Nikodemuzz

Thanks, I get it now. I have the same bracket installed (or similar at least). I don't think the EAF would work at all without it, I think it would just turn itself around the shaft. 😄

Thanks Richard! What do you mean by the bracket? I took down the scope yesterday and today I tested it again indoors (my shed is around +4C). In a level position (on a table) and warmer temperature, there was no problem. No rumbles, smooth operation. I only got the beeps when I reached the physical limits of the focuser. With my logic this is pointing towards the focuser getting too stiff in the cold, causing the EAF to fail. I'm assuming the motor is protected by shutting it off if the current spikes (jamming or physical limits) or if it fluctuates suddenly (slipping or janky spots in a focuser). I'm still not sure if the problem is because the focuser becomes stiff and uneven in the cold, or because the EAF slips on the shaft. Could be both, one caused by the other. More investigating needed.

Actually, re-thinking my findings from yesterday, I can't rule out slippage yet. As I racked the focuser back and forth when I was investigating last night, I noticed that the numeral focuser position where focus was achieved was changing. For example, when I started the scope was roughly in focus at focuser position 19000. When I stopped, the focus was achieved at around 25000. To me this is as clear an indication of slippage as it gets, somewhere in the system. The grub screws gripping the shaft being the obvious candidate. The screws are tiny and there is a lot of weight on the focuser. I wasn't too impressed with that engineering solution when I installed it. I'll have to think if I can improve it in any way. On the other hand, a softly turning focuser doesn't need a huge amount of torque to move. The soft rumbles from the focuser indicated that it is not working entirely smoothly. I'll have to inspect it as well.

Thanks for the suggestion, this occurred to me as well. I tightened the screws but it didn't help. I suspect I have to adjust the focuser on the scope. It may be gripping too tight, or the lubricant might not be suitable for these temperatures.

More findings. Even the manual focus (with motor focus) does not perform normally. If I "rack" the focus with a fast speed, it on occasion moves nicely for a while, but then there is a little rumble from the focuser and it stops with two beeps. Sometimes it gives me the beeps right away and refuses to move. With a few retries it moves again. At this point I'm thinking it might be due to the temperature? It's -21C outside, and this is the first time I'm using the scope in these temperatures. Could it be that the focuser operation becomes janky enough to cause the focuser to trip, possibly due to overcurrent? If this is the case, how could I remedy it? The scope is a Takahashi TOA-130F.

I'm running ASIAIR, so no Windows involved. I tried adjusting the step size, no effect.

Hi all! I've run into problems with my EAF, which I use with ASIAIR. The AF functionality has worked fine for me so far, but now it is failing me for some reason. When I try to initiate the AF sequence, it takes an image, after which it usually moves the focuser. However, now I get two beeps and an error message: "EAF abnormal or movement range not enough, try adjusting the step size." Nothing has changed since last time when everything worked just fine. Well, I did change a filter. I can move the focuser manually to the focus point, and beyond, so physical limits should not be the issue. Have you run into the same issue, or would you otherwise have any suggestions how to solve this? I'm drawing a blank. It tells me to adjust the step size, but why would it suddenly be a problem, and how should I change it?

At long last I managed to record my first image with the TOA-130F I acquired late last spring. The summer hiatus seemed endless before the darkness returned, and with autumn also the near constant rain and busy schedules made their comeback. On Saturday I finally had a chance to test imaging with the scope (I have had a chance to do some visual observation). My idea was to record a few test images just to see if everything is working correctly. I took a few 1s exposures to take a closer look at stars and such, but managed to fail that task by aiming at a portion of the sky with too few stars, so those don't really provide much information. For proper imaging I wanted to target the Cygnus area, which is still quite well placed in the sky for now before traversing lower and behind streetlights and trees later in the winter. I picked the Eastern Veil as the target, set up guiding and managed one (1) 10 minute exposure before the clouds rolled in. Let's see when I get the next chance, the forecast is cloudy for the foreseeable future... The moon was almost full and quite high, but luckily at least on the other side of the sky. Given that it is only one sub in questionable conditions, I thought I'd share this image in a raw state. Thus it might serve as bit of a test image. So keeping with that idea I have only performed the following tasks in PI: debayer, autostretch, automatic background extraction. I see some elongation in the top left, and the stars seem a bit square to me. I'll have to take some proper test images for more accurate judging, though. Guiding errors and the oncoming cloudy haze might have caused anomalies here. Despite the potential troubleshooting emerging, I'm still really really excited about finally getting the first image with the scope! Judging for what it is, what can you see (besides the shadow of the OAG in the top right corner 😅)? Equipment used: Takahashi TOA-130F + reducer, ASI071MC-Pro, OAG, ASIAIR, Ioptron CEM60, Optolong L-Enhance

Thank you for the suggestions, I will take a look!

It would indeed be a substantial tome, wouldn't it? 🙂 Basically an endless subject for study when you start looking at different cultures. I would be more than happy to start by knowing the stories behind the names I have come to know as a part of "western" cultures.

This is a good idea, thanks! I can't believe there isn't a book on the market that would be a collection of these myths. I mean, they are probably among the oldest documented tales there are. Of course basically all cultures have their own, but you know what I mean. If such a book really doesn't exist, I'm thinking I will do the research and write one!

Thank you Astro Noodles! I wasn't familiar with these books, and they both seem interesting! However, I'm not sure they are exactly what I'm after. If I understand correctly from the descriptions, the books are about the significance of stars and related myths on human cultural evolution and how the relationship has changed over time. While this is very interesting, I'm looking for a source for the myths themselves, if that makes sense.

