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GraemeC

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Posts posted by GraemeC

  1. The conduct sits on top of treated 4x2 timber beams.  I have a kiddies treehouse next to the observatory, and the beams also form part of that.  So they’re dual purpose and it isn’t obvious at all that the roof can slide over.  The conduit is fixed down by stainless screws every 2 or 3 ft. The screw holes are slightly chamfered so the screw heads are flush.

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  2. I used 20mm electrical conduit as the rails, with nylon rollers that match the 20mm diameter profile of the rail.  The rails stand up clear of any leaves and the nylon rollers work a treat.  I made simple inserts for the galvanised conduit to join lengths together, and standard conduit connectors would leave a big bump on the outside surface.

    Graeme

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  3. I've always thought that Altair Astro have an attractive product range.  

     https://www.altairastro.com/refractor-telescopes-46-c.asp

    I would repeat Cosmic Geoffs point of view, which is that the science of optics is well understood and is not (thankfully) subject to planned obsolescence or frequent upgrades.  Of course, what does happen is that the electronic gadgets are improved with time.  I've recently bought a polemaster which I'm very pleased with - that certainly wasn't available when I started this hobby.  A lot of people find a good approach is to buy a decent OTA and then upgrade the accessories as and when you fancy.

    Im not sure who would take it upon themselves to maintain a master list of manufacturers -but if you wanted to keep updated about new astro technology then the Astro magazines are probably quite a good source.

  4. image.jpeg.a83c4a5054c2e9fc122c33522746a57a.jpegThe back focus isn't critical for eyepiece projection, as the focus point also depends on the eyepiece position in the focusser. If you Imagine the camera sensor as a fixed piece of card, you can focus an image onto that card by racking the eyepiece in and out. Then obviously the distance from the eyepiece to the card can be anything you like.  If I project an image of the sun onto a piece of card I can have the card close to the scope, or on the other side of the room.  I just adjust the focusser to suit.  In my experience with eyepiece projection with a dslr, I just fix on a convenient distance fixed by the adapter and then rack the eyepiece in and out until focus is seen.

    I have had black screens in live view before and it was due to a combination of live view settings and exposure time.  Try focussing on a distant tree top in daylight first...

  5. The moon is only blocking out the sun for those people within a relatively narrow strip taken by the umbral shadow.  For this eclipse the width of totality was around 120 miles.  Further away from this the sun is shining and it is this light you can see.  Looking at low angles through the atmosphere you are easily looking through into areas where the sun is still shining.  You do get a good 360 degree twilight effect which marks the transition from fully illuminated atmosphere to the atmosphere that is under the shadow.  I saw it in Wyoming in 2017 - spectacular.

  6. Sorry to confuse... the only insulated floor I have experience of is in the house, behind a big window.  Its warmed a treat by the sun which I'm pleased about.  As for the observatory.... I've just left that uninsulated.  I'm not trying to keep a warm room section as I retreat to the house if / when I get too cold...

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  7. I bought an LVI2 autoguider and it seemed to work OK with my SSk2, although only having a limited display on the LVI handset I couldn't really judge how good it was.  I could see some backlash in Dec and the device appeared to be making corrections.  After some fiddling around I decided to concentrate on good polar alignment and unguided wide field imaging!  Three to five minute shots, unguided, were fine.

    One thing I have done is to permanently secure the SS2K cable to the handset, I never make or break the connection and always carry the handset + cable as a unit.  To avoid any flex and potential breaks the cable is secured with a cable tie to the side of the handset (see pic).  There is already a small hole in the side that is big enough for a cable tie.  I've also stuck on a piece of Velcro further down the cable.

     

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