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Everything posted by Clockwork_Orange

  1. Hi Martin I used the adapters below and made my own leads up. I've got a little hardware/electrical shop I pass on the way to work who sells them 99p each . The hitec dew 4 port is tip positive so is the mount and the adapters are marked + and - so it's a fairly easy lead to make. You could try somewhere like mapplins or just google them to find a uk supplier if your ok with online purchases. Regards John
  2. Hi Chris I use these sticky back cable tie mounts, you can get them off ebay for a couple of quid. They stick like the proverbial
  3. Hi Roy I think Chris may have intended to say "load" RAW into DSS. There have been a few issues with versions of DSS prior to 3.3.4 that newer canon RAW files would not load correctly, some people as a work around converted there RAWs to TIFs to get DSS to accept them. The Kapper Sigma is one of the options that can be set within DSS to then stack the loaded RAWs John
  4. Lol had to smile when I read that, but it is so true. Incoming!!!!! Russ you could just attach the laser to your finder with zip ties and then clip a peg on to switch it on. Making sure there's nothing flying in the immediate area first. John
  5. Nice start Paul, second image shows a fair amount of detail, how many frames are you capturing for stacking? John
  6. Hi Gary Can't really answer your question regarding y800 setting as I've never used it. Yes you can soon start filling your hard drive to overflow after 30 or 40 runs at it. I bought a couple of terabyte usb drives and copy the data over to them at the end of the session. When I first started using the terabyte drives I saved direct to them until I realised it slowed the frame rate on the camera to a crawl. So now I keep at least 100 mb free on the computer and save to that first, then copy over to the drives at the end or when full, which ever comes first. I'd be mindful about going any higher with the barlow rating, It works for some people but hasn't for me. I have a 2.5 powermate but find it just to much on the SE8 with the neximage. I'd rather capture it with the 2 xcel and then increase the image scale by a fraction at the end of processing in registax. I'm even looking to drop it down from a 2 x barlow to a 1.5 on the asi120mm I use as 2x seems to much for that on the 8Se but I am at F10 to start with. Guess your going to have to experiment on that aspect for yourself as your starting from a different F ratio. Just keep having a go at it and make notes of the date and different settings you try, other wise you'll forget what works, as said you're initial images have plenty of detail there, but the seeing has been poor, it'll just click right for you one of the coming nights and you'll be blown away at the difference in capture quality. You've obviously cracked the tracking and focus so no issues there to worry about. Good luck with it John
  7. Hi Russ With regards to your first alignment star being off. Next time you fire it up at the first alignment point dont use the buttons on the hand control or EQ mod if your using it. Instead to center the star slacken off the clutches and manually center the star in your finder then lock up the clutches and press enter. then carry on as normal the next alignment star should be in view. Do you park the scope at the end of your session? if so when you do the park point will have moved due to the manual clutch adjustment. So long as you adopt this as your new start position the next time you use it then the alignment stars should be pretty close. John
  8. Hi Gary Some nice detail coming through there buddy, I think the main issue is the seeing, the jet stream has not been ideally placed of late. Hopefully things will improve shortly. One thing you can try with the neximage is adjusting the colours in the icap if your using it, the colour balance at the default values on the neximage are off slightly giving a green cast. Once the camera is connected click on the device tab in icap and bring up the camera properties box. You'll see that the RGB values are all set to 100 by default. I've found adjusting the red to around 110, the green to around 87 and the blue to around 120 gives a better balance, it may vary slightly from these values on yours but it'll give you a start point. I tend to run it at about 35 to 40 fps and capture 2000 frames then you'll have a reasonable sized stack to work with. But as said earlier the seeing has been against you, I managed this image last February with the settings above on a night off very good seeing, I was using a 2 xcel barlow at the time on my se8 taking my F to 20. Regards John
  9. I think if your going to be using a canon you'll end up lined up with the the bottom of the chip as the camera is so close it'll probably hit the guide camera mount if set at the top. I ve never used a qhy5 so not sure how you'll get on hitting guide stars with it. I know I've managed ok with the lodestar to date, but I know it's a pretty sensitive camera so that has probably helped a great deal on that score. John
  10. Looks a neat bit of kit, does it come with any adapters for attaching the guide camera? You might find something like a baader T thread 1.25" helical focuser useful for that. It looks like you can adjust the stalk of the pickup prism to sit up inside the throat of the qhy5. Just measure it first so you don't end up hitting the chip with it. I have and use something very similar and I've had to adjusted the stalk so that it stands proud of the top plate by about 7mm. It was the only way I could achieve focus with the canon attached to the back of the OAG. Luckily the lodestar guide camera sensor was set far enough up inside to allow me to do it. If it hadn't of being I would have ended up having to cut the stalk down slightly to accommodate. John
  11. I don't think its that good a package to be honest, £1489.00 for the 8". I'd rather purchase the standard 8" on a VX for £1205.00 and then purchase a wifi adaptor and sky safari pro for under £200. Just in my own humble opinion. John
  12. Hi Jack When you attach your imaging camera to the OAG it is best to line the little pick off prism of the OAG with either the top or bottom of the of the camera chip, your then less likely to get any issues with the prism effecting the incoming light onto the imagining camera. As pointed out by others the orientation of the actual guide camera chip is not that important to start with and don't worry to much about it. You may find once you have everything working that lining the guide camera chip up with the ra and dec axis of your mount advantageous when it comes to diagnosing any guiding errors that occur. Best to set it up in the daylight if you can, it will certainly be easier to get the imaging and guide camera both focused together. Then come dark you should only have small adjustments to have to make. John
  13. Hi Redfox If your buying it new then the 6se comes with a very useable 25mm plossl eyepiece. I'd agree with earlier comments about an 8mm bst very good value for the money. John
  14. Hi Annie Providing your PA is pretty good and you have little or no cone error then yes that would be fine, Ps the instructions for the alteration of the alignment star setup are on page 27. John
  15. Hi Annie There is an option hidden in the handset to display the alignment Stars alphabetically, go into the setup option and scroll through until you reach alignment stars and select how you wish to have them displayed, alphabetically then allows you to select the first star from the full catalogue which is fine if your just doing a single star alignment. If your doing a two star for some reason it does still seem to limit the choice a bit , but you should find it better like this. Regards John
  16. Well I've had another attempt at the stack, as Astro pointed out it did look a little green, I think this time it has come out slightly better, but maybe I think I should re stack with a new set of flats possibly as the flats used were looking a bit dodgy. Regards John
  17. Thanks for the input guys, I'll have a little dabble at adjusting the colour balance. Regards John
  18. Hi All Not really done a lot of DSO imaging mainly planetary and lunar to date, so be gentle please. Started to capture at the end of November using canon 1000D unmodded on Megrez 72 at native F6 with a SW FF, with OAG via PHD1, Light pollution in Wolverhampton is pretty bad at times, so I used a CLS clip in filter on the Canon. Finally finished up with 63 10min subs at the end of December, down loaded the Pixinsight trial and have spent the last few day's with Harry's tutorials, (Tips hat to Ian, topman great Vid's). I calibrated in Pi with 50 bias and 20 flats (I think I need to have another go at the flats I'm sure I can see the material weave in the flats as I used a cotton shirt over the scope and I think the light I used was to strong either that or I need to double the shirt up again). decided to leave the darks out for now. Followed Harry's instructions and finally finished it off in Photoshop. Got to say I've really enjoyed doing this and will be getting Pixinsight when the trial expires and also looking at getting a modded 1200D, guess I'm hooked. I look forward to any advice or critique on the attached, are 10min subs about right for this set up?. I've had a Coma Corrector for the 130PDS for Christmas so weather permitting I'll have another go at this target with the 130PDS before I loose M31 behind trees sometime in Feb. Many Thanks and Regards John
  19. Clockwork_Orange


