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Everything posted by daverave83

  1. after some thought i think it's best idea to save for an APO
  2. Hey Guys, I currently own a SLT 102, they get the full affect of CA (Chromat Abbreviation). Just googling around if i was to put the Celestron Astromaster 130 on the GOTO would this work for AP? I was thinking of having the SLT102 as the guider scope with the 130 for AP, but not sure if the goto mount would handle the weight. Thanks Dave
  3. Good Decision, I myself started with a 200p, but it wasn't getting used so much. I was more into the AP side than visual, now i am looking at the EQ5PRO With an 80ED APO. at the moment currently i am working with the AZ Goto 102 SLT Achromat, which i think is a good start to AP, not only do i get to learn how to do AP but use Photoshop. If you can get passed the CA then you can get good results, i am also trying out new filters to get better images ect...so all in all there is no rush to get the best equipment straight away, stars are not going to instantly combust and dissapear.
  4. I agree with others definately think before buying. There is a difference between Refractor and Reflector, i myself own a refractor scope - Achromat and they are not so great for AP due to CA (Chromate Abbreviation), if it's just for AP you can get an APO (Apochromatic) due to it's glass it doesn't have the affect of (CA). http://www.firstlightoptics.com/pro-series/skywatcher-evostar-80ed-ds-pro-ota.html This is something i am currently looking at for my AP setup.
  5. As dave said, There also seems abit of vignetting are you using the barlow extension by any chance? However i try to take the same amount of darks as i have flats. ISO 3200 is pretty high but in levels you can use the eye dropper tool to get the darkness spread across the image without losing to much lights.
  6. Nice image, Indeed the image is pretty grainy this is due to to much curves on the histogram. Try and use levels as much as possible, including the RGB channels you can normally tell you cant increase curves anymore as the peak turns more into a long slope to the dark point. The blue channel needs to be adjusted just slightly, best way to sort this is to do an S shape on the curves from darks > light
  7. i could give the G/B channels ago tonight, i think i could of taken more shots in HA maybe slightly longer exposures, and also used the OII filter Focusing was the main pain as i was using live view on the canon but i am looking at getting Bahintov Mask, my stars look alittle bloated due to CA due to the refractor but i still have alot to turn in Photoshop.
  8. hi there, I have used the HA filter at the weekend, and it seemed to work pretty well if i have done it correctly. I used NGC2244 as my previous target 30 lights of 1600 15 lights of 800 15 lights of HA for each (800/1600/3200 all at 1 min exposures.) i set 3 folders ISO800 ISO1600 ISO3200 With Darks, Lights, Flats for each set. I set the HA as lights and DSS, then used Photoshop CS5 Curves and Levels. This was the final image.
  9. Hey there. I'm using the Canon 1100D Unmodded. i'll give it a try when weather conditions are better and use photo shop curves and levels. Normally I process over 2 hours using ISO 800/1600.
  10. Awsome image. How hard is this object to capture? I am looking to do 1min Lights, HA & OII. also with this in the vincinity of Orion the SLT 102 Goto doesn't get to much affect of field rotation.
  11. The great IC405 so how hard is this object to capture on 1 min Lights? i can push it upto 1min 10secs or 1min 15secs but field rotation comes apparent. i just done a good capture of NGC 2244 using the HA Filter, would the OIII Filter help with the Blue Nebulosity? I can see me spending £800 + on an GEM or EQ5 Pro by the end of this year.
  12. i could never leave my scope unattended Maybe i need to build a fortified obs
  13. Hey Guys NGC 2244 30 x 70 sec ISO1600 15 x 60 secs ISO 800 15 x 60 secs HA Darks / Flats Processed through DSS SLT 102 GOTO Unmodded Canon 1100D
  14. Hey Guys After my great success getting 1 min exposures and pushing the Goto 1.10mins, in the right conditions i'm looking to push the boundary further and setting myself a new target. The Cone/Christmas Tree Nebula. I need abit of guidance with the subs, particulary when they post RGB subs!? Are these subs taken using a different RGB filters or is it DSS filtering between the colours? I know most of you are thinking "you sir are crazy" maybe but i have noticed when you take certain amount of lights that some images trail after 1min and some don't. It seems that it trails when the GOTO is slewing with the object then once it's in the FOV trailing has diminished, out of the 10 images 2 of them have trailing at 1.10. Even at 1.20 field rotation is small but you do get pear shaped stars however DSS can sort this. I am looking to do. ISO 3200 x 40 - 40 Secs - any longer noise comes apparent. ISO 1600 x 20 - 1min 20 secs ISO 800 x 20 - 1min 30 Sec! So how are the RGB Channels done to bring out the nebulosity? Ta David
  15. Thanks Guys. I am going to try 1.30 - 1.45 min exposures at some point. i did try 2 mins at ISO 800 but trailing was visable. Eventually at some point going to a EQ5 Pro once i am more familiar with the dynamics of AP.
