rigradio

This is the Tamron version -> Andromeda

You will find Tamron vs AT65EDQ images on that page also. 

On 3/8/2018 at 05:33, Stu Wilson said:

 

Stupid question but what software is used for capture etc? And is there some form of live view for focus running some software?

 

SGPro + PlateSolve2, framing, centering, and start imaging less than 5min

19 minutes ago, Redscouse said:

You and me both my friend! 

This makes perfect sense to my confused brain.

Mine is Canon 60D.
Both LPF1 & LPF2 were removed (full spectrum), and replaced with Astrodon AD40 clear glass filter to protect the sensor from dust.
The Astrodon AD40 has the same thickness vs LPF1+LPF2. So, no need to shift the sensor position to regain the AF lens.
Filters:
- Astronomik Ha 12nm for astrophotography
- Astronomik UV/IR clip in for astrophotography & normal photography (CWB required)
- IDAS LPS D1 for astrophotography
- Kolari vision 590nm & Kenko R1 for IR photography

1 hour ago, LightBucket said:

It doesnt blur the image, persay, the reason for a slightly out of focus image after the mod is only with autofocus using a lens, as this will be slightly out due to a piece of glass being removed from the imaging train, but with a telescope not at all an issue...

I'm confused 

4 hours ago, Redscouse said:

Thanks all for your replies. Looks like asking the question saved myself £60, remind me I owe you a pint when we meet at an astro party somewhere!

LPF-1:
Front Filter
Dust removal filter
Piezo element filter
IR/UV block filter
H-alpha pass filter
Larger filter
Pinkish looking filter
Anti-alias filter (1)
 

LPF-2:
Rear Filter
Color limiting filter
White Balance filter
IR/UV block filter
H-alpha block filter
Smaller filter
Bluish looking filter
Anti-alias filter (2)

I don't like the LPF-1 retained.
Even it blurring the image slightly, I just don't like it.
But, that's just me 

Ketut

Hi Pete,

The extra £60 in the 2nd camera is for Baader BCF filter. Your Canon LPF-2 filter will be replaced with this filter.
This filter has UV/IR cut to avoid star bloat if you have 'glass' in your imaging train, i.e. flattener, reducer, lens, or refractor.

But, if you choose the 1st camera (£399) and have glass in your imaging train, you will be okay if you use light pollution filter with UV/IR built in. The best one is IDAS LPS-D1.

So, how bad is the star bloat if you don't use light pollution filter with UV/IR built in? Google this word: "lpf1 sufficient block ir"

Here the video about the star bloat:

HTH
Ketut

16 hours ago, DaveS said:

 

9 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

 

@DaveS & @Olly,

Well, I could be biased since I only have a dslr on my 1st day learn AP. If I have both dslr & mono ccd/cmos, will I find mono will be easier? I don't know

I'm still waiting for my ASI1600-MM, it's still on the way like I said. I may find it easier than dslr when it comes, but it could be bias also since I already been doing AP with my dslr for 2yrs  

At least, the OP is in right direction. He puts small refractor on his AVX, not EdgeHD 8"

Ketut

1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

I can't see why mono would be significantly harder. You just shoot through a red filter, then a green, then a blue, giving each image a name to identify the colour. 

Processing goes like this (in AstroArt for me.)

Stack the reds, the greens and the blues to make three images called Red, Green and Blue.

Go to Images, Align All, set to Translation and Rotation and click once.

Go to Colour, Trichromy, and put the red in the red box, the green in the green and the blue in the blue. Check Auto White Balance and click once. You now have an RGB image. At this point you will be in the same place as you would be with an OSC. Both will have gradients which need processing out. 

I often think that only people who haven't tried mono imaging think that it's difficult! I just don't think it is, though. 

Olly

For a person who really has never ever ever tried AP before, I think dslr will be easier for them to get started before they can shoot through lrgb filter properly.
Imagine a guy who doesn't even know how to ride a bicycle, wants to learn ride a motorbike. I will suggest him learn with Honda Scoopy (automatic) first, because there are basic things he needs to learn: balance, acceleration & break. After he get used to it, then he can tries to ride the superior Kawasaki Ninja with clutch

Ketut    

Jez, you have to listen to me 
Why? Because....both of us:
- Have a baby sitting mount, AVX
- Use +/- 400mm small refractor
- Are a portable newbie imager

Suggestion:" Used cheap canon dslr + BYEOS"

If you are really really a newbie, the are many things you have to learn before you are ready for a mono camera. 
- Balance the mount (toward the telescope & 'little more heavy' east balancing)
- Precise polar alignment 
- Focusing
- Calibration frames
- Dithering
- Star alignment (ASPA)
- Plate solving
- Processing your data
- Bla bla bla...

Practice your polar alignment at the backyard. Try to get a precise PA within 30m
Here are the unguided images with AVX+AT65EDQ+60D -> 180sec & 300sec 

Now, you are ready to learn the auto guiding.
- Ascom, focusing, exposure, saturated star, min motion, aggressive, hysteresis, bla bla bla.....

Now, you are ready. Sell the dslr, purchase a mono camera, LRGB/NB filter, EFW.
Learn the auto focus, sho, hst hargb, lrgb, bla bla bla....

Then, you need more FL for galaxy, need a better mount to handle your bigger telescope, bla bla bla...

Regards,
Ketut

My ASI1600-MM cooled is on the way to Bali...wheeeeeeeeeee 

9 hours ago, mountainmadman said:

Hi Ketut,

thanks for your reply.  It just so happens that the time I was trying this guide scope package out for the first time, it was new moon, so I couldn't use that as a focusing target.  But it's a very valid point and one that I shall remember.

Day time, I don't have anything far enough away in line of site that I can practise on.  Nevertheless, another very valid suggestion.

I have a question though, why would I want the start to be slightly defocussed in the guide scope image anyway?  I have assumed that a sharp focus is best to make it easier for software such as PHP2 to detect the movement of the start in the field of view.  I expect I've misunderstood how that would work.  Again though, if that is the suggested way of focussing your guide scope and camera, then that's what I will do next time.
Thanks once again for your reply,

Tony

Hi Tony,

Quoted from another thread:
"The next tip is that it might help defocus the guide scope slightly. If you are having problems with saturated stars, or you are exceeding the 4x pixel scale rule, this may help. Defocusing will spread the light of the star over more camera pixels which can prevent saturation, and also makes it easier for PHD to detect the centroid of the guide star more accurately. Don't go mad with defocusing or PHD won't be able to lock onto the star and you may start getting ‘Star Lost’ errors if your SN figure drops too much due to de-focusing.

In all cases your guide star still needs to have a brighter central peak and not turn into a hollow doughnut, but a bit of defocus on the guide scope may help where you have SN to spare. You can use the ‘Star Profile’ option on the ‘Tools’ menu to check the profile of your guide star once selected. It should have a peak in the middle like a mountain. If it is flat on top you have a saturated star, and if there is a dip you need to focus more."

Source -> PHD Guidng Basic & Troubleshooting

Ketut

Rough focusing:
- focus in day time on a distant object...or
- focus on the moon
it's much easier  ....you want the star slightly defocused anyway

Ketut