oymd

7 hours ago, scotty38 said:

I'll check all my settings tomorrow and see what I have. Mine is a GT81 and I'm probably a third of the way out from zero at about 6/7000 steps so probably about the same as you for total steps....

I have the same exact EAF fitted to the WO Star71. 
 

It never makes a sound. 
 

I have no idea why this one I just fitted to the Esprit is non stop beeping?

I had a look in the manual, and there is no mention at all of the beeps? Not sure if it’s normal or an error code. 
 

The EAF is behaving very strange. 
 

during it’s travel, it changes from coarse to fine when I am racking in and out? When it’s moving SLOW it beeps with every step, then jumps to FAST and no beeps. 
 

And it moves to SLOW at the same places either way? At the 2cm mark, 4cm mark and 8cm mark. 
 

So, moving from 0.5cm to 9cm takes forever, as even if I choose FAST, it still moves at SLOW at those three levels and beeps with every step. 

1 minute ago, scotty38 said:

I'm not quite sure the effect it would have but have you set it to "reverse" in the screenshot?

It was set as that by default.

Tried unclicking it, and same thing, but in opposite direction.

From Zero position to the 9cm mark is 19000 steps.

And the beeping is driving me nuts!

I never ticked the beep option!!

5 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

In NINA open the setting on the EAF driver page, move the scope to the start, and enter zero and set in the driver..and then set a max steps of 30000 and then it won’t go above that amount…
The EAF focus motors are renowned for having quite a bit of backlash, so your figure is probably correct

3 hours ago, Richard_ said:

Funnily enough, the backlash with the EAF on my 120mm WO refractor was also approximately 190. I found that this was consistent in one direction (extending the draw tube out) but not always repeatable in the other direction. 

I use and ASI Air Pro and if I leave the backlash value empty, the software works it out for me. This is fine for me, so I didn't bother putting the backlash value in. 

1 hour ago, Stuart1971 said:

When you have your focuser racked all the way in, you want NINA to report a position of zero, this way it won’t crash the focuser into the housing, as it’s its a rack and pinion, it can cause damage, and same for max settings, I always set my zero a few MM from the end…

Set it on the focuser tab, put zero in the box and sync…

1 hour ago, scotty38 said:

On the equipment page in NINA, before you connect, click on the gears icon and that's where you can set up the zero point. Within NINA i just kept nudging it in until there was a tiny gap before being fully racked in then, on the gears icon, set that as the Zero position.

Here is a screen shot of what's on my screen.

The focuser now is ALL OUT at 9cm.

4 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

In NINA open the setting on the EAF driver page, move the scope to the start, and enter zero and set in the driver..and then set a max steps of 30000 and then it won’t go above that amount…
The EAF focus motors are renowned for having quite a bit of backlash, so your figure is probably correct

3 hours ago, Richard_ said:

Funnily enough, the backlash with the EAF on my 120mm WO refractor was also approximately 190. I found that this was consistent in one direction (extending the draw tube out) but not always repeatable in the other direction. 

I use and ASI Air Pro and if I leave the backlash value empty, the software works it out for me. This is fine for me, so I didn't bother putting the backlash value in. 

1 hour ago, Stuart1971 said:

When you have your focuser racked all the way in, you want NINA to report a position of zero, this way it won’t crash the focuser into the housing, as it’s its a rack and pinion, it can cause damage, and same for max settings, I always set my zero a few MM from the end…

Set it on the focuser tab, put zero in the box and sync…

1 hour ago, scotty38 said:

On the equipment page in NINA, before you connect, click on the gears icon and that's where you can set up the zero point. Within NINA i just kept nudging it in until there was a tiny gap before being fully racked in then, on the gears icon, set that as the Zero position.

Thanks, I founds the gears tab on the Focuser page.

So, using the ZWO hand controller, I racked the focuser all the way in till a few mm from the end, at the 0.5cm mark, and set to ZERO.

The focuser keeps beeping like crazy. While racking in the focuser, it just randomly goes at the SLOW option beeping every few seconds, then stops beeping when the focuser changes to FAST setting.

Anyways, I racked the focuser ALL the way OUT, and it reads as current position is: 17057?

How is that possible?

The focuser is at almost 9cm out.

If the focuser has 60000 steps, how come I am at 17000 from all the way in to all the way out?