Hello all! In my bookcase I have a few selected works that do a very good job of satisfying my curiosity about the scientific background information of the objects that I observe or image in the sky. However, I also have a strong interest in the cultural, historical and mythological stories behind these objects, and I would very much like to educate myself more on the subject. Telling these stories to friends and especially children could make them that much more interested in the night sky as well. Explaining gas compositions and distances in light years is fascinating too, but in a different way. How Perseus saved princess Andromeda, why Orion is being chased by Scorpius, and so on. Many stars have their names from Arabic, what are the stories behind those? Are there any books that would explain the stories of the heavenly bodies from this point of view?

Oh dear, don't give me these dangerous ideas! 😆

Please others correct me if I get this wrong. I'm not sure about OCA, but GPC stands for Glass Path Corrector. They are optical accessories to binoviewers and are used to correct for optical aberrations caused by the prisms in the binoviewer. They also move the focal point and change magnification. A typical problem with binoviewers is that you run out of focuser travel in your scope. GPC's can be used to address that problem. Here is a table from the Baader Maxbright manual, showing how the needed in-focus changes with different diagonals and GPC's:

This is a good point, thanks! With my telescope (TOA-130) I should be able to get by with a 1,25x GPC, or perhaps none at all. But still, important to keep in mind.

May I ask why in particular? Nice setup! I like the charts on the walls! 👍

Thanks for sharing your experience! Well explained, and makes sense. That would be an OK compromise, I think, to decide to go for mono or bino when planning a session. It still leaves the "anxiety" of accumulating more stuff, but that sort of thing seems inevitable in this hobby anyway.

Apologies for abandoning my own topic! It seems that the Rowan is the clear favorite, as many of the contenders are not available anymore. For me this season will be over in a week or so with the darkness fading away for a few months. That will let me simmer this matter on the back burner for a while and make decisions when the skies return in the autumn. Thanks to all participants for your valuable input!

Hi all! I recently had a chance to have a go with binoviewers. For me, the experience was similar to the first time I tried clipless pedals on a bicycle. Transformative might be an appropriate word. So comfortable, and looking at the moon for example, it was enthralling, more real (with the lack of a better description). Some of the more memorable views of the moon, to be honest, and that was with humble 32mm Plossls. Now, this got me thinking. Going the binoviewer route is yet again one of those choices that is bound to get expensive for obvious reasons. However, a few strategically chosen eyepiece pairs and a barlow for example could go a very long way. What I wouldn't like is the prospect of changing back and forth between mono and binoviewing. In my case that would require either a new diagonal, or screwing adapters in the dark, which personally is a big turn off. I like keeping things simple so that I can focus on doing what I enjoy rather than faffing about with adapters and a countless possible combinations of eyepieces, extenders etc. In order to keep things under control I would have to decide between mono and binoviewing. Not both. Going full stereo means goodbyes to 2" eyepieces, which could actually cover some of the cost. The most concrete sacrifice would be the low power views. With my scope the maximum 1,25" FOV with a Panoptic 24mm or equivalent would yield 42X and a 1,55 degrees. Not a panoramic vista, I suppose, but still considerably wider than I used to get with my C11 and ES82 30mm (93X, 0,88 degrees). By comparison, the 30mm would get me 33X and 2,46 degrees in cyclops mode. Granted, only I can judge whether the low power views are, in my personal case, worth sacrificing for ease of use, lower investment and overall astronomical feng shui. But I would like to ask you, have any of you gone down the same road? What did you decide and why?

Solution to what exactly, if I may ask? Regarding the CEM60? For me the ASIair Pro works fine now once I understood how the unit "sees" the mount's USB hub. I don't have the ASIair on the scope anymore, but attached to the mount. All accessories on the scope connect to the saddle hub, so cable snags will not be an issue in any orientation which was my main goal.

Thanks Jeremy! I suppose I did know this. And yet, there was a hope that I would have missed something. 😄

I´m contemplating getting an alt-az mount for my Takahashi TOA-130F (still can´t believe I´m saying that). I already have a CEM60, which I´m planning to put on a pier for a semi-permanent imaging setup. For the times I´m imaging with other equipment, or I would like to take the scope to a darker site to enjoy visual observation, a simpler mounting solution that doesn´t require power seems tempting to me. I thoroughly appreciate the bells and whistles that along with modern software makes astronomy (especially imaging) far easier than it used to be. Having said that, occasionally I do enjoy just pushing all that aside and spending some time with only a scope and a star chart. By doing that I also hope to get to know my new lifetime companion in the Takahashi a bit better, and form a relationship of sorts with it. Sounds very corny, but I hope you understand... 🤓 On the Cloudy Nights forums many seem to use Discmounts DM6, and some discontinued models like T-Rex and Half/Nova Hitch. FLO seems to sell a Rowan mount, which looks very nice. What options do I have for the TOA? I wouldn´t mind finding something cheaper than DM6 or Rowan, but the TOA is quite a handful and requires a substantial mount. Reasonably vibration damping and smooth operation are a must for enjoyable manual viewing. If the CEM60 would mainly reside on a pier, that would free up the Berlebach Planet for visual duties. Tripod-wise I should be fine, then. Any thoughts?

Hah, that's funny! Although I must say that the idea about getting the rings has crossed my mind. I'll use the scope for a while as is to see how badly I really need them. No need to fix what ain't broken, especially as the rings aren't that cheap either. The handle would be nice, though. Still, I might prefer mounting the scope to the rings that are already attached to the saddle. To me sliding the dovetail into the saddle feels more awkward, even with handle. Without one it's almost a non-starter.