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YKSE

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Posts posted by YKSE

  1. They have very good range of binoculars (even though many not in stock), and very atractive prices. Andrews' review mentioned their good combined postage cost. So when I saw the two pais of binos I'm interested in, I took the plunge. £12 postage to Sweden for the two, clearly among the best UK dealers for EU shipping.

    Order placed on Friday, it arrived in Stockholm already on Monday! While the Swedish postal service took three days to send it to me.

    It was well packed with foams inside around the bino pairs,  a tag of "fragile" on the package to reminder postmen for gentle handle:smiley:

    A very easy and smooth purchasing experience with microglobe, I can warmly recommend it.

  2. Lovely looking scope, Stu. Is there any strengthening behind the focuser mounting plate?

    To my engineering fixated eyes, the focuser plate will be most strained when viewing near zenith, a plate without strengthening looks a bit weak when using heavy EPs. Viewing targets away from zenith shouldn't have any issue.

  3. 40 minutes ago, michael.h.f.wilkinson said:

     

    I have used a 31T5 at an exit pupil of 7.56mm which worked, even if you might lose some light. When using the LVW 42mm in the same F/4.1 scope you get an exit pupil of 10.25mm. Assuming your pupils dilate to 7mm you are cutting down the light cone to F/6, so you would not really be testing the EP at F/4.2.

    Thanks Michael, that's very good to know. so there're actually more, even though small, advantages in using EPs with large exit pupils:happy3:

  4.  I read these forums ALLOT, including cloudynights and heaps of reviews whenever I can and you guys helped lots in deciding what to get. I think that I know now a fair deal now about pros and cons of different designs for both optics and mounts but in terms of real observing experience,

    That's an excellent way to learn all these thing IMHO, you get to know all the different oppinions from variaty of time point of different users, much better than post a simple question like "what's best eyepiece", where you'll only get some answers available at the time, and it saves you time and money from trying out different eyepieces, unless it's part of your interest or work.

    • Like 2
  5. YKSE, how do you like the NIKON's? I saw those on the website when I bought mine although you got the superwides. I notice they are a little cheaper ;-)

    I still have not had chance to give mine a decent workout due to holidays and appalling weather. Most frustrating

    Steve,

    I got these Nikons when Swedish kronor was 10% stronger to Yen then :smiley:

    They're quite good to my eye, Vega is as pin sharp in the edge as in the center in 120ED, very good stray light control (Moon is invible outside field of view), scatter light on Jupiter is in level with 18mm BCO. very little latteral colour seen in daytime, clearly less than MaxVisions; very little rectilinear distortion, the slight barrel distorion is only seen in 17.5mm pointing at telepost in daytime. Angular Magnification distortion in these EP does make splitting doubles in the edge more difficult, this is none issue for me though since I prefer to observ on-axis where aberrations are minimum. The extra field is good for star-hopping, the distortion type (AMD) suit me better to match star patterns with star chart.

    17.5mm SW has 26mm ER! it's quite smaller without the eye cup:

    post-30887-0-61066300-1447520506_thumb.j

    Using 17.5SW without eye cup, you get the same floating effect which 28mmRKE is famed for, but its much easier to hold the view in Nikon.

    Edit: forgot to mention it, they're par-focal, and par-focal with Pentax XW too :smiley:

    • Like 1
  6. Ian,

    I'm thinking of binoviewing with heschel wedge, therefore shortening the light path is important.

    I've checked with Baader support about the BDS, light path is 12+58+7+4.9=82mm with the short eyepiece holder.

    The stock focuser measures about 122mm long without taking it loose, so the light path seems to be something up to 30mm shorter with BDS. I'll be very interested in your measurement. :smiley:

  7. Nice to know that using camera for measurement, do you know how the quantify the measurement? any link to this measurement?

    As to RD and AMD, my understanding is slightly different than yours, with AMD, the straight lines will keep straight across the field of view, but the spaceing between the lines gets narrower and narrower closer to the edge. While with RD, there're two types of RD, pincushion distortion where straight lines close to edge look like )(, and barrel distortion, where straight lines close to edge look like ().

    RD and AMD are part of Geometrical Distortions (GD), Chris Lord has more detailed discussions about distortions here, what I can understand is that GD depends only on FOV, the wider FOV, the more GD, you can trade between RD and AMD, but you can't reduce the total Geometrical Distortions.

    The fact that most astronomical eyepieces choose to correct AMD, is because AMD will cause close double stars smear together close to the edge, not because of astigmatism, also there are no straight lines in night sky to show this distortion, while in daytime use, AMD is more preferred because we have too many familiar staight lines in the view. You can increase GD (AMD or RD) to correct astigmatism (some Nikon eyepieces has more AMD than calculated total GD for correcting astigmatism), or you can increase field curvature to correct astigmatism (like some Pentax eyepiece).

    • Like 1
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