my eye alone. The milky way core was visible but seemed dull. I could spy a few friends like the veil but they were less pronounced than I've seen before. Andromeda was a faint blob.

    For reference my home is bortle 5 and my dark site is bortle 4, so both are far and away from either extreme end of darkness and city flood lamp. However I am on the coast so haze might not be as big an issue for people further inland?

    This country has the potential to give us great views but I feel we need to win a small lottery to get them! I often dream of moving to a spanish mountain so I can get dark and transparent skies AND almost no cloud cover! Sadly I am not sure how I would afford such a lifestyle and astronomy equipment at the same time haha.

    • Like 2
  14. My clear outside has stayed red for so long, my last imaging session before last saturday was in mid august!

    Even then, clearoutside can't tell you if the sky clarity is going to be any good, only that the sky will be visible. My trek to a bortle 4 area revealed that saturday was in fact very muggy and hazy despite the absence of clouds. 😕

  15. The effect seems exceptionally minimal- but weirdly I have seen something similar in a reflector image (no corrector lens, no filters!)

    It could be anything from the atmosphere, to light scattering in the dichroic anti-reflective coating (???) maybe even light being bent as it moves through the camera's AR glass window. I have no idea!

    To my mind this looks totally acceptable, and I thought I was a fussy one! I think you have a spectacular piece of kit!

    Sorry if that sounds aggressive, it's not meant to be. I'm just dismayed at how these tiny tiny little problems appear in sometimes the least likely places. And also amazed at how well this hobby turns us into pixel-peepers haha

  16. 2 minutes ago, ScouseSpaceCadet said:

    Clouds; The reason why I've decided to cut down to one do-it-all quality refractor and binoculars. Not being a collector of things (or very well off) a house cluttered with astro gear worth a few quid when the stuff is hardly used doesn't make sense.

    If the sky looks OK then I'm out but I give up obsessing over forecasts unless I'm planning on going away to a dark site.

    I too have considered gutting my setup for a smaller, more travel friendly one so I could go on holiday to places with good astro weather, and potentially move country entirely without leaving my kit behind, plus improving my setup and teardown time.

    I also am unlikely to be able to drive soon so if I could get a kit that would fit into motorbike-sized storage that would also be brilliant.

    • Like 1
  17. 29 minutes ago, Mr Spock said:

    Sunny and warm here at the moment. However...

     

    That's the view straight up, sun to the bottom. This is typical of the 'clear sky' I'm getting.

    Despite some people really wanting one, images like this make me glad that plymouth doesn't have an airport and is out of the line of fire for most national and international flights!

  18. I just got back from my first visual session in a year (!) tonight.

    Sadly the visibility was poor despite there being no clouds. I choke it up to a mixture of bad luck and the weather still being warm and holding lots of water (plus I am at the southern coast)

    But at a bortle 4 site the milky way was still visible from Aquila to Cassiopeia. Spied the ring, the veil, andromeda and both jupiter and saturn which seemed quite crisp but still a little wobbly due to being so low down.

    Maybe they could have been sharper, but my laser showed my 250mm dob's secondary was out of kilter again, and I didn't pack my allen keys! Doh!

    Unfortunately none of the sights were as spectacular as this time last year, all seemed muddier and fainter despite the veil (both major halves) being slightly salvaged by my UHC. Andromeda was a dull grey smudge whereas last year it poured into my eyes and gave me a crisp view of the dust band near the core.

    I am hoping for some good opportunities and weather in winter as I want to try my OIII and UHC filters out on orion subjects!

    I also took my new medium format film cam (Bronica ETRS) with me and took some snaps with it sat on my star adventurer. I'll develop the roll soonish to find out if there's anything much there. One shot I think got totally blown out by people with ultra-bright torches (You can see perfectly fine without them here! grrrrr!) and half way through a 17 minute  landscape shot of the beach and coastline it got photobombed by a ferry with 2000 lights on board!

    Either way it was worth going as these opportunities are seemingly increasingly rare.

    https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/787698576254959666/1160349869525979156/PXL_20231007_210447385.NIGHT.jpg?ex=65345707&is=6521e207&hm=6e16701f03bb61ed3ef33ca33e203344230707c96b7209f4f2c8c43fb23486ad&

    Here's a little snap I took with my Pixel6 resting on the car's windscreen.

    On the menu for tomorrow: Back to our usual scheduled water vapor blanket

    And the rest of the week? torrential rain...

    • Sad 2
  19. 2 minutes ago, Mandy D said:

    Yes! Thanks for that!

    I also noticed that someone is doing / has done a Kickstarter for a digital back for medium format cameras with a price tag of $400. That just makes it worse! Although, I do love B&W film in medium format!

    There is also a 3d printed medium format camera system if you wanted to only buy lenses and a film back haha.

