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Ryan_86

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Posts posted by Ryan_86

  1. 10 minutes ago, vlaiv said:

    Hi, I just had a look at data you posted and am slightly confused about it.

    What stage of processing is this? I'm asking because I expected data straight out of DSS after stacking, but attached files feel like something has been done to them and I don't know quite what. It might be as simple thing as doing slight stretch in DSS itself or maybe some sharpening or something.

    Background does not feel right, stars don't feel right - something is odd. Can you explain how you did your integration? (did you drizzle or do something "fancy" to the data?).

    To be precise of what I mean, here is a piece of red channel in RGB composition:

    image.png.2ea17dc0d69f07171dd96c9c2554ac45.png

    Grain is too big in the background - like image was enlarged or maybe I don't know, sharpened or denoised or combination of the two done.

    Btw, to answer your initial question, here is what I would do to do SHO with Ha lum composition (not sure if you can do that in PS, maybe you can with some clever layer manipulation):

    1. make sure data is nicely stacked and linear, it is in 32bit float format (instead of 16bit fixed point/int)

    2. do background elimination at this stage (wipe)

    3. I would do individual stretch on each of R, G and B channels until I get nice looking nebulosity in each and then combine result in RGB image. You can use quite heavy denoising at this stage - this is just color information and it is not as important to preserve it's full sharpness.

    4. I do the same with Ha to create luminance layer - stretch it, do sharpening / denoising - full processing thing like you would do mono image until you are happy with result.

    5. Take rgb image and create "RGB map" image out of it - which is just R = R/max(R,G,B), G = G/max(R,G,B), B = B/max(R,G,B) . That is tricky part to do in PS, maybe one could do it with layers (make image from 3 layers set to "max value" then make other images with layers set to "divide value" or something like that).

    6. Take completed luminance and multiply with Rmap, Gmap and Bmap to get R, G and B channels of completed color image.

    Hi Vlaiv, 

    Thanks for your reply. 

    During integration I didn't drizzle, will try and give a break down of my stack. 

    Used the best Ha frame as a reference for all 3 stacks. Used a 3x3 median noise reduction as the H18 is really noisy. Lights, bias and flats are stacked via kappa sigma clipping and applied to the three stacks. In the cosmetic section I did apply a 3 pixel removal of both hot and cold pixels (will this effect the weired grainines)? 

    Maybe I have gone wrong during the stacking process. 

    Thanks again Vlaiv👍🏼

     

  2. Hi guys, 

    Can anybody help a  prevent a Welsh guy from throwing his laptop into one of Brecon Beacon reservoirs 😬

    I have gathered my 1st set of narrowband images of the Heart Nebula (10x600sec through each Ha, Sii & Oiii). I would really appreciate some help with a basic workflow of my rgb image prior to applying my Ha stack as a luminance layer. All stacks are calibrated with bias, flats and a 3x3 median noise reduction as I'm using a SXVR-H18 mono camera. 

    I've stacked using DSS & am using Photoshop 2019 to post process. I have Adam Blocks Every Pixel Counts video tutorials & Steve Richards Dark Art book, noel carbons action toolset, HSLVG & GradientXterminator plug-ins at my disposal. However I am struggling to determine what steps to take and when. I've decided to assign my stacked filter sets to the SHO Hubble palette. My rgb and Ha luminance layer are aligned and cropped accordingly 👍🏼

    Here are both my  merged rgb Sii-red, Ha-green & Oiii-blue and my Ha luminance image originals.

    Any help would be very much appreciated. 

    Thanks guys

    Ryan

     

    16bit tiff Ha aligned to rgb.tif

    16bit tiff RGB aligned to Ha lum.tif

  3. 1 hour ago, Morddraig said:

    I have a skywatcher quatro8 ota on a eq5 pro. If you wouldn't mind, I would jump at the chance to go through polar alignment etc. I live in Mornington Meadows.  Sorry for the late reply, been away. 

     

    Hi pal, that is not a problem. I am away until the 7th of September so we can go through your setup ( scope collimation, balancing, polar alignment etc). 

    Do you have Facebook, we could arrange something via that if you like?

    Cheers

  4. Hi Rob, 

    Apologies I should of explained a little better. The modded NEQ6 has been already been done by Rother Valley, this comes with a their own warranty.

    They have mentioned that many of their customers when guiding have more of a flat line on the PHD graph, compared to a stock guided EQ6-R Pro . The EQ6-R Pro does have a slightly heavier payload and is only £50 more expensive & has the stronger bolts. Price wise, if I bouhh the upgraded bolts the price would be the same.

    It's a tough decision, Rother claim the upgraded Neq6 has better accuracy ehich is seaying me towards it. What do you think Rob?

    Much appreciated

    Ryan

  5. Hi guys,

     

    Interesting read this! I am in the middle of planning my imaging rig. At the moment I have a small portable set up, consisting of the star adventurer, Zenithstar61 and a Synguider ll attached to a 50mm finder guider. Due to the weather I am yet to try the Z61 and guiding combo. I plan on keeping this portable set up for trips etc, however I am torn between an NEQ6-Pro with Rowan belt mod and re-grease, or the new EQ6-R-Pro. I plan on using the synguider with the big mount also. 

    Would I be better off going for the EQ6-R-Pro? Also I plan on adding a 120mm refractor asap.

     

    Thanks guys

  6. On 30/11/2017 at 22:01, serbiadarksky said:

    I guide it, thats the key ;)

    Loving your efforts??

    Ive recently added the z61 and a stand alone guiding system to my set up. Its been cloudy ever since. 

    Keep inspiring us with your images pal.

    I will be replacing those gym weights with wrist/ankle straps weights.

    Cheers

    Ryan

    20180202_230924.jpg

    • Like 3
  7. Hi all, I have recently purchased a 50mm guidescope, Synguider 2, Primalucelab guide rings and a mini vixen style dovetail plate.

    I have spoke to various SA users all of whom either guide from the dslr hotshoe, or on the counter weight side of the SA L-bracket. To be honest I am going around in circles. 

    50% of fellow SA owners have advised I guide on top of the dslr for differential flexure reasons. However the other 50% guide via a ball head on the other side of the L-bracket. I was informed that if I do mount it this way as long as I guide from the equatorial plane or as close to the imaging train as possible, there should be no reason to encounter guiding errors. Also it helps equilibrate the SA and reduce flexions and inertias.

    (I really don't know which option one to go for)

    Would any of you knowledgeable people be kind enough to help me out.

    Much appreciated

    Ryan 

     

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