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DanWebster

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Everything posted by DanWebster

  1. I put them up a few months back, but they didn't sell so I reduced the prices.
  2. I have the following items for sale. Skywatcher EQ5 Tripod - £40 - SOLD This is the tripod and spreader plate. It's in good condition as it lived in doors when not in use but does have a few small paint chips as you'd expect. Skywatcher ST80 - £40 - SOLD This is the ST80 with tube rings, mounting foot and 45 degree prism diagonal included. It's in good condition and lives indoors when not in use. The lens has a few water marks from having dewed up on the cold nights, but there are no scratches. I'll try and get a good shot of the lens in the morning when the light is better. Skywatcher 200P - £80 - SOLD This is for the telescope and tube rings, and I can include a bahtinov mask if needed. The mirror is in decent condition but the tube has a small indentation near the top (see the pics). I don't believe it affects the performance, but I've lowered the price to reflect this. As these are large or fragile items, they're for collection in Sheffield (S10 postcode) or I can deliver them up to 30 miles for a little extra depending on distance. (up to £10)
  3. I've reduced the prices on the remaining items and given the mirror in the 200p a gentle clean - see the new pics. I can drive the items a short distance, maybe 10 miles from S10, if people are okay paying for petrol.
  4. I've added some shots of the 200p mirror, If you wanted to see something else, let me me know, and I'll upload some more photos this evening.
  5. I'm selling my telescope kit as it no longer gets any use, and it needs a new home. The large, heavy or fragile items are collection fro Sheffield. The eyepieces and Skywatcher 200P - £100 - Collection from Sheffield only The scope is in good condition, but does show signs of use with a few scuffs on the tube and an indentation. I think a tube ring might have been too tight at one point. The mirror has been gently cleaned and new images have been added. I can include some basic skywatcher plossl eyepieces if needed. 10mm and 25mm Skywatcher EQ5 Goto - £200 There are a few paint chips on the counterweights but the rest of the mount is fine and in full working condition. The handset doesn't work however, as the screen broke, so I'm including a USB to serial cable to hook it up to a PC. Collection from Sheffield only Skywatcher Star Travel 80 OTA - £60 This includes the 45 degree erecting prizm. Collection from Sheffield only Skywatcher Equinox 66 - £200 SOLD This comes with the flight case and includes the Antares SCT to 2" Female with twist lock and the field flattener, as well as the standard SCT to 1.25" adaptor. Collection from Sheffield only QHY5 II mono - £90 SOLD ADM Vixen type Side by Side Mounting System 7" - £80 SOLD Collection from Sheffield or posted for an extra £5 BST Starguider eyepieces 8mm, 18mm and 25mm - £30 each - collection from Sheffield or posted for an extra £5 - SOLD I'll consider offers for purchases of multiple items. Thanks for looking.
  6. I don't know how good your diy skills are, but if you fancy a challenge you could try and craft some curved spider vanes. That would probably be beyond me, but I thought I'd suggest it in case your the adventurous / crafty type. Perhaps some local company could make the m for you. This kind of thing.
  7. I use a couple of sheets of plain white card over the top of the scope and point at a bright, well lit, wall or ceiling. One sheet looks to have a bit of a grain, but a second sheet seems to sort this out. This is with a DSLR, and it's fine for my needs / level. Perhaps with your setup it may not be enough, but card is pretty cheap. I've just remembered that I used to use photographic printer paper. That shiny card you stick in a regular printer to get photo like prints, as that didn't seem to have any grain in it at all.
  8. What it means by grey and not white, is that the flats shouldn't be saturated. If you have an exposure that's too long, then every single pixel will be at maximum brightness and there'll be no variation across the image. Whereas you should be able to see any vignetting, finger prints, dust bunnies, etc. These will appear as slightly darker areas, but only if the image isn't saturated.
  9. I've yet to do it justice, but hopefully in a few weeks, when the earth moves my house out of the way, I'll get to have another go at imaging it myself.