  16. CA's are definitely there Focusing is all done through live view EOS, normally i start with an easy target betelguese then focus until the object is pinpoint. I feel there could be alittle more focus, but overall i like the CA feel as they look like a ball of Sun's. Actually i am impressed with the Horse Head as it's Known that GOTO's aren't great for AP, but 1min exposures possibly more im chuffed. Once you know how to do Flats and Darks, noise is pretty much low. I am looking at a DIY Wedge so i can get 5min exposures.
  17. Thats so much better. You can get upto 20 - 30 secs exposures before field rotation becomes a problem, give it a go and see what results you get. Use curves and levels as much as you can particulary the RGB Channels, also use Hue and Saturation but not too much. there is another tool which can be useful - Colour Match - you can adjust the each colour filter i.e. Magenta so that the colour balance is better. Then there are layer masks > Reveal All/Hide All if you want to increase the nebulosity.
  18. Good image, Nice detail to the Galaxies overall very good for 30 sec exposures. P.S. i hate doing the dark frames at the end of the session they take so long :S
  19. Not bad image for your first try. It may be worth adjusting the levels, as there is quite alot of blue within the image. The best way to do it. Make a copy of the image in photoshop. Goto > Image > Adjustments> Levels. On the RGB filter change to Red Make sure the Black arrow meets the first curve of the peak and the middle greyshade arrow meets the last curve on the peak, do the same for green and blues. Make a copy of the image then goto >image>adjustment>curves move the middle line slightly to the left. Go back to levels and adjust the RGB filter again black arrow meets the first curve on the peak then the greyish middle arrow meets the last curve on the peak . Save and repost
  20. Darks, Flats, Where also used per ISO
  21. Hey Guys This is the horse head nebula. 40 x 1 mins subs 10 x 1.10min subs ISO 3200 ISO 1600 ISO 800 SLT 102 GOTO UNMODDED CANNON 1100D
  22. Hey Guys, With the luck of good weather tonight i want to Image the Horse Head Nebula. I am using the goto scope so i am limited to 1min exposures before field rotation sets in. I done several test a couple nights before and could get max 1.10mins on M42 before trailing started. this would be taken over 2 hours. ISO 3200 60 x 1min subs Flat Frames - 30 ISO 1600 15 x 1 min subs ISO 800 15 x min subs Darks & Bias Session End I could take 2 min exposures but field rotation would be an issue, however would DSS compensate for this?? I looking to do a wedge for future AP, particulary in May when M16 comes into view.
  23. i use a SLT 102 Goto and can see pretty much anything It terms of F ratio i believe mine is 5'. Things like Orion Nebula should be easy to see along with M31, M45 and Star Clusters. Anything like Crab Nebula will be slightly difficult as you would need a) inverted vision i.e. in darkness for a period of time & Low Light pollution. Sending a replacement I believe wont change the viewing unfortunately as learning the sky comes with experience and many frustrating hours. I used to own a Dobsonian 200P and went onto the GOTO Scopes to dip my feet in AP. Also is daylight saving on or off? it may sound stupid but when i got my Goto i forgot to change this to No. Double Check the Lang/Long as this would cause misalign. You noted that you align with jupiter outside your window!? this would definitely cause problems with viewing as the thermals from the house would cause a wavery affect when viewing.
  24. I know this thread is quite old. But don't be put off by the SLT 102 as they are good scopes. Yes there are limitations however it's about testing the boundary of what you can get. This image was taken with 30 sec subs, on a Skywatcher SLT 102 Goto, and after preliminary testing i can get up-to 1.10 min exposures without trailing. on a Unmodded Canon 1100D. Polar Alignment is a Key with GOTO and counter weight, i have a tube ring and dove tail bar so the weight is closer to me, this puts more strain on the gears of the Altz Mount so field rotation is less. I am going to see if i can push it to 2 min exposures. Goto Mount are not the greatest but good if you want to dip your feet into it without spending £500 + on AP.
  25. Weather conditions were poor tonight, alot of high level cloud from the outflow from the rain in the channel. Good Picture though. Waiting for a perfect night tomorrow or thursday looks better.
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