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About biondi

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    Star Forming

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    Albury, Hertfordshire
  1. Just to complete this discussion, the problem was with the serial port of the StarSeek module. All worked fine once replaced.
  2. Hi Craig, 1. Yes, new batteries. 2. It is but see below. 3. Yes. I tried to update the firmware of the module this evening, just in case it was related. Used the procedure documented here: http://www.telescope.com/assets/product_files/technotes/TN011_01-13.pdf I tried this on both my PC and Mac, neither could connect to the module to update the firmware. I don't have another cable, I presume the DB9-RJ11 that came with it is bespoke, could be wrong, don't know much about cabling. So this issue could be the cable or it could be the module itself of course and related to the bigger problem. Cheers, Matt
  3. Hi Craig, Yes, so in SkySafari I am using the Skywatcher Synscan and the Equatorial Goto (German) as you said, the readout rate is already set to 4 seconds. I can access the SkyFi settings webpage yes, not sure there's much to change apart from the serial port settings, these are currently set to: Network Client: Not Connected Baud: 9600 Parity: No Parity Data bits 8 bits Stop bits: 1 bit TCP port: 4030 Any thoughts? Thanks, Matt
  4. Hi Craig, when I try and connect it is able to connect to the wifi module but the module can't talk to the mount. So it doesn't connect.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Hi, I have a HEQ5 Pro with a Synscan and wanted to control this mount via Skysafari 4 on iOS so bought an Orion starseek wifi module (it says this config is compatible). Having followed the instructions, set the app up with the right mount details and checked out as much stuff online as I could I'm having problems however. The app can communicate with the module but the module isn't talking to my mount. So my Synscan is plugged into my mount as usual, I've tested this works and can control the mount. A cable then feeds from the Synscan to the Orion module, this cable has been tested on the Synscan by upgrading the firmware recently. Does anyone have this configuration and got it to work? Or have any ideas of something I could be missing? Thanks, Matt Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Hello everyone, I've done a bit of searching for this but it's not quite clear to me as yet. What I'd like to do is control my HEQ5 Pro via SkySafari 4. To do this I was hoping I could use a wifi module such as the Orion StarSeek Wi-Fi Telescope Control module, however I haven't been able to find anywhere that categorically says this is compatible with the HEQ5 Pro? I was wondering whether anything else has a similar set-up and what do they use? Many thanks and have a nice weekend! Matt
  7. Hi, Perhaps a silly question, but I've recently got hold of a TRF-2008 and I'm a bit confused by the instructions that came with it. I wasn't confused until I read it actually as I was assuming I just screw it in and off I go. However, have a look at the below screen-grab from the instructions: On one side of the reducer it says says 'Screw this end directly into your camera's T-Ring adapter'. On the other side it says, 'Insert this end directly into your focuser (do not use any extension tubes)'. You can see it says '56mm is the optimum focus distance', I don't understand this, can someone explain where/why this 56mm is necessary? Also, if the FR is screwed directly into the camera's T-Ring then where do I find this 56mm? Sorry for perhaps an obvious question, it might be apparent if I was able to get out and play but the weather is Rubbish cheers, Matt
  8. Cheers for the comments Gav - yeah I actually have a Bahtinov mask but I found it quite difficult to use at this focal length. It was fine when I had my C8 but not so easy now. I used BackyardEOS for focus but that's something I need to spend a bit more time on. I'm going to play with the levels again now Oh yes, I'm familiar with Olly's work! cheers, Matt
  9. Recently I've felt like I was trying to run before I could walk. So, I took off the guidescope, forgot about PHD and just went back to basics. Just guiding via the HEQ5 Pro managed about 25 60s exposures of Orion, ISO800. I took the same amount of darks. Although I thought my focus was ok (initial FWHM of <5) it looks a bit out, a little bit of star trailing and also the highlights seem quite blown. It was nice to get a result though and see a bit of colour. They were stacked in DSS and a small amount of processing (I don't know what I'm doing...) in PS. Any thoughts/tips (like how to make the stars look a little less blurry or anything else) please let me know! Thanks, Matt
  10. Well, I ordered a TRF-2008 for my Equinox 80 yesterday. So I don't actually have it yet but it's kind of a belated Christmas present to myself (since no-one else got me one) They're quite pricey so I've been putting it off for a bit!
  11. Hi, when I can work out how to upload images ( I no longer seem to have permission to attach a file or upload to my media ) I will post a link!
  12. Hi Steppenwolf, yes, I will get them together and try and upload them here..
  13. Hi 'glowingturnip', Yes, that's exactly what I see. Completely black apart from a handful of different coloured pixels, I can't see any evidence of amp glow to be honest. Did your issues cause the same problem I'm seeing, i.e. they take out all the detail in the lights? cheers, Matt
  14. Hi everyone, Last time I got out and managed to take a half decent set of lights and darks was back in September. Decent for me I should say here! The lights weren't perfect but for the first time I got a couple of 300s exposures plus some smaller exposures, about 15 in total. First time everything started to work for me. I took some Darks at the same time at the exposure lengths and also at different ISO's (as the lights were taken at different ISO's also -was still trying to work out the best settings). Anyway, I've tried to process the images a few times using a couple of different programs (to make sure it wasn't me using the software incorrectly) but I experience the same behavior. Whenever I combine the darks and then subtract them from the lights it removes pretty much everything in the light, apart from a handful of stars. I've tried with a master darks and just with one dark but the result is always the same. Just wondering if this is something obvious that I'm missing? I should say that I'm just talking about lights and darks here, I haven't done anything with the bias frames yet. Is this something that any other beginners have experienced? cheers, Matt
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