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jtlandreneau

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Everything posted by jtlandreneau

  1. Been gone for a while with a horrible string of weather... lunar eclipse got me back in the game Cannon T3i with the AT72ED http://www.astrobin.com/387402/?nc=user
  2. Messier 1, aka The Crab Nebula Imaging telescope: Orion 10" f/3.9 Astrograph ASI1600mm-Cool Astronomik Ha 7nm: 59x180" (gain: 200.00) Astronomik OIII 12nm: 33x180" (gain: 200.00) http://www.astrobin.com/284610/ HOO palette, this one was strangely different for processing opposed to the bigger nebulae. The Oiii signal was crazy compared to what I'm used to.
  3. this is a beaut! I've never seen a picture with the loop and M78. I've only attempted M78 once, it's amazingly difficult, and not particularly good looking. On par with your other work, this is quite a nice picture
  4. Barnard 33 - The Horsehead Nebula in Orion One with much few subs than i would have liked... couldnt get a night of consistent subs on the color data. first go with collecting mono RGB data. Imaging telescope: Orion 10" f/3.9 Astrograph Imaging camera: ZWO ASI1600MM-Cool Mount: Orion Atlas EQ-G Baader Blue: 37x45" Baader Green: 15x45" Astronomik Ha 7nm: 38x120" Baader Luminance: 51x45" Integration: 2.6 hours http://www.astrobin.com/279397/
  5. Finally found a clear night to catch Oiii data on the Pelican The Pelican Nebula in Cygnus Orion 10" f/3.9 Astrograph ZWO ASI1600MM-Cool Orion Atlas EQ-G Astronomik Ha 7nm: 63x120" bin 1x1 Astronomik OIII 12nm: 88x120" bin 1x1 http://www.astrobin.com/264337/C/
  6. I've been swamped with dew lately on my newt, it's been killing all of my imaging sessions. on my little refractor I just have a constant heat applied via some nichrome wire sandwiched in layers of duct tape, and that works well. For the newt though, I didn't want constant heating hurting the mirror or inducing tube currents. Combine that with not wanting to spend a fortune on buying a heater, I set out to make my own. so, with that in mind, using an arduino, some temperature sensors, and a temperature/humidity sensor, I wrote a little script that kicks a relay whenever the measured temperature is within 3 degrees F of the ambient dewpoint (calculated using the relative humidity and ambient temperature). The relay is fed by a 19V laptop charger that energizes a nichrome heating pad I made. I'm going to post the build sequence soon after im done testing
  7. I've been swamped with dew lately on my newt, it's been killing all of my imaging sessions. on my little refractor I just have a constant heat applied, and that works well. For the newt though, I didn't want constant heating hurting the mirror or inducing tube currents. so, with that in mind, using an arduino, some temperature sensors, and a temperature/humidity sensor, I wrote a little script that kicks a relay whenever the measured temperature is within 3 degrees F of the ambient dewpoint (calculated using the relative humidity and ambient temperature). The relay is fed by a 19V laptop charger that energizes a nichrome heating pad I made. I'm going to post the build sequence soon after im done testing
  8. I have the same telescope, I love it - its great for widefield views. I don't think there is anything wrong with the image itself, other than the color balance being a bit off towards the green spectrum. When you get the opportunity, considering investing in the 0.8X field flattener or the AT2FF - it'll get rid of that distortion you have along the edges
  9. I just took the same picture - you are right, its ic 4617. after a bit of digging I'm told it's red shift points to it being ~490MLY away!