  20. From the album: DSO

    63 10min subs-Taken with Canon 1000D and Megrez 72 Calibrated with 60 Bias and 20 Flats-No Darks in Pixinsight-DBE-ATwavelets-TGVdenoise-HDR then adjusted in Photoshop

    © JWP

  21. Stunning is the only word that come to mind Uranium, cant wait to see the end result. Regards JP
  22. Hi Ian There is a couple of tutorials on DSS and one of them covers stacking from different sessions, you can find at BugetAstro.net Just click on the tutorials tab and sit back and absorb. You've caught the bug good and proper now, well done with your photos to date, and well done to everyone that's chipped in to help get you sorted. It's what makes this site stand out, all these outstanding people. Regards John
  23. Hi Louise I inadvertently trod on one of my USB plugs, thinking that I'd broken it I tried it anyway and it's now a nice tight fit when plugged in and still works perfectly. If you carefully apply a bit of pressure to the plain side of the connector it should cause the metal gap to close up slightly making it a tighter fit, but please go easy you only need to miss shape it 1mm no more. The photo below might explain what I mean. When plugged in the curve in the plain side seems to help it grip onto the laptop and holds it in place well. Hope this helps John
  24. Hi Cam Got to say I've never gone down the guide scope route, but if your at the 6Kg mark you should be ok. I use OAG's all the time, not had any problems with finding stars to guide on, but then again I do use a Lodestar as a guide cam. I had read a fair bit before starting to image and the subject of Flexure kept raising its head, hence my choice of the OAG route. Spacing can be a bit of a pain to sort out but once its done thats it. I managed to source a 1mm EOS bayonet adapter and a very slim OAG which I tend to use most on the Megrez 72 with a SW FF. As Rowan has pointed out this may be an option you could consider with the 80ED. Regards John
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