3 hours ago, Stuart1971 said:

In NINA open the setting on the EAF driver page, move the scope to the start, and enter zero and set in the driver..and then set a max steps of 30000 and then it won’t go above that amount…
The EAF focus motors are renowned for having quite a bit of backlash, so your figure is probably correct

Many thanks for your reply. 
 

When you say, move the scope to the start, do you mean RACK THE FOCUSER ALL IN TO ZERO, or move the focuser to the point where I am roughly IN FOCUS? Which for me would be at the 6 mark?

Also, in NINA, you mentioned to set the figure to ZERO. Where can I do that?

I was on the Equipment ==> Focuser page, and there is no option to change the values myself?

Thanks . 

1 hour ago, Jonny_H said:

There is a screw hole on the focus knob 'barrel/shaft' (not sure what terminology to use). You can see one at the bottom of the photo on the other knob. This is the one which ZWO advise to use.

Ah, I see. Is it an M4 as well? How long is it?

thanks. 

I’m struggling to set up the BACKLASH.

I am using NINA.

The focuser is new, the newer 5V one. I fixed it using the Takahashi bracket.

I had setup up another EAF on a WO Star 71, and it was much easier, and works perfectly. I do not recall how I had set it up, as I followed a YouTube video that I cannot find any more. There is VERY SHORT TRAVEL on the WO Star 71's focuser.

In NINA, I cannot find the option to set the focus to Zero or 30,000.

I am trying to rack the focus tube all the way in to the ZERO mark, and then tell NINA it’s at ZERO?

Alternatively, my focus point is around the 6 mark on the focus tube. I’d like to tell NINA that the mark SIX is at 30,000?

How can I do that?

Also, I keep getting multiple beeps when I am manually moving the focuser using ZWO’s hand controller for the EAF. Is it trying to tell me I am doing something wrong?

Here’s how I was trying to set up the backlash.

In NINA, I set the AF step to 20.

I moved the focuser using the COARSE button in one direction. That moves the focuser by 100 steps in one direction. (5x20)

I then used the fine button in the opposite direction and visually observed for any movement. Each click is 20/2, so 10 steps.

I was surprised to see that there was no movement until I pressed 19 times. That’s a backlash of 190?

That’s very high?

It’s brand new and the newer 5v one?

And it seems it works overall in one direction, but when I start testing in the opposite direction, it does not move at all?

3 hours ago, Jonny_H said:

Sorry, I've only just seen this.

Here's a photo of mine. I've just used the stock bracket. It's only held on by one screw but it seems secure enough. 

I can't actually remember where I found the instructions but they were ZWO ones specifically for the Esprit 100ED.

 

Many thanks

I managed to install it using the Takahashi bracket.

I used the 2 outermost screws on the focuser.

Your setup is interesting?

Where is that single bolt you used anchored?

It seems it is BEYOND the focuser?

Would appreciate if someone can post a pic of the underside of their Esprit 100ED focuser showing how they fixed the ZWO's bracket?

I have both the ZWO standard and the ZWO Takahashi brackets.

I recall I read somewhere NOT to mess with the 4 screws on the underside of the focuser?

Many thanks

🍿..🍿

🙂

9 hours ago, Oldfort said:

On the C8 the front and back fasteners are 8-32.  For the edge 11, it's hard to tell from the photos, but I remeber being surprised to find all the holes were the same in my C8 (except those holding the end parts to the tube).

 

I have found this gauge quite useful (even though it's not very robust) and cheap.  It has holes for the diameters ar well as the thread sizes, metric and imperial.

https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-4-piece-universal-thread-gauge-set-102551

My gauge plates arrived today.

I think I ordered wrong ones, as it says DRILL GAUGE, and does not have the same designations like the one you advised. Guess I will also order the one from Aximinstertools. The plates I received do not have the #6, #8, #10 etc designations, but rather ALL fractions for the IMPERIAL sizes.

I need your advise regarding judging the diameter of a bolt using these plate gauges.

Should the bolt FREELY go through a hole for the correct size, or should it SCREW into the correct hole?

58 minutes ago, Oldfort said:

On the C8 the front and back fasteners are 8-32.  For the edge 11, it's hard to tell from the photos, but I remeber being surprised to find all the holes were the same in my C8 (except those holding the end parts to the tube).

