jambouk

Thanks.

Mystery solved.

The RGB filters I had (£75 Baader ones) do not block IR, and in fact they all transmitted IR. So unless using with an IR-blocking filter, not a lot of use for mono planetary imaging. I'm getting the ZWO ones which do block IR.

Thanks.

James

When imaging with a mono camera and RGB filters, do others use an IR cut filter when using the RGB filters, or just the RGB filters alone and then an IR-cut mono image for luminance?

Thanks.

James

What do you want to do with the filters and what scope and camera do you have? 

It’s normal. You need to move the RA clutch lever to the next hole on the right. It takes some time to “bed in”, well mine did. 

I’m unsure of the question, sorry.I run most of my kit from 12v batteries unregulated; it’s all fused but unregulated. 

I wouldn’t run off the battery during say light though as there would be changes in voltage quite quickly if connected to the solar panel. 

I've orered a 4m one and will test it out and report back. Thanks.

James

USB3 maximum length appears to be 3m, but there are longer cables available (4m, 5m etc). Has anyone used a hight frame rate camera like a ZWO on a USB3 lead longer than 3m and if so, with what sucess?

Thanks.

James

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-USB-3-0-Shielded-USB-Type-A-to-USB-Type-B-Male-Gold-Printer-Cable-Lead/264314470493?hash=item3d8a5ec05d:g:2goAAOSwAFBZuTg6

Thanks, very informative reply. 

Thanks.

With my C14 and the 290 the sampling is 0.15”/pix at f/11 and max frame rate at 640x480 of 184fps; with the 174 and a 2x PowerMate the sampling is 0.15”/pix at f/22 and a max frame rate at 640x480 of 309fps.

How does the pixel size actually make a difference in these situations? 

I recently got the non-Rh version and it is lovely. I was blown away by the GOTO accuracy even with a C14 onboard. Have yet to do any long exposure imaging with it, just planetary so far.

Nice. 

Lovely.

This camera is most often advertised as being for lunar and solar imaging, with very few retailing sites mentioning of planetary imaging. Is there a reason for this? I’d have thought with the VERY high frame rate capability it would be ideal for the brighter planets. 

Yes, that is fine, much more manageable focal length. You could get the AZ version. Really depends why you want.

60amp hour, so at 50% discharge that is a 120 amp hour battery. That is still a beast. The less you discharge it, the longer it will last. 

It’s cute, but still has a relatively long focal length so needs something stable to hold it, and track. Depends what you want to look at. Personally I’d go for a refractor for a small grab and go.

I’m still unsure what your total W requirements are. If you are using a laptop that could easily be 50w / hr, so say 100W / hr in total for 4 hours a night for three nights; that’s 1200W. At 12v that is 100amp hour battery which would be 100% flat, and I’d aim for 25% discharge, so you need a 400amp hour battery...!  Clearly that’s not feasible [certainly not portable], so I think my numbers are wrong.

You don’t need ascom

The new EQ8 is lovely but I wouldn’t describe it as portable. It is portable, but the mount alone weights 80mg (tripod, mount and counter weights).

Do be careful. I’ve cut holes in a sandwich box before and used rubber buns to make a semi air tight seal for wires in and out and have a 249v connection inside the box to protect from the dew. Ideally use a 12v supply near the device rather than 240v, but it can be done. Be careful.

Should be ok, but check the splitter can take 10amps. Cigarette lighter sockets are the most unstable possible. You’d be better to change the ends to something which screws on.

How many watts will all your kit use per hour, and how many hours do you want it to run for before you recharge? 

EQ8. If I didn't have the top plate [disc], I'm not sure how I'd attach the puck to the lower plate [disc] with M18 bolts, as the whole of the flat surface of the puck is in contact with the flat surface of the mount. Image below of the Altair Astro puck below and the illustration of it from the FLO website.

Thanks. Which is more important, stability or being perfectly level? 
James

MarkAR - thanks again. I think a plan is coming together.

How many M18s do you think would be optimum between the two discs? I was thinking five, as it is a number I like and I could still easily get my hands between them, leaving a 100mm gap between the top and bottom plates. Can I use stainless steel threaded bar and cut to desired length with nuts above and below each plate, or is it best to use stainless steel M18 200mm bolts?

James