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About GraemeC

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  1. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    After a day's tidying up, I will now assemble the treehouse frame (also to be the roof running rails). The shed stuff has been returned to building #2 and the observatory is ready to be completed as an observatory. In this pic I've fitted the internal rails (left and right). I'm making design changes to the corner timbers on the right as this running rail is now flush to the side wall. I was going to have it offset a little but this was influenced by the shed#2 door position. I think its better flush (as it is now on this pic). Also in this pic is the first 2 rollers (left, top) and the electrical consumer unit. on the right hand side the roof is still just sitting on top of the wall. The rollers are 20mm U-shaped rollers that run along 20mm electrical conduit. The conduit is fixed down by countersunk screws (countersunk so there is no 'bump'.) and outside...
  2. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Finally, the window and the roof 8x4 plywood sheets are put in place, followed by roofing liner, then shingles. Altogether quite heavy but long lasting. This is the same construction as the building number 1 (on the left) which is the observatory proper. The dimensions of building number 2 are a little different as its a bit wider and higher. The observatory has slightly lower walls, for visibility reasons. Next step: to put on the door (leaning up against some junk on the left) and to tidy up the middle area. This is where the observatory running rails will go, to be cunningly disguised as an open tree house. I had to compromise the design a bit here, I wanted the observatory roof to run over this middle area but I also had to think about the shed #2 access door position. I wanted to keep the door in the end to keep the roof tidy, a reasonable door height, and visibility from the house. I wondered about making the shed so wide that the door would be completely outside the running rail footprint but decided against that as it would reduce the width of the walkway & would also obscure most of the garage from the house. So the compromise: to have the door as shown below, with a section of running rail that can be removed for normal daytime use (ie to get into the shed without banging your head). In practice I think it will stay removed unless I want to open the observatory roof.
  3. GraemeC


    Wow, I've never seen a monster furry snail before....
  4. GraemeC

    Anyone Else Rolling the Dice.

    I'll set the alarm for 0400 and will wait to see what will happen.i only need a small gap in the cloud... I'm working from home tomorrow so a later start is fine.
  5. GraemeC

    Micro-guttering for observatory roof?

    Where are the drips coming from? Ideally any water falling onto the roof would run off and fall clear. Perhaps you need a drip strip between your roofing material and the roof frame. If your roof is retaining pockets of rainwater after a shower then that might cause further problems later on.
  6. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Finally, roof trusses. The 8x4 panels used for building wall panels will be used as the roof panelling (under a layer of roofing felt and shingles). A single layer of bricks was set in place so that the wooden walls are not sitting directly on the concrete slab. Then its just a matter of lifting the panels into place and securing.
  7. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Hi Kev, well spotted, the work took place in stages over the summer up to now. The lush undergrowth isn't because of any micro climate here! I'm just getting around to sorting out the pictures and finalising the build at the moment. I have time to sit down in front of the PC and catch up with all the astro-chat. I seemed to have spent all the time over the summer in the garden hammering bloomin' nails...
  8. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Next step: assemble the tongue and groove, tighten up and nail in place. There is a liner in place just under the T&G. The large opening in this section is for a large wired window (which just happened to be an old internal door in my house before the recent building work was completed). I try to repurpose things if I can
  9. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    It didn't take long, the slowest part was emptying it of the old boxes, a kitchen unit and rusty paint tins that hadn't seen light of day in decades. Its good that this sort of exercise makes you do a spring clean from time to time! You might notice that the demolition isn't so much a clearance, more of a push to one side, out of the way... The next step was to finish making the remaining walls and roof trusses for building number 2. I'm using sheets of 8x4 plywood to give me a base for the jig and timbers are located square and aligned before nailing. I used sheradised annular ring nails for the framing as these are very grippy (almost impossible to pull out) and will not rust.
  10. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    After relocating loads of junk - some of which went straight to the tip - the area is cleared. It gives me working space to start assembling more wall frames and panels. The growth in the foreground is a rosemary bush, great for saute potatoes but doesn't it just grow quickly...
  11. Hi Mike the overall assembly could be made a lot more rigid if you add a brace between the two sets of scopes. Just something solid (like another dovetail?) that would link across the top of your scopes - the bottom of your scopes would already be connected by the main dovetail. Adding a brace wont make it absolutely solid but it will massively reduce droop and inter-scope movement. I'm always drilling & tapping 6mm holes in aluminium struts for allen screws and finger bolts for use with my equipment.
  12. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    An artist friend of mine really liked it, he said it was a good study in decrepitude, rot and reversion to nature hehehe I think it would have fallen down a long time ago if it wasn't for a steel cupboard inside, currently holding the roof up! The replacement will be smaller, I don't need to be as large. The shed #1 (observatory) is about 2.1m x 3m and shed number 2 will be 2.5m x 3m. 3m gap between the two (that's the space for the sliding roof).
  13. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Next step, to demolish the old shed and build structure number 2.
  14. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Hi James, yes at the moment the roof frame is just sitting on top of the walls with a few (temporary) screws in place to stop it blowing away in the wind... That would have to be some wind...
  15. GraemeC

    Graeme's ROR - a build with added features

    Roof completed. The roofing shingles are rather heavyweight but they have a very good life expectancy. There is a membrane layer underneath. After this I turn my attention to the second part of the build, which is to demolish the old shed, replace it and then to connect the two new buildings

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