 

I have found this gauge quite useful (even though it's not very robust) and cheap.  It has holes for the diameters ar well as the thread sizes, metric and imperial.

https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-4-piece-universal-thread-gauge-set-102551

A very similar one is in the post already on its way.

31 minutes ago, Oldfort said:

On the C8, the fasteners are 8-32.  The edge 11 looks the same.
There are a few suppliers in the UK for Imperial sizes, eg Accu and Westfield fasteners. 

oh..seems we are getting somewhere!!

So it seems my Imperial gauge works!?

But I think that #8-32 are only the FRONT ones, as the Back ones look like they have a COARSER THREAD PITCH??

Have a look at the pic above where I took a close up of the Philips screws that were in the OTA.

The back ones certainly look like they have a coarser pitch compared to the front ones?

On 04/12/2021 at 17:01, JamesF said:

In that case I'd suggest trying #10-24 UNC bolts.  They're available on ebay for a pound or three in small pack sizes, so if it isn't the right size you shouldn't have wasted too much cash.

James

Indeed, I now have a bunch of #10-24 bolts, 50 to be exact, and NONE of them fit any of the 4 holes?!

I have just ordered another bunch of #8-32 bolts to try at the FRONT end of the OTA

On 04/12/2021 at 17:01, JamesF said:

In that case I'd suggest trying #10-24 UNC bolts.  They're available on ebay for a pound or three in small pack sizes, so if it isn't the right size you shouldn't have wasted too much cash.

James

On 04/12/2021 at 17:41, inFINNity Deck said:

That is just to avoid that we get bored too soon... 😉

Nicolàs

Good morning James and Nicolas

It seems my issues continue!

Based on our conversation here on this thread, I ordered a bunch of  UNC #10-24 socket cap bolts on Ebay. I ordered 5 different lengths, ranging from under 1/2 an inch all the way to one inch. ALL BLACK to avoid reflections.

Unfortunately, NONE of them screw in completely!!?? They all screw about 3 turns, and then stop.

Very frustrating.

Well, I then ordered an IMPERIAL thread gauge from Amazon (Its actually a BSW British Standard Whitworth) which is technically 55 degress, as opposed to UNC 60 degrees, but was told its almost exactly the same as a UNC thread gauge imported from the USA.

Anyways, they all measured correctly at 24 TPI?

So, I took out the 4 bolts that actually came with the scope, and I have some interesting findings to report:

1- The two screws at the BACK of the OTA near the mirror are indeed 24 TPI

2- The two screws at the FRONT of the OTA near the corrector plate are 32 TPI?!! They are NOT 24 TPI? 

Looking at the UNC charts, there are only TWO screw sizes with 32 TPI: #6-32 and #8-32

But, arent those two of a SMALLER diameter? The screws in the OTA have different TPI, but of different TPI.

Could the two FRONT holes on my OTA be metric?

1 hour ago, Stuart1971 said:

Edited message above with info from the NINA forum

Excellent!

Many thanks

Is it possible to export a saved profile in NINA to a new PC?

I am changing my imaging laptop, and have all my profiles saved in NINA, all details of the cameras, scopes, electronic focuser steps etc.

Is there a way to export the profiles, and import them into NINA on another laptop?

Thanks

6 minutes ago, JamesF said:

In that case I'd suggest trying #10-24 UNC bolts.  They're available on ebay for a pound or three in small pack sizes, so if it isn't the right size you shouldn't have wasted too much cash.

James

14 minutes ago, inFINNity Deck said:

BSW and UNC are more or less interchangeable, but not exactly (different rounding of the threads and minute difference in diameter). Being made of aluminium it is no problem inserting the wrong type in the holes. I noticed that on my C11 a variety of threads was used: UNC, BSW and metric, but I cannot say for sure which ones were original. As BSW are very hard to get at these sizes here in the Netherlands I decided to order UNC for all non-metric screws.

Nicolàs

 

Thanks Nicolas and James for your prompt help and response!!

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, why do telescope manufacturers confuse us so much!!!!

Isn't the hobby hard enough as is!!!!???