  10. It doesn't matter if it's a popular target or not, it's still a great image.
  11. A great image, with an interesting story too. Thanks for sharing.
  12. Thanks. I did wonder if it might be some thing like that. I 'll have to experiment a little.
  13. On Sunday and Monday nights we had clear skies and a new(ish) moon, so I got to go out and have another crack at NGC 7000. I've ditched the old data that you see in the original post, which used 300s subs at ISO 1600 and I've gone with 120s subs, also at ISO 1600. The new image has 118 x 120s lights, 25 darks, 25 flats, 99 bias. I hope you like it. All comments are greatly appreciated, and if any one can suggest why the stars at the top of the image are not as round as those at the bottom, I'd be grateful. With regards to that, I do use a field flattener, but it's the top of the image that has been cropped. The bottom of the image is the left hand edge of the sensor and is fine, but the top of the image is about 1/4 of the way in from the right hand edge of the sensor, and has these issues. A large version can be found here where the issue can be seen more clearly. Thanks for looking Dan
  14. It's looking pretty good already, but I looking forward to seeing the final effort.
  15. Thanks. It was cold enough when I took those, gonna have to wrap up warmer, I don't want a cold. Thanks and good luck with the upgrades.
  16. I couldn't see what it is you're using to process your images, but I did a fairly aggressive noise reduction in paint.net, which has cleaned it up quite nicely I think.
  17. For a bit of fun I wanted to try and image M57 at 2m. This would mean using my SW200p with a 2x barlow for some F10 action, and would be tracked by an EQ5 Goto. In order to keep weight down, there would be no guiding. The camera would be a standard, uncooled Canon 1100D at ISO 1600. How bad could it be? I had to keep the subs down to 20 seconds for the stars to remain mostly round, but I managed to take 120 of them before it got too late. 30 darks, 30 flats and 99 bias round off the stacking paramters, but DSS would only let me keep 70 of the subs, and even less when I tried x2 or x3 drizzle. The best effort I managed was with no drizzle and using 70 x 20s subs. It was stretched in DSS, with a little extra work in Paint.net to improve colour, contrast and noise. I'm without pixinsight at the moment as the trial ran out, but I've been impressed with it so I'll definitely be picking it up when I've got some funds available. Any way here it is. It's not the sharpest of images, but given the difficulty of the setup, I'm reasonably pleased with it. So who else has decided to go against conventional wisdom and go for a target with a difficult setup? Dan
  18. A lovely image, and it got me wondering what the night sky would be like if we were to live there. Very bright is the answer apparently.
  19. I've only recently found this object and had no idea that it was a dark nebula in the foreground giving it the appearance it does. I just assumed it was an odd shape. Good to know, thanks for sharing, and a great image too.
  20. I have to lug everything in and out each time I setup, and I'd say it takes about 45 - 50 minutes if it goes well. I'm looking at tying all the cables together into a wiring loom, I need to get some cable ties or some fancy cable braid. I doubt it'll save much time, but every little bit helps, and will neaten everything up. And while it's not so heavy that I can't carry it all in one go, I now think that it's quicker when taken out as two separate parts (mount and scopes).
  21. In case any one is unsure what we're on about, it's this little thing and it's on the narrow part of the camera strap. Before you can slide it into place, you'll need to take off the view finder surround first, which just slides up and away. It does seem a little fiddly to get on and I can see why it's easily knocked off, so I think I'll follow suit and thread something through it to keep it safe.
  22. I was going to go with some black tape like Scott mentioned below, but if I can find that cover it sounds like it will be neater solution. Thanks for the suggestions.
  23. Now that the skies are darkening I've dusted off the telescope and had a crack the North America nebula. Full size version is here Taken with an Equinox 66 and a Canon 1100D, guided on an EQ5 19 x 300s lights, 24 darks, 15 flats, 50 bias. The trial version of Pixinsight ran out, so for now it's had a simple stretch and process in paint.net. It's a little fainter than perhaps I'd have liked, and a bit noisy too, but it's definitely there, so I'm really pleased. Hopefully I can add some more data in the coming weeks and months. Hope you like it too. Dan
  24. As you can see in this image I'm getting a massive amount of light bleed. I was taking some dark frames this morning, a couple at a time before turning the camera off and letting it cool down. Then, having already taken about half a dozen, they started showing the light bleed you see above. If I cover the view finder at the back of the camera I don't get the issue, so it looks like that's where the light gets in. I realised the view finder was pointing towards the window, so I just tried another shot with it pointing away, and that seems fine. This seems odd to me though, and I wondered if anyone else has had similar issues, or if any of you have a routine or trick that deals with these types of issues? Dan
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