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GraemeC

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About GraemeC

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  1. This question has been asked before, have a look at this link...
  2. Oops! Just noticed you were discussing dobsonians... Never mind
  3. I've always thought that Altair Astro have an attractive product range. https://www.altairastro.com/refractor-telescopes-46-c.asp I would repeat Cosmic Geoffs point of view, which is that the science of optics is well understood and is not (thankfully) subject to planned obsolescence or frequent upgrades. Of course, what does happen is that the electronic gadgets are improved with time. I've recently bought a polemaster which I'm very pleased with - that certainly wasn't available when I started this hobby. A lot of people find a good approach is to buy a decent OTA and then upgrade the accessories as and when you fancy. Im not sure who would take it upon themselves to maintain a master list of manufacturers -but if you wanted to keep updated about new astro technology then the Astro magazines are probably quite a good source.
  4. One scope won't meet all of your observing needs, as there are wide field targets every bit as enjoyable as the narrow field, small targets. I use a small scope or even binoculars for wide field - you will find a longer focal length will be ideal when you are craving more magnification! if you choose your target to suit your scope I think you'll be very happy.
  5. The back focus isn't critical for eyepiece projection, as the focus point also depends on the eyepiece position in the focusser. If you Imagine the camera sensor as a fixed piece of card, you can focus an image onto that card by racking the eyepiece in and out. Then obviously the distance from the eyepiece to the card can be anything you like. If I project an image of the sun onto a piece of card I can have the card close to the scope, or on the other side of the room. I just adjust the focusser to suit. In my experience with eyepiece projection with a dslr, I just fix on a convenient distance fixed by the adapter and then rack the eyepiece in and out until focus is seen. I have had black screens in live view before and it was due to a combination of live view settings and exposure time. Try focussing on a distant tree top in daylight first...
  6. Great picture! At that image scale, would you see the movement as you watch, the moon moving across to cover Venus?
  7. Great picture! Interesting how the trails appear to have a bright end and a faint end.you seem to have done a lot of processing and taken multiple shots.... Do you know how it would compare with 1 X 20minute exposure?
  8. I've just been looking at the EQ8-R. It looks interesting but I'm happy with the cem60 I bought last year. Now if I was building two observatories....
  9. You certainly have, well done! If you can repeat the same shot over a series of nights you will see the orbital movement as well. Astronomy can be quite dynamic sometimes!
  10. I would want to see a proven track record, maybe a blow by blow comparison with the competition.
  11. This is a really good build, well done!
  12. The most colour I have seen is the green hues of M42, with my 14" dob. After reading this thread I have a few more targets now, such as Albireo. Clear skies!
  13. The Heathrow flight path isn't far from me.
  14. The moon is only blocking out the sun for those people within a relatively narrow strip taken by the umbral shadow. For this eclipse the width of totality was around 120 miles. Further away from this the sun is shining and it is this light you can see. Looking at low angles through the atmosphere you are easily looking through into areas where the sun is still shining. You do get a good 360 degree twilight effect which marks the transition from fully illuminated atmosphere to the atmosphere that is under the shadow. I saw it in Wyoming in 2017 - spectacular.
  15. Movement in a short exposure image using a wide angle lens in unlikely to have anything to do with tracking. I'd suggest the mount or tripod or clamping was unstable. For example, the one and only time I used a ball socket clamp for a dslr seemed like a good idea until I realised the dslr was slowly drooping down. Now I use ring clamps so the camera body and the camera lens are supported independently. graeme
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