whipdry
-
Posts
364 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Blogs
Posts posted by whipdry
-
-
Worth a few more clicks...
- 1
-
I used Preciseparts in the USA for a single piece part M68 male to M54 male, just tried the website but doesn't seem to be working!
Looked at TS and from what I could see the 3 parts l've listed here might do it, have a look at them and see what you think.
M68a-M68a all male thread 12mm long.
TSM68i-M54a has M68 female to M54 male threads both 5mm long.
M68Konter M68 female thread locking ring 2mm long
Priced in euros total is 128.90 plus shipping.
Peter
- 1
-
As SGPro indicated the camera lost connection you might want to make sure that the power supply to the camera is stable, also think about replacing the USB cable from the camera to the hub.
Picture below is a make do fix on a flaky USB, a couple of blobs of bluetack did the trick on this occasion... works OK on my permanent setup!
-
Three images of the Tulip Nebula/Sh2-101 using exquipment listed below;
Ha image 28x600s with SXVh9 1.4mp cooled CCD, Canon 135mm Lens @ F4 = 9.17 arcsec/pixel (image resized to 75%)
OSC image 15x900s with early QHY8 6mp cooled CCd, TV-102 @ F6.9 = 2.29 arcsec/pixel (image resized to 35%)
Ha image 18x900s with QHY Img2Pro 1.4mp cooled CCD, TV-102 @ F6.9 = 1.89 arcsec/pixel (image at full res.)
All mounted on a Losmandy G11 with SXV guider, controlled and processed using SGPro x3, AstroArt5 and PS2 on a
Window7 laptop.Peter
- 4
-
Have a look at the Auto Focus Opinions window first box top left, untick it.
-
On 14/07/2019 at 09:18, newbie alert said:
Taken the screw lens cap off ??
I'm guilty of this myself... on more than one occasion!
- 1
-
4 hours ago, MarsG76 said:
Now that is a testament to the quality for that Canon lens.
Yes the lens is a good one, not so good was a Tamron SP 90mm F2.5 although it is secondhand so could have been dropped but has no signs of misuse!
Peter
-
4 hours ago, Gina said:
I use vintage SLR lenses with M42x1mm thread for which adapters are available. Asahi/Pentax Takumar, Super Takumar and SMC Takumar. Excellent lenses even used at full aperture.
Thanks Gina,
That's good information.
As my first SLR was a Canon AT1 all my vintage lenses are FD mount, I'll probably test the others sometime in the future.
Peter
-
3 hours ago, Demonperformer said:
The old canon lenses can be quite good. Main problem, I think, is finding a suitable connector for the old FD mount. However you did that, it seems to have worked. Nice result.
Thanks.
Here's what I used getting from the FD mount to T-mount;
Canon Lens Mount Converter B (from ebay if you're lucky) this leaves you with a Leica M39 thread.
M39 to T-mount M42 converter (available from SRB).
T-mount rings that get you to a total of 42mm of backfocus, 10mm worked for me and I was lucky enough to already have this with the added bonus of an internal 1.25" filter thread.
I probably did this the hard way!
Peter
- 1
-
I haven't tried this combination of camera/optics but am reasonably happy with the outcome.
Some of the equipment used is getting a little dated, the FD lens is 40+ years old!Peter
SXV-9h Sony 1.4mp sensor
Canon FD 135mm F2.5 Imaged @ F4
Baader Ha 7nm 1.25"
Losmandy G11
SXV Autoguider
11x900sec. total 2.75 hours
SGPro,PHD2,AstroArt5,CS2- 10
-
Hi Rick
I have the sitech controller version so can't help, perhaps you should contact Lucas Mesu or maybe someone else here could help.
Hope you get it sorted.
Peter
-
2 hours ago, tomato said:
Nice one. Interesting concept of an Astro camera becoming a vintage item. I guess sensitivity, resolution and cooling technology has improved over the years, but in the UK at least I can’t ever envisage one becoming worn out.
Thanks tomato. Last time the QHY8 went back for repair they said it was worn out from use and offered an upgrade to the new model but wanted $580+taxes, went for the $60 repair.
Peter
-
5 hours ago, Craney said:
It is a fine shot. Did you have to take a lot of subs ?
When you say 'vintage'...... just how old ?? I'm wondering if I am expecting too much from my OSC.
I have a second hand QHY8Pro, but have not really got it to perform very effectively (yet). Probably more 'user-error' than anything else, but with the results I have had, it seems very sensitive to any ambient conditions. My subs never look that convincing and I usually have to stretch the histogram to confirm that I have captured the object.
To gain any depth to an imageI think I am really am going to have to commit hours to it rather than 10x3mins that I do now.
Any secrets ??
Sean.
Hi Sean,
Thanks, it's 16x 15min.
I bought the camera secondhand 9 years ago, believe it was 2year old at that time.
The biggest problem I found with the early model (besides light pollution) was moisture inside the CCD chamber, on the newer cylinder shaped version the moisture issue seems to be sorted making it an easier camera to use.
OSC secrets, plenty of long subs under a dark sky.
Peter
- 1
-
-
Hi Tom,
Are you still looking for help?
Peter
-
Hi Rod, I've been following this.
Looking at you setup compaired to the one further up I'd agree that your missing that 13mm spacer between the OAG & filter wheel if you look below at the back focus for the TOA 130 I think you'll agree.
Takahashi TOA-35 0.7x Reducer =71.5mm for TOA 130
Takahashi F3 0.6x Reducer =56.2mm for FSQ 106
As for the OAG remove it from your setup take the guide camera off & look down towards the prism if you can't see anything clearly through it get it replaced.
Peter
-
Thanks for the update.
On 08/12/2016 at 22:12, andrewluck said:Takahashi Japan attended the recent Paris astronomy show and indicated that they are aware of the filed curvature issue and have a new flattener on the drawing board that will correct this issue.
Did they indicate if this would be an exernal (add on) flattener or a change from the existing rear elements of the Baby Q ?
Peter
Help please: MESU and PHD2 Backlash does not clear all of a sudden
in Imaging - Discussion
Posted
For anyone considering purchasing a Mesu l think the mk2 has a lever system that releases the drive in both RA & Dec.
Peter