  10. Didn't plan on using this data - I shot the Red channel during a near full moon as some test shots for the Big 10", figured I'd finish the Blues and Greens while I caught star colors for a different picture caught new tiny galaxy though! IC 4617 Baader Blue: 20x120" Baader Green: 20x120" Baader Red: 20x120" http://www.astrobin.com/261926/
  11. beauty! if you don't mind me asking, is that a false diffraction spike on Cyg 52? Wasn't expecting to see one with your Tak
  12. added RGB color from last night for the stars http://www.astrobin.com/261554/D/
  13. Feeling pretty good about this one, comments/critique are encouraged! First go at a dedicated tonemapping method - i might snag some RGB data tonight to color in the stars NGC 281 - The Pacman Orion 250mm f/3.9 imaging newt ASI1600mm-cool Orion Atlas EQ-G Astronomik Ha 7nm: 20x240" Astronomik OIII 12nm: 30x240" http://www.astrobin.com/261554/B/
  14. first dedicated LRGB image, and it fought me the whole way. The only good thing from the frustration of temperature swings ruining entire imaging sessions was it inspired me to make and employ the SGL homebrew autofocuser, which seems to be working brilliantly should probably get another 100 luminance subs, but I have other targets in mind that i'll never get to if I spend the summer on the Iris http://www.astrobin.com/259360/ Baader Blue: 56x120" bin 1x1 Baader Green: 49x120" bin 1x1 Baader Luminance: 40x120" bin 1x1 Baader Red: 30x120" bin 1x1 ASI1600MM-Cool @ -15C Orion 200mm f/4 newt Orion Atlas EQ-G critique always welcome - always looking for ways to improve
  15. Thanks Sara! I must admit, your color palette choice/application is kinda the inspiration for my post processing
  16. Thanks! I think the camera is great. It has really made coming out of the DSLR world and into monochrome pretty easy. I was used to shooting 10-15 minute narrowband shots with the Canon, 5 minutes seems to be the max I need with the 1600. I'm sure its not the best on the market, but for someone just starting with mono imaging, catch beat the performance for the price
  17. Been a while since I ventured over here... made some significant equipment upgrades in the past several months would have liked to get a lot more Oiii data, but the weather had other plans. All comments and critique are welcome! http://www.astrobin.com/259206/ AT72ED w/ 0.8x flattener Astronomik Ha 7nm: 72x300" bin 1x1 Astronomik OIII 12nm: 20x300" bin 1x1 Orion Atlas EQ-G ASI1600MM-Cool
  18. I think this probably takes the title for most time spend processing for me. I struggled keeping the stars in control, and bringing out the reflection nebula took a couple unconventional steps for my normal workflow. let me know what yall think! AT72ED 18x 900 seconds @ iso 800 (h-alpha) 47x 480 seconds @ iso 800 (RGB) Modified Canon t3i Orion Atlas EQ-G http://www.astrobin.com/237162/B/
  19. M42 - The Great Nebula in Orion 20x 15 seconds, 30 seconds, and 300 seconds 44x 480 seconds, all ISO800 Modified Canon T3i AT72ED w/ 0.8x flattener Orion Atlas EQ-G http://www.astrobin.com/236048/ I've been itching to shoot a widefield shot with the new refractor, I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. Thanks for looking!
  20. wow! I just picked up an ASI120mm, didn't think what you got was possible... I might have to give it a go myself!
  21. sorry, I should have included the details in the first post: 37x 240 seconds @ ISO1600 Modified Canon T3i AT72ED w/ 0.8x flattener Orion Atlas EQ-G https://www.astrobin.com/235642/ I stacked the stars, then stacked the comet in DSS, merged the two using layer masks in photoshop. The final revision was a bit more careful with the comet layer
  22. Hello all, this is only my second comet, im not convinced i processed it appropriately - it's quite a struggle merging the comet only stack with the background and having it still look like a real thing if it looks goofy please let me know! i am excited about the conjuction with NGC5466 though!
  23. I like the second version better - to nitpick I have a couple comments I like the colors a lot more, I think the softer blues on the helmet look great compared to the very contrast-y greens. I personally would darken the background a bit, it seems a bit bright The first image I think did a better job pulling out the very faint periphery nebulae It's easy to critique from the peanut gallery though, both renditions are great
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