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englishmike

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About englishmike

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  1. I have had a number of Tal 1 Tal 120 Tal 150 Tal M Tal 65 .... I have found the TAL1(s) ( I have had about 10 of these) to be suberb , very easy to work with, the later ones with the conventional focus control and suberb BArlow and lens being the one to get. BUT early ones with sprung eyepiece clips didnt focus with conventional eyepieces. Shaving 15mm of the length of the tube ( primary end) solved all that. Tal1 optics always suberb. Tal 150 was fantastic , Tal M punched much above its weight (see attach if Clavius), Biggest prob with the Tal1 and the Tal m is the flimsy clamp hinges which break ! Easy to fix though.. Then theres the 120.! I bought this really for the motor and the handy tube clamp design. BUT I also found the images a little out of focus AND colimation is impossible as the primary is factory set glued in its carrier and cant be adjusted without a boj! Another worry is the spider holding the secondary does not sit in the middle of the tube , making the secondary 5mm of centre ! What a dissapointment. I am now going to see what I can do about this. I also think the image might be better if the intergral corrector and barlow are removed from the focuser. (why include an external barlow with the scope when it already has an integral one.) More later .... TalM BArlow Webcam 640 480 2 Clavius .bmp
  2. How about some practical points, heres something I found that worked for me : "OK so if you are new and, completely confused about what telescope is best, Newtonian or reflector, I don't blame you. I was just the same so I decided to buy a few telescopes trying them and sell them on until I got to the one that suited me most. I found refractors were great but I didn't like having the tripod up at nearly full extension to get a comfortable viewing angle. Yes you can use a diagonal which helps , making the image the right way up but left and right is still swapped and now it will not match some of the star charts which are all up side down and left to right ! The tripod being high gives more shake and needs a longer time to settle. The Newtonians are great, they don't suffer as much shake, you can sit comfortable, easily adjust the eyepiece to suit your height and that works well for me. The newts do need time to cool down to minimise that “boiling” image but I leave mine out in the shed which helps a lot. Always buy a branded scope like TAL MEADE HELIOS , sky watcher stay away from the cheap china made ones they really are not that good. Ask me how I know ! But actually you wouldn't know unless you compared them against a known good scope. A telescope with a parabolic mirror , usually indicated by a P in the model number, should give better sharper images as its mirror focus point is a single point (called diffraction limited) where a Newtonian the focal point is more spread. Having said that a Newtonian with an F8 mirror is on the verge of it being as sharp as a parabolic where say f4/f6 isn’t and could be a bit fuzzy. That’s why I suppose the Chinese unbranded short tube telescopes didn’t seem as sharp. Also a lot of talk about better contrast in refractors, after trying out lots of different types I really never noticed it that much."
  3. Hi This is my first post. I have 6 or 7 (lost count) Tal telescopes so am a bit of a sad nut on these scopes but they are so good. I decided to sell some of the TAL1 s I have , having just got a 150P and Tal2. However one of the TAL1 is painted more of a light greay than white AND the inside of the tube is heavily grooved so theres hardly any light bouncing off the sides unlike the nornal TAL 1s. The image is superb I got up to 240X ( 10mm and 3X stock Barlow) and it was still pretty sharp . SO question is is this an early TAL 1 or a special made to order ? MAybe I should keep it !!
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