nicoscy

Here's some more examples EAA style, again, 7 x 10sec Gain 350 no calibration frames from the same evening as the previous ones I posted (so please take into consideration full moon). Pacman, NGC6888, Heart and Soul nebulae.

Yep, a great little lens and FLO has them well priced too. I am tempted now to get the 200mm f4 lens since I repurposed my ASKAR 180 as a finderscope. Deep Sky Dad has EAF autofocus kits available as well!

27 minutes ago, Space Oddities said:

At 135mm, it's anyway very difficult to find a camera with matching pixel size... Does it really matter anyway, at such short focal lengths? 

Not that much I would guess, as you are not pixel peeping at that focal length and image scale...

I forgot to take a screenshot later in the stack, but noise dropped dramatically shortly thereafter. My point being, that while pixel size is a bit "largish" and pixel scale again, "largish", the camera can and does perform well under the constraints set by short focal length instruments, as evidenced by the lovely images in this thread (excluding my own as I do something different).

I only do EAA, but considering a full moon and only 7 x 10 second frames stacked via ASIAir Pro and no calibration frames, the camera delivers. I used the ASKAR FMA180mm lens at f4.5 with the ZWO Duoband filter.

No post-processing, this is straight out of a screenshot at the 70 sec mark of a live stack view.

Math is correct: Pixel size of camera  x 206 / Focal length = 3.76 x 206  / 135 = Resolution of 5.737

Just ran into this topic - nice images people! - and if of any use to anyone, Teleskop Service put this up on their site a couple of weeks back: Wega Tube Rings with Finder Shoe and Dovetail Bar for Samyang 135mm f/2 Lens

Well, you DID ask. All about 60 to seventy second integrations and under a full moon on the same evening, same gain and 10 sec exposures stacked....

I only do EAA, so take with a pinch of salt: NGC7000 7 frames x 10 sec each at 320 gain, ASI533, ZWO duoband filter. No calibration frames.

My contribution to this thread: I upgraded my zero mount with the WO vixen clamp and the Desert Sky Astro extension (at the end of the page), although the SkyWatcher extension should do nicely too. 

Currently expecting some knobs from ADM to complete the look. Also I am thinking of adding a small handle at the bottom of the mount by tapping it. I have a handle from my DM-4 mount that I shortened already and that I don't use - it would be an easy mod.

Sigh, added to the bucket list!

Link to the adapter please?

Geoff,

I need to stop being lazy and try my hand at double stacking. Filter has been sitting in its case for a year because I more or less enjoy single stack and I am lazy. But, if I want to get more detail in my images, I need to break out the DS module asap!

Ah, I don't do closeups - only full disk images. Your scope supports high magnification imaging, mine is a paltry 60mm Lunt with the ASI178MM 

Still, for someone who is not willing to use anything larger than the SW SolarQuest, the 60mm and ASI178 give me some nice disks!

Now, if only I stopped being lazy and try imaging with the DS module on... Something for this weekend maybe!

1 minute ago, Rusted said:

"Dahlia effect."

What's that?

Post processing and use of an artificial flat in Photoshop which takes under a minute to create. Workflow is not mine, it is MalVeauX who shared this:

- Copy base layer and do a Noise / Dust and Scratches: 30 Radius (or thereabouts) and merge layers, then;
- Copy base layer and do a Noise / Median Filter 45 Radius (or thereabouts) and merge layers, then;
- Copy base layer and do 3x Adjustments / Curves / Presets / Darker, then;
- Set layer to Difference and adjust opacity to find a balanced image eliminating most gradients / limb darkening and merge layers

I am still a solar noob, playing around with various processing techniques, but I do think I will direct my focus to inversions. I kind of like them more

True true...

Lol, should actually try to remember to orientate properly, as they are upside down  😅

Temps are reasonable enough to avoid cooking the imager - good to be back to solar imaging after summer break! 

Just added to the stable yesterday, as my new ultraportable EAA Rig. ASKAR FMA 180mm lens / mini refractor :)

The MEF3 box includes the micropinion, a metal thingie to connect the micropinion to the central part of the focuser lets call it, some screws and a unique two pronged thingie. Here we go:

1. Use a standard screw driver and remove one of the focuser knobs.

2. Fit the micropinion assembly to the focuser shaft and tighten the screws (via a small hex key) to lock the focuser shaft to the micropinion assembly.

3. Use the two pronged thingie and remove the small circular button screw thingie on top of the focuser shaft.

4. Take the metal thingie to connect the micropinion to the central part of the focuser, and screw it both to the micropinion (has two tiny screws if I recall) and to the base just underneath the small circular button screw thingie.

5. Screw back the small circular button screw thingie and you are done! 

Alternatively, just see attached  I can confirm that this works with any MEF focuser (fit two of these myself in the past). These images are actually the ones Jeremy linked to - just noticed it...

I am all for saving money - and then spending it on other astronomical purchases!

I'll lay this to rest and hopefully the heat will subside soon and I can get back into regular Ha imaging schedule!

Thanks much!

Hmmm, from what I gather, the pixel size of the 178 is a better match for the smaller focal length of the LS60, correct?
 

And basically, since there is no issue with the FOV for full disks and I don’t have any issue with banding or whatever, I should shut up, go out (once the temps drop - we had 46.2 degrees Celsius 2 days ago) and do more imaging!

Nicolàs,

Thanks for the feedback!  I don't see any artifacts in mine if I am not mistaken.

The 178MM works great for me, but there is of course a part of me that wonders what possible improvement I could have. Ignoring my deficiencies in post processing, I am happy with the 178, but wonder about the 174...

Attached are all single stack images with my 60mm. Same image, different processing. Gives an idea of what the camera does (let's ignore lack of skills in post processing). So, could I get more to work with, with the 174?

Question to those who perhaps tried both for solar imaging: Any real perceived benefit to using the 174 over the 178 (excluding FOV) for solar imaging?

Background:

I am quite happy with my Lunt LS60 and ASI178MM, which gives me a full disk.

I use a SW SolarQuest mount, so I can image at peace with no drift, and therefore the FOV does not come into question as I have sufficient clearance with the ASI178MM

What would (if any) be the benefit of switching to the 174? Inquiring minds that want to be educated want to know!

Just by way of reminder, proper balancing is the middle point between no eyepiece and heaviest eyepiece. You balance the scope there and add some tension and it will stay put. No need to lock the mount. 

So basically, with a half kilo eyepiece, you want the mount to be unbalanced 250 grams either way and a little tension on the mount takes care of this imbalance, yet still allows for smooth gliding.

I have used this mount repeatedly with a Tak FS102NSV and binoviewers to easily track the moon at 240x. 
 

While out in the field I use a bigger mount, when at home in my back yard exploring the moon, I have found that the Avalon T-Pod 90 paired with the M2C and its extension is absolutely fantastic to use. 
 

Usual caveat applies: A mount is only as good as the tripod its fitted on ...