😀

49 minutes ago, JamesF said:

To the best of my knowledge UNC threads are specified by diameter and the number of threads per inch meaning that 3/8-16 would be a 3/8" diameter thread with 16 threads per inch, but I'm fairly sure that all threads of the same diameter have the same number of threads per inch so just giving the diameter (3/16" in this case) should be sufficient to get the correct thread.

That said, I thought all UNC threads smaller  than 1/4" diameter were given numbers and tpi rather than sizes, so I'm not sure what 3/16" might actually be if you wanted to buy some.  It might be #10-24, but don't quote me on that.

A 3/16" BSW thread should also fit, I think.  BSW and UNC threads are mostly interchangeable.

I hate non-metric threads

James

Thanks James

yes, agreed. Imperial threads are just stupid!!!

So, what do you think I should order?

Nicholas just mentions 3/16”. What should I order?

😂

1 hour ago, inFINNity Deck said:

Hi Oymd,

I have listed them here:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/666441-celestron-c11-edge-hd-bolts/?fromsearch=1

Nicolàs

And 3/16 UNC is the diameter? I can’t find that. Only 3/8-16 UNC. Is that the one?

I thought UNC bolts have a fraction followed by a number for measurements like: 1/4-20 UNC?

so, by 3/16, what do you mean?

3/16-20? Or 3/8-16 etc?

many thanks

50 minutes ago, inFINNity Deck said:

Hi Oymd,

I have listed them here:

https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/666441-celestron-c11-edge-hd-bolts/?fromsearch=1

Nicolàs

Thanks Nicolas

So, they seem to be all UNC?

In your post you mentioned:

dovetails: 3/16" UNC x 1/2", 3/4" and 1" (depending on which type of dovetail plate was installed)

I'm a bit confused?

There are 4 holes to attach a dovetail. Are they ALL 3/16" in size?

I assume the two FRONT ones near the corrector plate will be LONGER? so 3/4" for the front two holes and 1/2" for the rear holes? Obviously the length will depend on the dovetail and how far off it is from the hole. The dovetail I will be using is the Celestron Losmandy CGE orange dovetail.

Many thanks

Ossi

anyone?

I have an extra CGE losmandy dovetail that I am trying to fit to the TOP of my Edge 11.

There are four holes I can use on the top of the OTA. Does anyone know what bolt sizes I should use?

I think they are Metric M4? or are they for UNC Whitworth bolts?

I want to use SOCKET HEAD bolts, but the ones I have do not fit. Width seems to be fine, but I think the thread does not match?

Also, I think the FRONT ones at the corrector plate are LONGER?

I had a look at the ones on the BOTTOM, where I have a Primaluce Lab Dovetail with radius blocks. The FRONT ones are 20mm and the REAR ones are 15mm, but do not remember what thread type they are and not sure of size? I used an M4 Allen key to undo them, so I suppose they are M4?

Thanks

28 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

One of my robotic clients returned a defective new iOptron mount and, interestingly, the person at Telescope Service who dealt with the return said he wouldn't recommend iOptron mounts for robotic use. I can't give you any more information than that.

Olly

Thanks Olly

Time will tell how it will go. Early days. I'm still months away from setting up the remote obsy.

I appreciate that the CEM120EC will be no where near as good as a similar load capacity Paramount, 10Micron or AP, but I could not justify spending that sort of money on a hobby. A beautiful, fun and exciting hobby, but a hobby none the less.

6 minutes ago, jschella said:

Hi, 

 

I'm a little late to the party here, but I have the CEM120 (non-EC) version and would recommend it.  I run at a focal length of 2100 mm (an EdgeHD 800 at F10) and guide using a ZWO-L (large prism) OAG with an asi174mm guide camera. My seeing is typically around 1.8-2.0".  My guiding (PHD2) is almost always between 0.30-0.40" total rms.

For me, I am now seeing limited for imaging, so even if I could guide better, I would not see it in the images.  Therefore, I would be wasting money using encoders.  Yes they can get you down to 0.2" rms but this has no impact for me (or I think anyone with similar or worse seeing conditions.

The only I see to need encoders here would be to do unguided imaging.  And the only real reason I see for that is if you can't fit an OAG/ONAG within the backfocus of your telescope.

 

Jason

Its a bit too late for that...

I've already ordered and received the CEM120EC last week.

Just unboxed it for now. It's HUGE btw...