    But then, the lenses for MF cameras typically use leaf shutters which in some cases can require repair if not buying them refurbished.

  20. 1 minute ago, Mandy D said:

    @pipnina Nice! You can watch that depth of field disappear, now! I loved shooting medium format many years ago, but it can be very challenging. I'm off to look up prices on your piece of gear now. Hopefully, that will put me off buying one. ;)

    Depending on how much you spent on a MF camera back then, you might be disappointed at how cheap they are today if your aim is to avoid spending money haha.

    If the page I saw was correct, that suggested a mamiya RB67 cost $2-3000 new in 1970, then its value has certainly plummeted as you can buy one today with a lens for about £500, less if you gamble on an ebay purchase, which might require repairs.

    • Like 2
  21. PXL_20230930_135942658.jpgPXL_20230930_135949670.jpgPXL_20230930_140020514.jpg

    I'd been eyeing up a medium format film camera for a while, and yesterday I pulled the trigger at a local store!

    Had carrying weight/size not been a concern I would have gotten a mamiya RB67 instead, but that thing weighs over 2KG with one of the shorter lenses and is about 2x the size of this tiny Bronica ETRS-i

    As soon as the clouds clear this is going straight onto my star adventurer! In the mean time I'm going to try and enjoy shooting 55x43mm negatives of more normal subjects and learning some light metering techniques.

    • Like 11
  22. R1-01523-0021-Rawtherapee.thumb.jpg.86af7c6507d00087040f513eb464633e.jpg

    Seeing a clear sky two weeks ago, I rushed out with my kit to see some very thin cloud. Because of this I decided to try an arty shot on the film camera instead of anything serious.

    I used the Fomapan 400 already most of the way through in my Canon AE1-Program and a 24mm tokina lens wide open at f2.8, hoya 25 red filter in front of the lens

    I chose an exposure length of 17 minutes and developed the film at box speed. Sadly it was quite underexposed and a FAT cloud drifted into view about 12-13 minutes in, which thankfully hasn't detracted from the shot *too* much.

    Awaiting my next chance to try this eagerly

    Also, Mr Winston the cat sat very patiently to the right of the apple tree and as such is visible as a grey blob haha! My fluffy photography assistant.

     

    Edit: Felt I might include a pic of the negative itself and not just a scan. Taken on phone and inverted. The little assitant can be seen having a well deserved nap post-photography session haha.

    startrails.thumb.png.5fdc0f7ddf80021cf0299c557fa0d025.png

    • Like 6
  23. 2 hours ago, wookie1965 said:

    I had the Google pixel 7 pro I was in town with the wife stood at the car wife wanted something out the boot phone was on the roof. 

    The wife got a phone call saying our son had been taken to hospital after having a seizure so we jumped in the car and drove off. 

    I had the phone 3 weeks not got it back and car and house insurance won't cover it so I'm paying £900  for nothing. 

    Before I was looking forward to using the excellent camera. 

    Paul 

    That's rough. I hope your son is ok!

  24. 15 minutes ago, Stuart1971 said:

    The issue is the Wi-Fi, I use a little tiny TP link USB Wi-Fi aerial (£13) instead of the internal one, I use to use it on the raspberry PI too, and it was far better than the built in wifi with is pretty dire on the RPI…

    the VNC on the pi is also really slowwwwww, and so is any VNC you use on it, the cursor drags when moving around the screen, that’s not the connection it’s just the RPI

    Remote desktop is far superior and just works, but it means you need windows, I have never looked back after swapping out the RPI for the Mele 3 and windows 11, with NINA, and was a real supporter of Stellarmate and the RPI too…

    5 minutes ago, Elp said:

    Does your controlling PC have an internal (on board) or a PCI card (so WiFi antenna sticking out the back)? If it's the latter, you might be able to try the SMA cable trick, just source one long enough, unscrew the existing antenna and reconnect at the end of the extension cable. If you try this just make sure it's the correct pin type both ends. If you're using a laptop, you can't do this.

    It has no on-board wifi. I have an AC wifi dongle plugged in, but it's a very small one and I had to put a lot of effort to get it to play nice with Ubuntu (as is usually the case with wifi dongles sadly, they are almost all realtek chips!)

     

  25. 4 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

    If you are running indy / indigo, why not have only server on remote machine and other software on your work computer instead of using VNC?

     

    Last night this is what I did! I started indi on the remote machine via VNC in a terminal. Then My desktop indoors ran Kstars and connected to that indi server. This is where the 240s download time for a single sub came from. Even binned 4x4 I was looking at 10-20s download times which is possibly too aggressive a downsample to autofocus with 😕

    It has worked previously with everything in the same spot. Last night was just horrendous. Even signalling the AF motor to move position had a delay of several seconds due to the network lag.

    I'm very perplexed as to what's happened really

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