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  1. hi all was out last night imaging the leo triplet. got about 35 minutes worth of exposure time, and im pretty pleased with the results i can get in deep sky stacker. however im having trouble getting any sort of decent result in post-processing. does anyone have any advice on how to process galaxies in GIMP, or know anywhere i can find some help? (most tutorial on the web seem to photoshop) many thanks, Harry
  2. yeah im pretty sure i was pointing in the right place. it would just be really easy if i had a way of flicking through the images
  3. they were less than that, about 4 or 5 seconds. i didnt want the stars to trail. i guess i could look through the subs for a line, unless it would be too short with those exposures
  4. Hi all, wondering if anyone can help me here. so, i was out on the 26th/27th trying to image the asteroid, and I'm having trouble spotting if i captured it or not. I had a 50mm lens on a static tripod, and i took about 40 or 50 images each a minute apart. I was hoping to be able to flick though the images afterwards and look for a little moving speck. However, because i wasnt tracking, the whole star field moves between each frame, making spotting the asteroid difficult. Can anyone recommend any software (or any existing functions in registax, deep sky stacker, GIMP etc) that will let me align the star fields, either into a single image or a set of nicely lined up ones? many thanks, Harry
  5. Okay yeah, glad to know it's not just me. I'll consider getting some different eyecups. Do you happen to know if the celestron ones are supposed to come off? I have tried pulling them and they sort of half come off, but they might be glued at one point. Or does it not matter? Do seperately purchased cups fit over the existing ones?
  6. hi charic, thanks for the reply i can get the full field of view when i fold them down, they work great when i do that. I just can't get close enough when they're up. Obviously it doesn't affect how the binoculars function, but it would be nice to be able to block out any stray light when I'm out stargazing with them (i live in a fairly urban area), plus they can help steady yours eyes a little. I think i'll just try and fashion some sort of deflectors or light shields out of cardboard or something if i really need to. thanks for the advice anyway, and merry Christmas
  7. hi again i know this thread is a bit old now, but i was hoping some of you may be able to provide me with a little more advice. so, ive just got the Celestron Skymaster 20x80s (for Christmas). ive only had the chance to test them out during the daytime so far, and im generally quite pleased, but there's one thing that's really bugging me. Basically, i'm not able to use them at all with the eye cups up! For my eyes to be close enough to the eyepiece lenses to see the whole field of view, i need to push the bridge of my nose right into the eyecups, which is not only uncomfortable but aslo causes a lot of unnecessary shake when theyre on a tripod. Its really annoying, and i was wondering whether anyone else has experienced this, or whether anyone could give me any advice? I thought something like these ( http://www.aceoptics.co.uk/avian-eyeshield-winged-eyecups.html ) might work, but didnt know whether the celestron eye cups were removable or not (i dont want to end up riving them off and voiding the warrenty). any help would be much appreciated many thanks, Harry
  8. thanks everyone for the advice! i've now decided to steer clear of that 2nd hand pair (the collimation was dreadful, totally unusable as they were). I'll probably go with the Celestrons. I know I would get even better quality if i spent more money, but i'll only be using them for a bit of observing when my 200p is busy with imaging, so i can live with that. thanks again for the help, been very useful (as always)
  9. yeah field of view is apparently only 2 degrees on those, not great. plus, the apparent field of view seemed tiny. might just go for the celestrons then. cheers for the quick reply
  10. Hi all, just after a bit of bino buying advice. I've decided I want to get myself a pair of 80mm (or similar) binoculars, but I can't quite decide which ones (my budget is around £100). I've been looking at the Celestron Skymaster 20x80s which, judging by the reviews, seems like one of the best pairs for the money. However, I've recently spotted a 2nd hand pair of Opticron 30x80s (the ones without the balance bar, now discontinued) on sale. I've had a look at them, and they need a bit of collimation work, but they originally cost around the £300 mark, more than twice the current asking price. So, do you think the latter pair would be that much better than the new celestrons, since they cost considerably more when they were new? If anyone has any experience with the Opticrons, i would love to know your thoughts. kind regards, Harry
  11. yeah could be. Ive always got similarly mediocre results with Jupiter too really. no fine detail, just blurr :/
  12. hi all, just wondering if anyone could give me some advice on a bit of planetary imaging. So, I was out observing last night and I spent some time getting some AVIs of Mars with my 200p, using my Philips spc900nc webcam. I've since run them through rexistax, and this is the best I can get. I was using a (tracking) skywatcher 200p, and had the webcam through an Antares 3X barlow. I recorded at 60fps for about four minutes, so got about 13,000 frames, and i stacked the best 25% of frames (and pushed the wavelets up a little). I've seen far better results with similar equipment, so am i doing something wrong, or is this all I can expect from my set up? PS: i spent some time getting good focus on a bright star with a bahtinov mask, so i don't think its the focus.
  13. thanks Steve! saturation worked a treat. Now to do the same for my other photos :L. cheers for the help
  14. thanks for the quick replies guys I am shooting in raw, but its only a 5 minute exposure of 20 subs stacked in deep sky stacker, with no post processing. All i did was tweak the curve in DSS a little. Here's a single jpeg frame i took whilst lining up the shot, i think its about 15 seconds exposure. (again, I've had to crop it a lot to reduce the file size enough).
  15. Hi all, just wondering if anyone can give me some advice on how to get more colour in my deep sky objects. Attached is an image i took last night of M27 (stacked in DSS); 20 15 second subs at ISO 800, with darks, with a canon 1100D on a 200p (unguided). The individual JPEG test shots i took didn't show as much detail, but there were vivid reds are greeny-blues visible in the nebula, but none in the stacked image. Do i just need to do longer exposures of, say, 20 minutes? any help would be much appreciated Harry KIlmartin PS: I've had to crop the image down quite a bit to reduce the file size.
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