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Everything posted by gost

  1. Thanks guys for your comments. I'm still learning how to process data from the UHC filter, narrowband imaging is new to me.
  2. Thanks. Yes, I use the Sky-Watcher flattener.
  3. Finally I got first light with my new telescope, a Sky-Watcher Esprit 100. First target was NGC 9662 and in total I got 3 hours and 30 minutes of data from one night. In total I got 42 subs with 300 seconds taken with my Nikon D810A and a Astronomik UHC clip-in filter, all mounted on my Sky-Watcher AZ-EQ5 GT. Guiding and exposures was all controlled with my ASIAir Pro. Stacking and calibration was done in PixInsight and final touches in Photoshop.
  4. I’ve been doing deep sky astrophotography on and off for twenty some years, mostly off recently, but now I’m really keen on getting back into this type of photography. I just ordered a SW Esprit 100 with a SW flattener to use with my Nikon D810A camera. Recent years I’ve just visited dark sites with my Nikon and tele lenses, but now I’m would like to start doing some narrowband photography from my back yard (Bortle 6). My plan is to buy a cooled dedicated astro camera later on, but for now I will start using my D810A. So, as for filters, I’ve been looking at the different Optolong filters and they look very interesting. I don’t want to invest to much money in a filter since my plan is to go mono (maybe next season) and will then buy narrowband filters for that camera. 1) As for clip-on options for Nikon full frame, it doesn’t seem to be an L-extreme or L-enhance, just the L-Pro, right and L-Pro doesn’t seem to be the right choice for NB photography in light polluted area. Since I have access to fast telephoto lenses (600mm f/4 and 300mm f/2.8) it would be nice to be able to use the filter together with these lenses. 2) As for 2” filters, would you recommend L-extreme or L-enhance for my setup and location? Thanks and clear skies! Göran
  5. Yesterday I got a tip from my dear friend Peter Rosén in Stockholm that Jupiters moons Io and Europa were up to something special. I got my gear ready and did this short animation. Its taken between 20:10:37 and 20:55:00 UTC using my 8" telescope with a 2.5x PowerMate and a Imaging Source DBK21 CCD-camera. As you can see from the still frame, at one moment the two moons were perfectly aligned at the right hand side of Jupiter. Thanks Peter for the tip!
  6. I just noticed I've installed the wrong firmware in my hand control. I've installed the latest firmware for the AllView hand control and not the SynScan v4 controller, could explain a thing or two :-)
  7. I have the same problem with mine. I set up the mount according to the manual with the telescope facing polaris. Then I selected the brightest star in the southern hemisphere. The hand control told me to slew to planet Jupiter since it was the brightest spot. Next I choose Polaris and the mount starts slewing and is completely off. After stopping it actually points the telescope downwards towards the ground, but it looks to be in the right direction. Tried it over and over again with different stars but when slewing to polaris I always get the same downwards result. Any suggestions?
  8. One of my favorite areas in the night sky, the Orion Constellation. This is the lower half of the constellation showing the Orion belt and the sword. The halo effect around the brightest stars is due to some mist in the air at the moment I took the picture. This halo effect also caused the difference in star colors to be more prominent which I think is very interesting to see. Images stacked and calibrated in PixInsight and final processing done in Photoshop CC. Nikon D810A - Nikkor 180mm f/2,8 AI-S @ f/4 10 min. (20 x 30 sec.) ISO 1600 https://instagram.com/Astrofotografen
  9. Wide field shot of our Milky Way behind a radar tower. The green color on the dome is some sort of color that reflects light. To my naked eye the dome didn't look lit at all. Four shot panorama with a Nikon D810A, Nikon AF-S 14-24mm f/2.8 @ 14mm f/4.0, 30 sec. ISO 3200.
  10. You're correct, I wasn't guiding and 60 sec subs gave me some trailing, that's why I went for 30 sec.
  11. Mike, this final image is somewhat cropped, here is an unedited single frame for you to evaluate, shot at f/4.0. The image is quite compressed with a low jpeg quality to reduce file size, but you should be able to evaluate the star quality. I did some tests at f/2.0 and f/2.8 but I didn't nail the focus on them so I have to redo them. I also did a test at f/5.6 and then the stars looked really good even in the corners on the D810A.
  12. Thanks guys for your kind words.
  13. Yes, tracking was done with my Celestron CGEM mount.
  14. This is a 45 minutes exposure (90 x 30 sec, ISO 2200) using a Nikon D810A with a Nikon 200mm f/2.0 lens at f/4.0. I stacked the images in Pixinsight and then processed the final image in Photoshop. No darks, bias or flats was taken or used.
  15. Hi I just posted my Nikon D810A review on my blog http://blogg.astrofotografen.se/2015/05/nikon-d810a-review.html Thought some of you might be interested in reading it. /Göran
  16. Thanks for all your comments, we really appreciate it!
  17. Thanks everyone. Alexandra, it's a continuous sequence that is speeded up 5 times. Check my blog for more information on how I did it http://blogg.astrofotografen.se/2014/06/bts-sunset-with-sunspots.html
  18. Hi guys! Finally we (7 Swedish amateur astronomers) are done with a big joint project we started back in December in 2013. Together we have caught 560 images of Jupiter during 90 days and from all that we made our own flyby and close encounter with Jupiter. Below is a movie that explains how we did it and how it turned out. Enjoy!
  19. Yesterday I went out to shoot a sunset I've planed since last summer. This time of the year, the Sun passes right behind a big radar tower if you stand at the Swedish National Biathlon Arena in Östersund. The radar tower is located about 10 km away from the arena in a small village called Ås. I shoot the movie using my Lunt 80mm PST to capture the structures on the Sun. The timing was perfect and the Sun looked really nice since it was full of sunspots and big filaments.
  20. On April 23 I was out looking for the Lyrid Meteor Shower. While watching the sky I set my camera to take several long exposures to make this star trail image with the mountains as foreground. In total I took 80 shots with an exposure time of 30 seconds, so this stacked photo has a total exposure time of 40 minutes. While editing this photo I realized that I really miss the dark starry nights. The stars won't be visible until the beginning of August here in Östersund due to the bright summer nights.
  21. Thanks for your comments. I never look directly into the Sun when shooting. Perhaps this thread should be in the Imaging/Solar forum?
  22. Here's a photo I took on 24th of April showing a very strong 22° solar halo. Down to the left and right there is also a trace of the rare 46° halo. On top of the 22° you can also see an upper tangent arc. The image is a mosaic of 6 photos that was shot using a Nikon D800E and a Nikon 14-24/f2,8.
  23. It's actually a four panel mosaic.
  24. Thanks for your comments. Let us hope the sun will be active this summer with lots of exiting details.
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