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About milan

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    Star Forming
  1. Thnks Chris, some great information there. In that case it sounds like i need to empty out the information as it will be a setup every night job.
  2. Okay Thanks. Sounds sensible Something else that i have thought it, when i polar aligned using the RA setting circle i put in 8pm, and did not take off any hour to make it GMT, could this also have caused a problem? Would it be wise to empty out the sync i did last night and redo the points next time, making more of a triangle? Also, does anyone know if you can change the onscreen star names in CdC to the common ones instead of having to use the find function?
  3. Okay packed up for the night but when i went back to the PC everything was guiding fine. I brought up the EQMOD interface in CdC and the words 'LIMIT' were flashing in the RA and DEC boxes. Scope was pointing effectively straight up at M31, i saw somewhere to turn them off bu couldnt find where just now. Should i leave the settings as they are for safety?
  4. Only did that on the first star as ive read on here on many a post that this is the preferred option. What about accuracy around the rest of the sky following effectively a 3 star sync?
  5. Well finally got a clear night having bought all the new equipment weeks and weeks ago so finally giving everything a go together. Im using CdC with EQMOD and i polar aligned as normal and the slewed to vega, it was nowhere to be seen so i loosened off the clutches and manually centered and then synced in CdC (i checked and it did EQMOD as well). I then went off to Altair and adjusted with the gamepad by a small amount and the same with Alkaid and synced both in CdC Since Jupiter was looking nice tonight i then slewed expecting it to be in the centre of the eyepiece, it was way off so i moved with the gamepad (by guesswork as i dont have a finderscope) and then synced that as well (mistake to sync on a planet?) Having viewed Jupiter for a while i decided to try the autoguiding out and take a few shots of M31, again picked M31 in CdC and slewed. Again nowhere near the centre, lots of manual adjustment required. I read that slweing is most accurate within the chosen alignment points but i thought that it would have been more accurate than this? Have i missed something? Thanks.
  6. you also need to make sure that the powerline adaptors (homeplugs) are plugged directly into the wall and not into an extension lead as this can cause problems as well.
  7. Psychobilly has some good info on the Hutech from memory.
  8. I'd agree, its on my list for when i win the lottery.
  9. So your hub is powered from the Maplin A92JH adaptor which is plugged into your 20Ah batteries? I was under the impression that hubs needed 240v? having said that the plug is large on mine so i presume it includes a step down transformer? (Electrics arent my thing!)
  10. So a powered hub (from power tank? if so how (inverter?) as the one i have is 240v) and then a single repeater back to the PC sounds more feasible.
  11. Just trying to streamline my AP setup while the weather is grim and one thing is the amount of cables etc. Ideally i would like to be able to keep the netbook inside and work from there, in order to do that i need a long active USB cable and noticed the following on Maplin USB 2.0 12m 4 Port Hub and Repeater Free Delivery : USB Cabling : Maplin Just wondered if anyone had direct experience of one as ive done a search and read some of these things can be a bit tempermental. I presume that it draws the power it needs from the netbook, so it would be sensible to keep it plugged into the wall. Would it be worth seperating some of the compoents out to reduce dependancy down one cable etc? Will be running: QHY5 EQ6 Mount with EQDIR Canon 5D Rumblepad GPS dongle For anyone interested the best price ive seen for the above is at 'Cablestar'
  12. Ohh, this sounds good! Surrey - KT21
  13. The 5D MkI doenst do Live view (the MkII does) ive not tried tethered shooting as such but my understanding is that the 5D can only be controlled from a PC using the N3 connection, which means i need my timer modded.
  14. So over the past few weeks i have been putting together the final bits for my AP setup. I now have a QHY5 and EQMOD installed and operational (dry run only, too many clouds!) with photos taken using my unmodded Canon 5D. I have the remote timer using the N3 connection and my understanding is that this needs to be modded (astronomiser do it) in order to allow me to connect it to the PC. Once i have done this should i be able to control everthing from the PC and view images from my 5D to adjust focus/capture images etc? Thanks.
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